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Congrats!  And thank you to all the volunteers who had a steep learning tech curve!

Personally, #1: I would fix an original GM fender #2:pony up the $1500 for a NOS one, #3: only as a last resort, go with repro (but you will be breaking spot welds and doing a lot of cutting and filling to get it to fit IMO). 

That bracket is factory welded to the trunk/floor pan.  If your pans have been replaced, it might have been lost. I don't think it is reproed. Used market would be your only choice, sorry. 

Yes, filled with ATF and has a drilled cyl between springs to help with cowl shake on verts.  You need them, keep them and restore with car. Very expensive to replace as they are not reproduced and they are unique to car and year. 

A small cut-off wheel (dremel), can cut the metal flap and leave the shaft in place.  That is what I did. 

So, many years ago I downloaded searchable AIM and AMK catalog to use the part numbers cross reference list to identify bolts.  But now the AMK site is throwing errors on my malware scanner, so I cannot see the catalog link.  I wonder what is happening at AMK?

Tim, Never hear of a code starting with E.  Could it be a B?  A BT code is a 12 bolt with 3.55 gears. Have you determined the rear ration by rotating the tires?

Welcome David.  So based on the trim tag, the Camaro is a 1969 Pace Car replica, also known as a Z11.  Read about it here: http://www.camaros.org/69pacer.shtml

Basically a white SS/RS 350 or 396 convertible with orange stripes and orange houndstooth interior.  Most Pace cars were built in Norwood, but this one was built in Van Nuys plant. Pace cars bring pretty strong $$$, but like any other Camaro: condition, options, original drivetrain & rust repair will determine value.  So tell us more please.

I pulled both seats out of an MD drum master, no valves.  Next I will try a 310 BS master.

• ensure that you have the correct residual pressure valves in the master cylinder outlet ports.

Richard

Richard, so what does a factory residual pressure valve look like?  I pulled the brass seat out of an old drum master cyl (rear port) and there was nothing there!  Now I am confused.

Thx!  Yes, I inspect/clean/adjust them every spring.  And plan my stops.  Twice I had panic stops and the brakes lockup and fade quickly!  but I stay as alert as possible!

Another 2GV mystery: I have two 2GV carbs.  Exactly the same except the vent cover is slightly different.  One has a full cover, the other a cover with a cutout.  I looked at the CRG report  http://www.camaros.org/carb.shtml and the pics of 68 and 69 had the cutout, but the 67 was not in frame. ps, I have only one carb tag 7029110 CH from 68, but not sure which carb it came off of.

Funny!  I have thought about it, but with my Drum only rims, I would have to swap those out too. Unless I got the Right stuff 14" drum to disc kit.  Money, Money, Money

Thanks Richard!  Skinny spring is what I will use!

On the brakes, I pull off the drums every spring to give them a clean and adjust.  I will look into what you posted. thx

OK, for the carb springs, I have two candidates (after I found my bracket).

I skinny one and larger one.  Which is more correct? Thx

Kurt, btw, my car came with 4 drum non-power of course.  I added the power MC/booster for safety. Still does not stop as well as discs.  Oh well.