Messages

Has anyone ever seen orange undercoating on a Camaro?  My '69 was originally a Connecticut car and came to Florida in 1974.  As best I can determine, this orange coating was installed before it came to FL.  The whole underside of the car has it, but it was brushed over with some sort of black coating later, probably to cover it up. It has chipped off everywhere, so you see a lot of orange spots, and I am in the process of trying to remove it.  It's hard to get off.  It has what appears to be a red basecoat, then a thick orange coating after that which is not flexible.  Stripper doesn't get it off, so far I have used a needle scaler and finally sanding.  Attached is a photo of one of the front wheel wells with it partially removed.  Just looking to see if anyone has ever seen it before or has any removal tips.   

Thanks for all your hard work and persistence to get back online.  You all were missed.   

I recently installed a Summit Ready to Run vacuum advance small cap distributor in my 69 Z28 because the large cap HEI didn't fit, and I didn't want to bend the firewall.  Even with that the 2 front spark plug wires (8.5 mm) were a tight fit with the air cleaner on but still worked.  I ordered their coil, (also had a big one previously) not too big and works great.  Photo attached.

Steve,
Thanks for the added detail.  I'm going to leave the current wiper arms on the car and just changed the rubber refills only which were readily available.  I did speak to the owner from 1976-78 and he did not change them (that he remembers).  The car was originally from Connecticut before it came to Florida in 1974, so it's certainly possible they were replaced. 

Thank you for the clarification, I saw the "wing/spoiler" on them and thought they may be original. 

Photo attached of the wiper blade on my 69 Z28.  Is it original? They have been on there since 1982 when I got the car, and I have replaced the rubber refills only.

The current heater core isn't original.  I wish it was, but in 1982 when I replaced it, I likely threw away the original Harrison core.   Back then, I had no idea about preserving original parts.  There is no brand marking on my old one.  Still open to feedback on any higher quality replacements that are available today. 

Thank you to Sauron327 for all the great info he sent me from Jody's.  I bought a dial indicator and did both the concentric and parallel runout checks and my bellhousing checked good.  The trans is back in and everything working well.  The dial indicator tests were not difficult to do, and there are several videos online showing how to do it.  Thanks to all for the great advice.

I am replacing the seals in my heater box and also want to replace the heater core.  I replaced it 42 years ago (it was leaking inside the car) when I got the car.  The existing core still looks good, but I didn't want to risk reusing the old one so ordered one from HBC.   I just got it, and it is much lighter in weight then the old one, plus the hose tube solder joints don't look that strong.  The 5/8 tube is bent at a different angle than the one I took out, so doesn't fit even with making the firewall hole a little larger.  My only option is to bend it and possibly to get a local radiator shop to strengthen the solder joints or return it and find a better fitting and higher quality unit.  I read 2 posts on another Camaro forum where the members had problems with the TSM branded core leaking, and that is what I got from HBC.  I have reviewed previous CRG posts, most are 5+ years old, and was hoping there may be new information available. I'm not impressed with the quality of this new core and am looking for recommendations from members where to find the best quality.   

To Sauron327, my personal email address is JST69Z28@gmail.com if you could send me Jody's .pdf files, much appreciated. 

At this point, I am going to get a dial indicator and try the concentric and parallel checks.  I have the time and want to learn that.   

Input shaft photo attached.  It looks OK, plus the new bearing fits well.  Feedback welcome. 

I want to do the best job possible and have no issue ordering a dial indicator and doing the most accurate checks.  I have had the car 42 years and the bellhousing alignment has never been checked.  This car is street driven only and never shifted hard.  Reviewing the CRG report, I see how to check for concentric alignment but there is no mention of the parallel check, and I want to do that, too.   It was mentioned Jody's Transmissions has a .pdf file on how to do the checks?   How can I get that?  I would be glad to call Jody and request it, and also buy parts from him.  Thanks for all the great info.

M20, and when I put one in 20 years ago the needle bearing was recommended to me at that time over the bushing, and reading the CRG report it also says to use the needle bearing.   

I removed the transmission in my 69 Z28 to replace seals and found the pilot bearing had failed.  See photo, the needles are mostly gone and it was dry.  I installed a new clutch 20 years ago and had no noticeable vibrations or any other problems.  I read the CRG bellhousing alignment report and any other posts I could find on the subject.  Is the bearing failure a common problem?  Should I look into purchasing the alignment tool to check?  I have never checked it.

I called Browell, and they are backordered for 2 weeks on the tool.  Cost is now $160, and they sell adjustable dowels for 36.80/pr.

Has anything changed in the past few years in the way of new tools or inspection processes that I should know about?  Any recommendations?  I do have a QuickJack to raise the car 1-2 feet, but for the most part will be on my back doing this.  Thanks for any advice.

Can you replace Muncie shift lever seals (in the side cover) in the car or does the transmission need to come out?  Mine drip oil.  I could not find any previous posts on this.  Thanks.

I installed the repro versions recently, worked fine.