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The chart has a column headed 'End VIN'. For May at NOR, that's N650323. For June, N664008. That means all N653xxx VINs were built in June.

As cars were not built in exact VIN order, there can be slight overlap when Chevrolet recorded the 'last VIN of the month'. For example, N663998 may have built in July.

BINGO! That's what I missed, the VIN listed is the last VIN.  All makes sense now, thanks William.

Jim

Thanks Byron.  I get that there might be some overlap from end of May to beginning of June, but with a 653xxxx VIN, that should land it in the 1st half of May?  My deduction is based an around 3,300 units per week.

Recently looked at a 69 NOR Camaro with a 9N653XXX VIN tag and it had an 06A on the firewall tag.  Maybe I'm reading it wrong but the VIN sequence on this site lists that VIN as a May build month car.  Am I seeing this correctly?

My old 09D COPO is body number 108154.  It was final assembled on 9/26/69

When was your Z built (month/year)?  Spoilers were standard after April 69? on Z28 models.  D80 on the data plate? My COPO was a non-spoiler car originally.  Front/rear spoilers added by 1971.  The guy that added them installed the spoiler support rods on the front so it had a hole in the front subframe.

weeks 36 and 37 for an 09D

I can't find the specific one back that I used, but I do recall it wasn't the exact box I had.  Saginaw's design, rebuild, adjustment for manual boxes were similar across multiple applications.

I rebuilt my manual steering box and adjusted it out of the car to get it close then made small final adjustment after re-install.  It's really important to get it "centered" in the travel. 
Out of the car the force required to rotate the input should noticeably get higher when you approach the center of travel, with the highest resistance at dead center of travel.  Once back in the car, I loosed the nut and adjusted the bolt just slightly to stiffen it up to my liking.  Since you're not sure how it got loose, I would pull it and try to reset it on the bench, then re-install and see if it got better. There are some good Youtube videos on rebuilding and setting these Saginaw units.

I believe that is correct.  When I stripped my low mile fender washers, you could see the pattern of black dip-painting....one spot had thick paint that virtually filled the edge of the recess on each one

As far as I know, all originals were upside down (weak) and on lower LH side as viewed from the front of the car.

Great story, congrats on filling in the gaps!

Curious about the block pad....I thought those were masked to not hide the stamping with paint or is that only when the VIN is on the pad?

Maybe they had a special tool to install the push in style - based on my experience, the giant PITA of getting the push-in style installed would be enough reason to change to bolt-in style.  Bolt in add complexity, but if it reduces time, it might have driven a change.

Mine is an X44 COPO BE rear.

Just a pure speculative theory on this topic.  We have the change document that notes the move to bolt in style.  For late build cars (past normal production end date of July time frame), they may have received old style or a mix due to limited availability of new style bolt in.  I wonder what the design is of the 1970 Camaro snubber.....same bolt in, different bolt in, or push in?

My 09D (late) Norwood has the holes for the screw in style but had a push in style installed when I took it apart for restoration.  Every bumper on the car was original when I took it apart.  This one ws one of the few on the car I couldn't save - it was rock hard and had to be destroyed to get it out.