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I'll be doing the work myself as I've done 10DN and 10SI alternators before. Just for grins I tried an old 10SI rotor and found it to be almost identical dimensions to the 10DN rotor. Only difference I see is the 10SI rotor is maybe .015 inches longer than the 10DN. What I don't know is the wire turns difference between the two. I've also found my traditional alternator rebuild kit supplier "s-and-d-repair" (on EBay) to be able to supply me a new rotor. Scott

In preparing to rebuild my 37A 1100837 alternator out of my May 1969 Z/28 I find that the rotor hex drive is rounded out. Any suggestions as to finding a replacement? Thanks, Scott

Guess I'll try again to bring this to a concise close. The adapters I had made were successful at reducing the vibration issue to the point I have no remaining complaints (smooth up to 75 mph which is as fast as I've gone so far). I fought this issue for years and worked through bell housing alignment, harmonic damper, motor + transmission mounts, drive shaft, u-joint angle and probably more stuff than I can recall now. I discovered and fixed a bad rear bushing in the Muncie (thanks to 5speeds.com) a bad balance job from an engine shop now out of business, a misaligned bell housing (fixed with .007 inch offset dowels) and now the hub adapters. I undertook them because my alignment shop suggested them after rotating my wheels and finding that the vibration changed slightly with each wheel position but never went away. Then JohnZ suggested the road balance method used by shops with such balancers which helped a bit more. Now that the journey is over I just thought you all deserved a summary. CRG has been a simply awesome resource for me and my restoration of two 69Z's.

Just thought I'd close out this post. I had a set of hub centric adapters made per my own measurements after having a local tire shop balance my wheels/tires as John suggested. The balancing (road balancing as they called it) helped but not enough to satisfy me. The adapters worked wonderfully well. The adapters were made on a lathe from some heavy wall aluminum tubing I found at a local distributor.

I read the earlier thread about mounting Torque Thrust II's on a 67 z/28 but no source for adapters was given. I my case I have a 69 Z with TTII's made in the mid 90's. I've tried the use of conical lug nuts to achieve a better concentric fit and then switch over to the long necked lug nuts but it's quite hard to repeat that successfully. I've contacted numerous Wheel/Tire stores but no one (not even American Racing) offers concentric adapters for my wheels and car. My measurements indicate a 70.5mm ID with a 85.5mm OD and .25inch thick would be good. It seems that I'll have to have custom ones made, but before I do that I thought I'd ask this august body for any other suggestions. BTW, the tires and wheels have been professionally balanced and checked for roundness and that helped but just not enough. Up to 60 mph all is ok, but after that the vibration get's obnoxious. I also tried original YH wheels that when installed work perfectly. Thanks. 

For what it's worth, I have an 1969 Z/28 without a factory tach. It also has no console. Also have the chassis broadcast sheet, actually only about 60% of it has survived life under the back seat. The car is an 05A car built in LA. I've talked to the original selling dealer who confirmed for me that they typically ordered Z's for inventory as cheaply as possible thus my car came without most options.

I'm disassembling a 350 I've had in a bag for about 12 years. The motor has previously been rebuilt but had less than 1000 miles before I got it. The cam is a flat tappet hydraulic. Can anyone identify this cam? Cast into it are "I7  04" "1578 D8" and stamped into the end is "1944 0". There is yellow paint on part of the core diameter. Thanks.

Count me in for two.

I've tried to attach a photo I took in 2006 showing the sheet in readable condition, and one taken today (4/21/12). They look quite similar though by January of this year the actual sheet had darkened considerably from the 2006 photo. I didn't take a pic of the January condition, but it worried me enough that I had the "conservation process" performed. The car has been restored to original condition per the broadcast sheet with some details awaiting funds and discovery of correct parts. When I bought the car in 1995 or 6, it was in sad condition with lots of stuff missing. Fortunately, it had not been cut up though it had been in at least one serious wreck. The ownership history shows the car spent its entire life in the greater Portland area. I used NOS or reconditioned original and dated parts to reconstruct it and did much of the work myself. I live in Aloha, Oregon a western suburb of Portland.

To complete this story, I had Elizabeth Chambers, a document conservator with the Portland Art Museum, clean and preserve the brodcast sheet. Turned out well and cost $120. I learned about the damage acids from typical papers, envelopes and even photo storage sheets can do. So now the paperwork can survive another 50 years just like the car. Anyone needing similar document conservation in the Pacific Northwest should consider using Elizabeth. Her phone is 503-276-4216.

I've decided that I need to get the chassis broadcast sheet restored for my 69 Z/28 before it becomes totally unreadable. I took pictures of it a few years ago but I'd like to get the real document restored. Any recommendations as to who to use? I've spoken to one possible source ACA Paper Restoration in Devon, PA. They claim to have done this a few times and suggested an approximate cost of $250. Thanks much. 

Just exchanged emails with "Jay" regarding a motor he has for sale. He read the numbers off it to me and they aren't what I'm interest in but maybe someone here might be interested. Anyway, block is 3956618 dated B-17-9 and stamped V0220DZ. Vin is hard to read but looks to him like 3L?020220. Heads are 186's both dated B-11-9, Has 472 intake and 418 valve covers. he can be reached at jzlowrider@hotmail.com or 360-580-7313 (Washington state). He's asking $5K the complete running motor.

Thanks John. I presume from your answer that you can't tell which GM division made the car that this trans came out of.

I removed a T10 from my 1969 Z/28 when I bought it years ago and I finally decided to do something with it. Hope someone can help identify what it came in originally. The main case is marked "T10-1B", carries what I'm guessing is a date code of "G20-1" and is stamped "WE82-3" vertically behind the side cover. The input shaft is 10 splines with one groove while the output shaft is 16 splines. The tail shaft is dated 8-24-61. Thanks.

It's a 2-bolt block like the picture you sent. BTW here's a picture I just took. What looks like a crack near the middle oil hole is actually just a cob web. Thanks for all the knowledge and support this site provides!