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I have a 1968 RS/SS with these bias ply tires, the tires are at least 6 years old, does anyone have any technical data or recommendations on how often these tires should be replaced, externally the tires still appear to be in good condition.

Thx,
Jeff

Thankyou all,

I removed the plug in the second photo and verified via a borescope in the access hole, the pushrod remained in place and fuel pump lever is underneath the pushrod. The hacksaw blade method shown on YouTube actually worked!!!!

Fired her up today - yea!!!! Can't wait to give her a run.

Thx,
Jeff

Thankyou for the response,

So does it mean the fuel pump bolts must also be loosened/removed and fuel pump be reinstalled in order to do this? Also is an application of some sort of thick grease on the pushrod recommended to keep the pushrod in place?

The bolts installed on the fuel pump have a 9/16" head.

Thx,
Jeff

photo fuelpump2 added.

Hi CRG Experts,

This is a Towanda 396 that had a leaking fuel pump. I viewed some youtube videos and the car manual about how to go about the removal/install process.

Some of the videos mentioned installing a fuel pump fastener into the top hole of the engine block to hold the push rod between the camshaft and the fuel pump in place, unfortunately on this engine there is not enough clearance between the water pump outlet and the block to be able to do this on the upper threaded hole. Other videos suggested using a hacksaw blade to hold the pushrod in place before removing the fuel pump, installing new fuel pump without disturbing the position of the hacksaw blade, then once aligned removing the hacksaw blade just before snugging the bolts, which is the method I tried, unfortunately this is a blind installation with no visible means to tell if the pushrod remained in the proper position.

There are currently no fasteners in the 2 locations (see fuelpump1 photo) on the front of the block, and there are no signs of oil leakage from either fastener location. I'm not convinced these threads go through to the interior on this block to clamp the pushrod in place.

There is a plug directly below the fuel pump (see fuelpump2 photo) which may provide access to the pushrod from below as well in some fashion?

If the pushrod somehow dislodged from its proper location during removal/install, is there any harm in trying to crank the engine (I presume no fuel so no firing would occur), or could this cause internal damage to something?

Any/all advice would be greatly appreciated.

Thx,
Jeff

Hi CRG experts,

Voltage measurement at the coil is 12.52 volts, voltage measurement at the battery is 12.63 volts, a difference of 0.11 volts.

Does this mean this vehicle does or does not have a resistor in the ignition system?

Thx,
Jeff

Hello CRG experts,

I recently purchased a Pertronix Ignitor Electronic Ignition and corresponding Flame Thrower coil assembly. When reading through the installation instructions, they stated "Warning: Do not use with solid core spark plug wires; RFI suppression spark plug wires must be used.

It was not obvious to me via internet searches whether or not the plug wires I have (see subject line) meet the requirement of RFI vs. TV-R suppression.

Please advise if users with a Pertronics ignition setup have had to replace their TV-R suppression spark plug wires as well.

Thx,
Jeff

Hi CRG experts,

I need to purchase a replacement battery for my car. Looking for recommendations on the type of battery to install, I do not want to have corrosion issues as a result of using the wrong battery style. Car also sits for weeks at a time but plan to keep a trickle charger like a "Battery Tender" on it. Car has a 396 in it so it needs some power to start. Please provide recommended battery manufacturer(s) and model ID's.

Thx in advance for your help,

Jeff

Thx everyone, input shaft has 2 rings, and internal helical gears, not 17 degree straight cut, also counted 1st gear teeth, it's definitely an M20.

Thankyou for the response CRG experts, so is the consensus this case is authentic? There are no other markings of any kind anywhere else on this case.

Thx,
Jeff

VIN # stamping.

photo of assembly info.

Hi CRG experts,

I recently removed reportedly an M20 transmission from my 1968 Camaro and are trying to determine the authenticity of it.  1. With the "US PATENT NO 3088330", the last "0" is a different font size. 2. With the "GENERAL MOTORS CORP.", the "P" is also a noticeably different font size. 3. The assembly information is marked "P8A24c" where the "C" is in a lower case instead of upper case. Relative to item 3 I found via CRG info the "C" or M22 identifier production began 10/21/68 which is much later than the assembly date stamp identified. 4. In the casting circle there is no raised bumps and no number to indicate the week and month the housing was cast.

18L333116 is stamped onto the top surface of the case.

Please see attached photos.

Thx,
Jeff

Hello CRG experts,

I recently purchased a rebuilt Muncie 4 speed transmission and are reaching out to find out if there is any expert guidance on the break in process for it. Obviously the first step is to fill the transmission to the correct level with recommended lubricant.

1. Should the transmission be started in neutral and allowed to run for some period of time before trying to shift into any of the gears?

2. Is there an order of gear engagement (including reverse) which should be followed as part of the break in process?

3. When should the initial break in lubricant be changed out?

Thx,
Jeff

CRG experts please help, I can find little to no guidance from web sources or the camaro manual I have, the info is needed for a 396 setup with a new muncie 4 speed, Hayes clutch kit, and 168 tooth flywheel.