Looking at this car. Just want to make sure it is the real deal
Painted P T B ? First red flag.
VT
Red flag for what? The previous owner had bad taste?
Amateur resto at best. From the small picture:
-Body tag has almost certainly been off the car. It should be painted; may be repro.
-Painted-over bushing and mounting screw on wiper motor.
-Missing hood to cowl seal.
-Taped paint line across top of cowl.
Proceed cautiously.
Quote from: 69-Z10 on February 06, 2010, 11:32:30 AM
Red flag for what? The previous owner had bad taste?
Because they were rubber stamped, and not poorly hand painted..
Quote from: BlackoutSteve on February 06, 2010, 08:24:43 PM
Quote from: 69-Z10 on February 06, 2010, 11:32:30 AM
Red flag for what? The previous owner had bad taste?
Because they were rubber stamped, and not poorly hand painted..
Quote from: BlackoutSteve on February 06, 2010, 08:24:43 PM
Quote from: 69-Z10 on February 06, 2010, 11:32:30 AM
Red flag for what? The previous owner had bad taste?
Because they were rubber stamped, and not poorly hand painted..
Not worried about that just the trim tag. I know there are restoration issues which I can address. I just want to make sure the car is legit.
The pic of the tag could be better.
IMO.....it is real.
Could be your Yellow/Yellow you have been looking for Danny!
lcmc,
There is a long list of things to check to help validate if the car as an original X33 Z28, but the list is still not an absolute way to verify the car's origin. Having the original paperwork, original sales documentation, P.O.P, etc. is a big help. If the car still happens to have it original "DW" code tire pressure sticker #3961733 would be a positive sign. Obviously, if this is a numbers matching Z28, carefully document the VIN no. and date codes of the engine, transmission and rear axle date code.
If you have a copy of the 1969 Assembly Manual, study the RS option and where the vacuum hoses route thru the firewall, assuming the car has the RS option. Also, study in the manual where the Muncie 4-Speed speedometer cable enters the firewall vs. where the automatic trans speedo cable was routing, along with the cable retaining clips on the floor pan. These are two quick clues to check out that may help, but these two items can still be made to look original to the car, or carried over from a donor car.
There are many other clues to look for: a single 3/8" fuel line, multi-leaf rear springs, the reinforcement plate welded to the outside of the driver's side rear frame for the duel exhaust hanger, just to mention a few.
I would also recommend that you buy the book, The Definitive 1969 Camaro Z28 – SS396 Fact Book, by Jerry MacNeish. It contains many good facts and pictures of original Z28 component that can be used as a guide. Also, CRG is a great site to study up on what was original on 1st Gen Z28.
Good luck with your decision.
Quote from: Dave69x33 on February 06, 2010, 09:56:11 PM
lcmc,
There is a long list of things to check to help validate if the car as an original X33 Z28, but the list is still not an absolute way to verify the car's origin. Having the original paperwork, original sales documentation, P.O.P, etc. is a big help. If the car still happens to have it original “DW” code tire pressure sticker #3961733 would be a positive sign. Obviously, if this is a numbers matching Z28, carefully document the VIN no. and date codes of the engine, transmission and rear axle date code.
If you have a copy of the 1969 Assembly Manual, study the RS option and where the vacuum hoses route thru the firewall, assuming the car has the RS option. Also, study in the manual where the Muncie 4-Speed speedometer cable enters the firewall vs. where the automatic trans speedo cable was routing, along with the cable retaining clips on the floor pan. These are two quick clues to check out that may help, but these two items can still be made to look original to the car, or carried over from a donor car.
There are many other clues to look for: a single 3/8” fuel line, multi-leaf rear springs, the reinforcement plate welded to the outside of the driver’s side rear frame for the duel exhaust hanger, just to mention a few.
I would also recommend that you buy the book, The Definitive 1969 Camaro Z28 – SS396 Fact Book, by Jerry MacNeish. It contains many good facts and pictures of original Z28 component that can be used as a guide. Also, CRG is a great site to study up on what was original on 1st Gen Z28.
Good luck with your decision.
It is supposedly a numbers matching car. Waiting to see pics of the pad. I was just suspicious of the tag.
Quote from: jl8dale on February 06, 2010, 09:50:22 PM
The pic of the tag could be better.
IMO.....it is real.
Could be your Yellow/Yellow you have been looking for Danny!
Could be. I got an AAR Cuda I need to sell first. Gotta go back to my bow ties.
I just remembered another quick clue. If the car was originally a "D80" spoiler car, one of the two trunk lid torsion bars will be larger than the other. This was to help with the added weight from the spoiler. See if they appear to be original to the car.
Can you say where this car is located?
Any documentation?
Quote from: jl8dale on February 06, 2010, 11:01:09 PM
Can you say where this car is located?
Any documentation?
Located in Florida. No docs.
Quote from: Dave69x33 on February 06, 2010, 10:24:47 PM
I just remembered another quick clue. If the car was originally a “D80” spoiler car, one of the two trunk lid torsion bars will be larger than the other. This was to help with the added weight from the spoiler.
I added all these ID features to the site a while back.
http://www.camaros.org/options.shtml#id