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I've never seen those marks, owner added IMO. There should be a stamped identification number on flat part of the tail.  B1 is a good can to use nowadays.

I cant speak for the factory, but when I paint an engine, I have an old filter on there to keep paint off the O-ring sealing surface. Your pics look like every other engine painted

Time to revisit my post. Turns out the Crane adjustable vac can has been going bad for a while (totally dead now), causing me to advance the dist and increase the idle speed to compensate. Also found a cracked vac hose. So replaced the can with a B1 and fixed the hose.  Set timing to 4BTC, and running much better.  Just had some ping when it shifted to 4th and locked up (200r4) under hard acceleration. Replaced the stock mech advance springs with a stiffer set and all good now. Temp at thermo is 205, rad tank is 185.  I am happy with the performance now. 

I had a little side task when my anti-dieseling solenoid shorted and fried the fusible link.  Got that replaced and ordered NOS solenoid.  Still need to put that on and adjust the accel pump rod (QJet). 

I have been running for years with a 6 bladed clutch fan.  It actually really overheated with this setup last year (in stop and go show traffic and light did not come on).  But the main culprit was a cracked repro radiator cap.  Which also busted the radiator, which is why it got rebuilt.  Rebuilt by a local company who have been in business for 90 years (I think).  I have used them many times for Camaros and other cars.  I have no issue with their workmanship.

Richard, your fan spacer is NOT the stock 69 one inch version. Looks like 2 or 2.5 inch.  That is one of my main questions.  Should I ditch the number correct one and get a thicker one that puts the fan better in the shroud.

Next time I get a chance, I will re-check the tune and see if that helps.  I also have to find my other spacers.

     

Plugs are AC 43S, I put in 45S first, did not like those at all!

Just idiot lights, no clue if sender works.

Timing was set with vac plugged, normal procedure.  I keep having to raise idle speed, cause it does not like idling in hot weather.  No clue what it is now. Had to add an anti dieseling solenoid. I have not tuned it in a long time. Runs just fine, not counting the heat.

Carb is a numbers and dated qjet for a 69 SS 350/300 4 speed, ran rich right from Phil's shop. Opened it up and jets are stuck.  I had to replace the rods with bigger to cure the rich. No clue now, what is in there. Ran fine after that for many years, just hot IMO.

Right now car has a 200r4 (86 Monte SS) and 3:55 gears. Most of the time, engine is running below 2K.  At 65 mph I think its around 2500.  Not ideal for this engines power band, I know this.  That's why I want to get the 327 back in.


 

Byron, its the correct 1" 3927792 spacer as noted in the "cooling report".

David, correct factory 3 row rad (rad was re-cored in the spring). 50/50 green mix, Factory SB with PS accessories and factory style belts.   

Timing might be a bit advanced, slight ping when 200r4 locks up. Engine is a factory 350/300 HA (10.25 comp) with 488 points dist.  When I installed the engine (10 years ago), I did set the dist as best I could and limited the "all in" advance.

No sure about the thermostat, I reads 215 deg when I shot it with a IF gun. Probably a 180 deg version, should I try a 160 deg?

I hope I can get the original 327/210 engine back in the car this year, trying to break it in on a run stand currently.

I will be using the 4 blade fan setup for the 327.  I just wanted to make sure the fan is located in the correct spot since it was not in the shroud like I thought it should be. 

So, I have been running a 6 blade clutch fan in my 69 since I swapped engines (327/210 out, 350/300 HA in).  But it has always run on the hot side. Rebuilt radiator did not fix.  Fan blades were correctly half in/half out in the shroud.

So I decided to try the 4 blade fan, to see if it changes anything.  So this is all factory parts, 69 version fan, and correct 1" 3927792 spacer. 

It surprised me to find the the fan is no longer in the shroud.  It needs 1/2" or 3/4' more spacer to get halfway into the shroud.

Was this the was it was from the factory?

ps, still running hot.

 

Nice Pace!

With the actuator disconnected, does it close fully?  The factory put body shims between the rad support and headlight bracket (under the bolts) to adjust it.  I have not personally worked on this, just something I discovered long ago.

Yes, buckets are the same. As long as both are 69 versions.

Thanks Jim! So the mounting of the relay, is sideways or vertical a more common practice? 

I was hoping to see one on this post too

Too bad you were not able to get it.  Maybe you can direct the nephew to here for the straight info. thanks for the fun journey!

One more thing, if you get the car and have to replace anything, (DO NOT THROW ANYTHING AWAY!). 

Under dash pic is a good, power top wiring is there.

Engine pics also look good, smog is still there, PS cap is original, Radiator look orig, codes are stamped on the tanks to verify original ( https://www.camaros.org/coolingsystems.shtml). 

Chrome air cleaner top is factory, correct gas filter with 1/4" return line is correct, RS wiper motor with headlight washer valve (RS) is there, finned valve covers might be an add-on or part of engine dress up option, those need further research.

Engine has the motor mount recall brackets/cables. Only two thing stands out, the fan spacer looks too long, might be a replacement.  And carb springs look missing (might just be hiding).

Shame about the CE engine, Dealerships did replace quite a few engines under warranty at the time. 7 years later is surprising though.

POP info is here: https://www.camaros.org/numbers.shtml#POPCodes

1st line is the VIN, (LA vert, should match the VIN on the dash), C is for a Carter carb.

2nd line: T0121HA engine code matches a SS350/4 speed, all good there
           BS0117G is the rear, 3.31 posi, should match stamped numbers on pass axle tube), 2 is for Build month (Feb). 
3rd line: P9B01 trans (Muncie 4 speed, 69 model year, B month (Feb), 01 day of month.  Probably a M20 as no letter code after the 01. 1133 is for options (power steering, power brakes, any radio & disc brakes)
Bowtie was just a symbol used, all POPs had that.

Having a POP for an LA car (any 1st gen really!) is fantastic.  Proves what you have. You can use the trans and rear numbers to see if those parts are original too. 

One pic of the rocker is a good sign, but you would have to get car on the lift to really dig into it. If car has been stored in a good climate and you don't see any obvious rust behind wheels and under rocker, that is a very good sign.

One way to know if rockers are compromised on a vert is to see how doors open and close. Verts sagging will have very tight doors at the rear. If doors don't open or you have to pry them up to get them unlatched that is a bad sign.  Door hinges also sag, but there is a big different in hinge sag versus rocker sag.

But the question remains, why is this not in your garage yet?    
 

We have not talked about rust yet, right?  If rockers are rusted through, it's a big job.  If fairly solid and the drivetrain has life, 25 to 30+ for sure.