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Upgraded suspensions improve handling, comfort and ride quality. You'll get better info at Team Camaro or Pro Touring sites. Try Pozzi Racing as well. I would not buy repro "factory" a-arm replacements. I'd source nice, used original  parts and rebuild them myself. Plenty are available.

Thanks for the feedback. Do you think the aftermarket "factory" a-arms are inferior to the originals?

I've ordered a new set of stamped A-arms for the 69. I was planning on blasting, painting and replacing the ball joints in the stock arms. However, I can get new ones complete with the ball joints for only $370 with poly bushings.

I restore the originals at some point in the future if I ever wanted to go back.  I prefer the stock look and I don't have any interest in making a pro touring machine at this point. However, it's difficult not to lust over a set of tubular arms and coil-overs.

Is there a big advantage to the tubular arms? The ability to adjust the shocks with coil-overs would be nice to have.

I'm replacing the old stock coil springs with a fresh set (standard ride height).  I bought a coil spring compressor from Summit.  Seems good.  I was able to get the coil spring compressed and removed.  However, the compressor does not fit through the shock opening in the A-arm.  I had to fully disassemble the compressor, stuff it in the opening and re-assemble while it was inside the spring.  That seems wrong.

Here is the one I bought:

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/wmr-w89311/overview/

I might try this one:

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/clp-csc/overview/

I replaced the coils on an El Camino years ago but I don't ever remembering the need to dismantle the compressor to get it to fit through the shock hole.

I only have a 3 stall garage and I need to use one stall this winter. I was thinking's about renting a storage locker for $95/mo.  Or, I think I can shove the Camaro against the wall using GoJak and that might solve my space issue issue for now.  Any experience? I keep hearing the copycat units are junk. The GoJak in a 4-pack is $900! 

I gave you the link to read about trim tags earlier in this thread.

Yes you did - thank you.  I went back and re-read.  The third digit has no meaning.  Thanks for walking the blind squirrel to the nut.

I guess I find it difficult to spend $64k on a car that is not correct.  I'm fine with the tribute portion.  That seems nicely done.  However, I'd be very concerned for future resale with a car that has a mismatched VIN and Cowl tag.  Maybe it's no big deal.  Maybe some buyers don't care.  I'm not looking to buy it, I'm just curious if the market demand will pay the price for the mismatch.

You are mistaken. The tag appears to match and be original. All body tag style numbers start with 124 regardless of VIN and all body numbers differ from VIN.

Okay - that's where I got it wrong.  I was looking for a 123 trim tag.

I guess I find it difficult to spend $64k on a car that is not correct.  I'm fine with the tribute portion.  That seems nicely done.  However, I'd be very concerned for future resale with a car that has a mismatched VIN and Cowl tag.  Maybe it's no big deal.  Maybe some buyers don't care.  I'm not looking to buy it, I'm just curious if the market demand will pay the price for the mismatch.

Is it generally okay to replace the cowl tag with a known incorrect tag as long as it's disclosed?  I guess when I noticed a 6cyl car with an 8cyl tag, that seemed fishy.

This seems odd.  The VIN and cowl tag disagree on this expensive unit.


https://www.hanksters.com/1969-Chevrolet-Camaro/Used-AmericanMuscleCar/DaytonaBeach-FL/12782763/Details.aspx

I installed new Prothane poly bushings in the leafsprings and I now have buyers remorse. I greased the bushings exactly like was written in the instructions. Even with my best effort, the rear shackles area creaking like an old rocking chair. I called Prothane and the recommendation I tightened the bolts more so it bottoms out on the inner sleeve. I cranked it as tight as I could with a wrench and creaking was slightly less. I'm thinking about going back to rubber. Anyone have any experience either way?

Good point on intake gasket.  I will re-torque to be certain.

Great feedback! Thank you. 

- Running the stock exhaust manifolds. 
- The heat-riser valve replaced with a straight-through adapter.
- Standard volume/standard pressure oil pump because I'm running a stock 5qt oil pan.
- Engine was carefully broken-in by the engine builder himself running the car at 2000-2500RPM for 20-30 minutes using SAE 30 dinosaur break-in oil.

I watched the YouTube videos of the poor quality out-of-the-box fully assembled heads.  Seems like most issues are poor valve seats.  With the good leak down results, the valves seem to be sealing as expected for me.  I don't get any smoke on start-up, so I'm not sure the valve seal are an issue but reasonably easy to replace.  Of course, the guides could be an issue.  Good feedback on the oil accumulation.  I will take a peek at the drainage passages.     

Running a brand new ZZ4 GM Performance dual plane aluminum intake manifold 10185063.
Running brand new Trick Flow DHC 175 Aluminum Heads TFS-30210006.

I contacted Trick Flow and asked their opinion but I have not yet received a reply.  I was going to start by replacing the valve seals.  Out-of-box defects exists, but it *should* be less probable, right? 

Here is the engine FWIW.  I wanted the cast iron look:

The entire leak down test is complete:
Cylinder 1 - 3%
Cylinder 2 - 4%
Cylinder 3 - 4%
Cylinder 4 - 4%
Cylinder 5 - 2%
Cylinder 6 - 3%
Cylinder 7 - 3%
Cylinder 8 - 3%

Those numbers seem good. All leakage was coming from valve cover breather/pcv (crankcase). I did not hear anything in the exhaust or carb.

Oh, this is a 4-speed car.

#8 has the brake booster attached for vacuum. I wonder if a faulty brake booster check valve would cause issues? The brakes seem fine.

I had a leakdown test performed on cylinder 8.  Getting 97% on the black plug cylinder - I think that is great for a engine still in the break-in period (maybe I'm wrong).  I tested #2 cylinder and I'm getting 96%.  Does that rule-out piston, rings, valves and head gasket?  Maybe bad valve seal is still a potential root cause?