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probably from a x-GI from the old army base. he probably married a local. or gave it away for some drugs!

has anyone out there swapped the original antenna on a camaro for a hidden antenna and welding /patching the old hole on the fender?

I'm thinking about doing this and was wondering who supplies the antenna that will be hidden from view?

thanks

nick p.

thanks guys.

This helps a ton and the link will be a great spot for me to grab some advise.

[or]

This might be a really stupid question but I have my camaro stripped to bare metal. Im in the procrss of "fixing" what needs to be fixed body wise.  My question is in reference the first primer that will go on the bare metal and inevetably the body work.

Im pretty sure Im going to go with an epoxy primer over bare metal and I was wondering if this initial primer can be block sanded ? This way I can continue to "fix" the low and high spots or should I immediatly use a high filler primer and then start block sanding?

My inital thoughts was to shoot the epoxy primer over bare metal and sand..then fix as necessay . Then shoot a high filler primer and sand again, fix spots and again as necessary.

then, finally shoot a primer/sealer and wet sand?? 

I guess my exact questions are: 1. Can I sand the first stage epoxy primer or should I wait to sand the high filler primers?

2. If at the sealer stage I find spots that need additional putty filler, can this beover the sealer primer just prior to taking it to the paint shop for the base coat?

I have read a ton of different articles but It gets confusing with so many different views?

thanks for the help..

nick p.

Sam,

I was thinking the exact same thing and I was going to purchase a welder. figured I can use it to do other stuff. BUT I get confused between MIG, MIG-flux core and all the other stuff.

I priced a flux core for under 300 and MIG for over 300 bucks but I see advertising for a MIG-Flux core thats cheap also??

whats the deal with a real MIG or a flux core/ MIG??

thanks

thanks for help.

All,

My camaro has really bad fake woodgrain cover over the lower passenger side dash that holds the glovebox door ..ect.ect. I want to do something about this but I have not seen any replacement parts for the glove box door or anyhting?

Any clue as to how I can restore this to standard interior black? I guess I need to strip the old fake woodgrain cover off of it and sand down but since I cant find replacemnt parts for this piece, Im affraid if I royally screw it up, Im stuck with crap ??

any hints. I did restore the instrument panel and it looks great, but along side of the fake woodgrain does not do the work any justice!

thanks,

NickP.

All,

My '69 camaro has original air but is in need of a rebuild. I was hoping on getting this thing (air) running by this summer (Texas). I was debating on a total new kit or piece by piece replacment?

I see several reproduction kits and several aftermarket upgrades out there which only confuse matters.

I wanted to keep the cost around $1000.

From what I can tell, the condenser is in good shape, the compressor is long gone, the evaporator core and poa valve is shot but the case is in very good condition. I have a small block and the heater works great if that means anything?

I was really hoping to get each part by part and rebuild it but I dowt want to spend the money only to realize the air quailty sucks or Im missing more key components that would jack up the overall cost of the project?

any help and or links to some good info will be much apprecialted. Texas summers come real fast !

nick P.

All,

I need to fill in several small holes around my drip channels , corners of the trunk drip channel ect. ect.

I really dont think I need any welding done to replace the sheet metel. I was going to attemp to do some simple metal work using the new metal rods available that are "supposed" to be easier to use than lead. Available by Eastwood.

has anyone ever done this type of metal work to fill in holes and any advise would be greatly appreciated.



Nick p.

thanks Rob,

I actually filled out the club form the other day and just need to send in the fee. This should help out a ton. I should have done this last year no doubt.

thanks,

Nick

All,

I have a 69 camaro I bought last year and now I'm at the point of needing it stripped, possible body work (who knows what lurks under that paint) and painted.

I was planning on stripping the paint and taking as much off the car myself as possible and then handing it over to a good body man for any work needed and eventually painting at the same place or by the same person??

I can't go crazy with spending but I have a good ideas of what I can and cant do and the level of paint I can afford.

Any help for the DFW area in references or anyone out there wanting to take on the job I 'm ready to start this project.

Thanks

Nick P.  Lewisville , Texas.

thanks guys, I called the dealer I purchased from and was told that there should have been a coupler to link the two lines (front to back) and to exclude the valve. But, the coupler was not in the box of lines and was a slip from the manufacturer. This is good news for me for sure. You know when you have been working on the project for so long you just need to get it going agian and one little problem stops you weekend after weekend..

thats me..

NP

okay..I did a disc brake conversion (front only) to include replacing all brake lines on my 69 camaro. I finally get through this after several weekends and the darn line that goes from the front to the back (two piece) and goes into that valve type thing mid way,will not seat and leaks every time I attempt to bleed the brakes. Ive tried everything to get the bolt and flare to seat and seal into this darn thing but its still leaks no matter what I do.

I cant even find the part on line (which I dont know the name of ).I cant find it in any part book or the complete disc set I have for origional camaro parts either?

does anyone out there have any idea on how I can get this new front brake line to seal into this junction piece that links the front to the back line?? so I can bleed these brakes and get on the road again..I'm going through withdrawl  its been so long since I've been in my car..

help.

nickp

Viking,

Thanks for th heads up. The pin was a bit of a pain but came off after I made sure it was only secured by a small clip. I broke out the spec manual I have. I got a dVD last year that has been the best 13 bucks I have spend so far... In terms of adjusting the rod, i'm gathering that the new rod will be simular as the old so all I have to do adjust form it.

how do you know how mush is too mush and it wont damage the booser?  I bought pre bent lines with the kit so hopfully that solves som line issues I'm sure to run across.

NP

thats what I figured but was not sure if there was somthing i was going to screw up.

thanks for the tip..

Nick p.