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So been doing a little more looking over on this car. Is there a way to check the body and frame for any sagging? Earlier I had mentioned that I thought there was a sag but in all reality, I think this may actually just be the doors sagging or misaligned. I've been reading and watching videos that the pins can go bad, and the door could just be hanging wrong.  Is it just as simple as referencing the Fisher body measurements from the floor to frame to check this? The driver side door is tight up top. Maybe 1/32nd gap. The bottom is id say close to 3/16s gap.  The passenger side door opens and closes a lot smoother than the driver side. Passenger door to quarter top gap is 1/8 and bottom is close to 1/4".

Basically what I'm trying to do is determine if I have any structural sagging issues. If I don't great, but if I do I would want to determine best steps on how to level her off while I go in and replace the pans and rockers is need be. The inner and outer rockers honestly look good from close up inspections. No holes, no bubbling. But the pans are gone.


Thanks, all of your guys input has been appreciated .

Alright fellas,

So the game plan is slowly coming together. I'm going to do most of the heavy lifting myself with help of some experienced vets (that I'm gonna pay on the side here and there). But I'll start uploading photos soon. The girl needs a floor pan, trunk pan and rear quarters. She's a convertible so my first goal is to check all existing chassis alignments. Determine if she's got some sag. The rockers look pretty good but we'll see once we get going in there. I opened the driver side door and she does close pretty decently however I think I see maybe 3 millimeter drop once the door is open. So I think I have a small sag.
Once I know if I have a sag, I'll level her out and weld in a jig to keep the body square and tight while I throw her up on a rotisserie or a tilt jig. Open to any suggestions on how to level the body out if sag is present.

My biggest worry is alignment on the body panels after I weld in new quarters etc. Is there any way to ensure getting a perfect fit? These are NOS quarters I have ready to replace the old ones. But same question for the floorpan etc.

So she's a 396. She still has some of the original paint on her and has black racing stripes. Yes I agree, it needs a serious jig for the convertible part. I may have just lucked out though. My uncle has a good friend who is a retired body shop mechanic. He does work on the side now and just finished restoring a 67 camaro coupe. I think we're going to tow it over there to his personal shop to do the major body work. Jig it up, and go to town on it. I'll pay him on the side for his skill but could be my best shot.

Thanks for the input. Yeah, I have seen the body jig and rotisserie. I know I could at the very least do a jig. Id have to measure out the garage to see if I could fit the rotisserie.  if I can, I'll probably try and price out some options. Such as pricing out the major body work to a shop vs the time and cost it would take me.  If I do it myself I'd really just want to make it fool proof, where I cant mess up the alignment of the car or pans, or prevent overheating the metal during welds etc.

Hey everyone, I just bought a 1968 Camaro convertible. It been one of my dream cars to buy. The poor girl is in pretty rough shape but she's savable. From my initial looks at it, it needs a new floor and trunk pan. I'm assuming while I'm in there I'll discover she'll need at least the inner rockers. The front and rear frame rails look to be in surprisingly decent condition. I have NOS quarters, and a new mint condition hood from another 68. She has never been restored before. I'm a big car guy and have worked on almost all my own car projects but I have not done a lot of bodywork. This is the one area I'm thinking about sending it to a shop to get restored for. Any thoughts or experiences on what kind of costs this would take? I would have a shop replace the floor pan, trunk pan and likely the inner rockers.

Thanks