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I also need some console locating, I think I have to take apart my other 69's console to get it.  But once you locate the front bracket, you just use the lower section to locate the rivnuts.  Then you install the upper console and 4 speed plate with black shifter tube thing.  Then you can use the tube to locate the shifter hole.  That is what I will do when I am ready.

They may be more concerned about the original high dollar mounts & not see the bolts...Joe

Hoping this is the correct spot to ask some follow-up questions.

The engine mount FAQ www.camaros.org/engine.shtml#EngineMounting says 1969 302 and 350s used the "special" frame stands 507/508. Many posts discussing the ZL2 hood seal fitment on 302's need to have the correct stands, mounts, intake and carb for the seal to have the correct gap to work properly. Mismatch those parts and you have seals that are too tight or too loose. OK so far?

But the FAQ also says 507/508 were used on 350s.  I can see 350s for Pace Cars needing those stands as they all had ZL2 hoods.  But what about L65 350s?  And a non ZL2 SS350's?  Did they all receive the 507/508 stands?  Or did they get the "standard" V8 183/184 stands? 

While my SS350 (non ZL2 and Van Nuys June 69 strike build) may not be a valid data point, it did come with 183/184 stands.

Now back to bolts (which are not in the FAQ or in the judging book). 183/184 bolts are 3980716.  Pretty sure this is a 3 7/8" length grade 5 bolt originally, even though you cannot get this anymore.  AMK and other catalogs lists 3980716 as a grade 8 7/16-14 x 3 7/8 bolt (which really is a steering box bolt doing double duty).

But the AIM calls out bolt 3977984 as the bolt for the 507/508 stands. No reliable info on this bolt that I could find. 

But recently I researched motor mounts that fit the stands.  Anchor 2285 mounts fit the 183/184 stands with the 3980716 bolts.  Anchor 2283 mounts fit the 507/508 stands (listed on sites as applicable for 69 396) used in 302 and 350 small blocks. But the 3980716 bolt was too long IMO.  I found 7/16-14 grade 5 bolts in my boxes that are 3 1/2" and fit much better.

Not sure if 3977984 bolt is longer than the 3980716 bolt, or shorter (there would have to be some difference hence the different part #s and the Z28/A4 AIM page shows a spacer.

Anyone know?   

ps: the BB mount bolt is 3977980 which specs on it is also MIA.  7/16-14, but length is not showing and is not sold.  It also has a spacer with no length shown.  What do BB owners use?

Thanks

Looks original to me.

Link is gone from Ebay

In my pile of bolts, I have seen many markings, C, A, M, TR, etc.  But the lengths bring up a good question. While most are 1 1/8", the two with the engine hoist brackets need to be longer (1 1/4" I would say).

So did the engine get built with two bins of bolts and the workers knew to put long ones under the brackets?

And would they have the same head markings?

And when did shouldered bolts start happening?  The older engines have un-shouldered bolts I assume.

Then there is the A/C brackets.  When A/C was ordered, when the dress line install the intake brackets and did they replace the 1 1/8" bolts with longer ones?

thanks.   

I just found my box of spare spacers.  The 6 cyl spacer 3927794 is 1/2" longer.  So I put that on so the fan is closer to the shroud.  We will see how that works.  I also found a 2 1/2" spacer from a Monte I think. But I thought that was too long.

I vote 9 on both heads too

I've never seen those marks, owner added IMO. There should be a stamped identification number on flat part of the tail.  B1 is a good can to use nowadays.

I cant speak for the factory, but when I paint an engine, I have an old filter on there to keep paint off the O-ring sealing surface. Your pics look like every other engine painted

Time to revisit my post. Turns out the Crane adjustable vac can has been going bad for a while (totally dead now), causing me to advance the dist and increase the idle speed to compensate. Also found a cracked vac hose. So replaced the can with a B1 and fixed the hose.  Set timing to 4BTC, and running much better.  Just had some ping when it shifted to 4th and locked up (200r4) under hard acceleration. Replaced the stock mech advance springs with a stiffer set and all good now. Temp at thermo is 205, rad tank is 185.  I am happy with the performance now. 

I had a little side task when my anti-dieseling solenoid shorted and fried the fusible link.  Got that replaced and ordered NOS solenoid.  Still need to put that on and adjust the accel pump rod (QJet). 

I have been running for years with a 6 bladed clutch fan.  It actually really overheated with this setup last year (in stop and go show traffic and light did not come on).  But the main culprit was a cracked repro radiator cap.  Which also busted the radiator, which is why it got rebuilt.  Rebuilt by a local company who have been in business for 90 years (I think).  I have used them many times for Camaros and other cars.  I have no issue with their workmanship.

Richard, your fan spacer is NOT the stock 69 one inch version. Looks like 2 or 2.5 inch.  That is one of my main questions.  Should I ditch the number correct one and get a thicker one that puts the fan better in the shroud.

Next time I get a chance, I will re-check the tune and see if that helps.  I also have to find my other spacers.

     

Plugs are AC 43S, I put in 45S first, did not like those at all!

Just idiot lights, no clue if sender works.

Timing was set with vac plugged, normal procedure.  I keep having to raise idle speed, cause it does not like idling in hot weather.  No clue what it is now. Had to add an anti dieseling solenoid. I have not tuned it in a long time. Runs just fine, not counting the heat.

Carb is a numbers and dated qjet for a 69 SS 350/300 4 speed, ran rich right from Phil's shop. Opened it up and jets are stuck.  I had to replace the rods with bigger to cure the rich. No clue now, what is in there. Ran fine after that for many years, just hot IMO.

Right now car has a 200r4 (86 Monte SS) and 3:55 gears. Most of the time, engine is running below 2K.  At 65 mph I think its around 2500.  Not ideal for this engines power band, I know this.  That's why I want to get the 327 back in.


 

Byron, its the correct 1" 3927792 spacer as noted in the "cooling report".

David, correct factory 3 row rad (rad was re-cored in the spring). 50/50 green mix, Factory SB with PS accessories and factory style belts.   

Timing might be a bit advanced, slight ping when 200r4 locks up. Engine is a factory 350/300 HA (10.25 comp) with 488 points dist.  When I installed the engine (10 years ago), I did set the dist as best I could and limited the "all in" advance.

No sure about the thermostat, I reads 215 deg when I shot it with a IF gun. Probably a 180 deg version, should I try a 160 deg?

I hope I can get the original 327/210 engine back in the car this year, trying to break it in on a run stand currently.

I will be using the 4 blade fan setup for the 327.  I just wanted to make sure the fan is located in the correct spot since it was not in the shroud like I thought it should be. 

So, I have been running a 6 blade clutch fan in my 69 since I swapped engines (327/210 out, 350/300 HA in).  But it has always run on the hot side. Rebuilt radiator did not fix.  Fan blades were correctly half in/half out in the shroud.

So I decided to try the 4 blade fan, to see if it changes anything.  So this is all factory parts, 69 version fan, and correct 1" 3927792 spacer. 

It surprised me to find the the fan is no longer in the shroud.  It needs 1/2" or 3/4' more spacer to get halfway into the shroud.

Was this the was it was from the factory?

ps, still running hot.

 

Nice Pace!

With the actuator disconnected, does it close fully?  The factory put body shims between the rad support and headlight bracket (under the bolts) to adjust it.  I have not personally worked on this, just something I discovered long ago.