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Turns out that the ground to the rear console gauge mounting plate was not providing the correct ground, so a quick jumper solved the temp gauge and console lights issue and also got the fuel gauge to move.

Now the issue is I need to track down issue for constant full reading.

Thanks for the response William!

I will try to check that out, though not sure why the ignition switch position would matter to the light switch - looks like they would either work or not.  This one is also a RS which from a quick check, may be harder to find a console gauge switch for.  I got it from the second owner who had it since 1977 and said they were original, and the tach is in a correct carrier for a tach (versus a modified standard carrier) but that could have been changed.

I did not know the switches were different and the other 69 I've had since 1974 and modified many time (back in the day when we would swap engines anytime we could get a bigger one, etc.), has been running factory gauges and tach (from a junkyard) since 75, when I also dropped in a 396 and TH400 from a 70 Chevelle 396 SS, without any issues with any of the lights.

Hello,

I purchased a second 69 (original SS/RS 350 4 spd convertible) about a year ago and have been fixing little issues.  One thing I have not looked at yet and hoping someone may have encountered before and have insight into the place for me to look:

With the parking or headlights on, the console gauge lights are on with the ignition switch in the acc., off, and on positions, but go off in the run and start positions.

Since the lights work in some ignition switch positions it does not appear to be a ground issue, so I am gong to start looking for a short or other cause.

If anyone has encountered a similar situation I would appreciate hearing what a potential cause/fix for the same condition might be.

Thanks,

Dave

Hello,

I do not post much, but very frustrated and hope to save someone else from similar issues it you are considering EFI.  EFI sounds good, but don't.

After months of waiting to get the 69 Camaro I have had since 1974 back from work including the addition of a Holley Sniper Quad "upgrade", I am stuck without the car while it has been to three shops trying to figure out EFI issues.  I thought EFI would be great, allow for quick starts, easy warmup, etc. - instead I do not have anything and not much hope of a quick resolution.  Since it is not a numbers matching car (back when these cars were not old, we used to change motors any time a bigger one was available), I made a few improvements beyond what I did back in the day, and added A/C, etc.  Knowing what I know now, including seeing many issues and much angst about Holley EFI systems on line, I should have avoided switching from a simple Rochester 4 bbl carb.

I had been told it was either the electronic "Breakerless" ignition (which in my general experience either works or doesn't), the Holley unit itself, wiring, programing, etc. - now the latest shop is saying RF interference and they are talking to Holley.  This is apparently (from the amount of online chatter) a significant issue for Holley EFI system, especially Sniper units, and can be from all the normal components: plugs, plug wires, cap, rotor, coil, etc., etc.

Fortunately I now do also have another 69 Camaro (convertible with original drivetrain) and 78 Vette and while it takes a little time to warm them up to be able to idle on their own when it is cold, at least I can drive them.

So bottom line unless you have some other very compelling reason to switch to EFI - stay with what you know, straightforward carburation that might run rough, but still run, and worst case, if it cannot be cleaned and tuned, can be overhauled/rebuilt.

This is an old thread, but for info: GM part history shows that GMPN 3957936 was dispositioned to "USE 3957935" in December 1981.