Hello,
Everything is new (vacuum) and my headlight doors do not fully close, how to I adjust that? They will close if not connected to the rod of the Actuator. I have the vacuum cans all the way back but I am still need about 3/4" more to get both doors fully closed. It seems like the rod of the actuator is too long? Is there any adjustment?
Thanks for any help you can give! - Joe
here are some pics, the right passenger is fine, it is the drivers side that is about 1/2 inch from closing. The actuator is all the way pushed in. Cant find any more adjustment for it. I did scoot the canister as far back as I could on the bracket.
Nice Pace!
With the actuator disconnected, does it close fully? The factory put body shims between the rad support and headlight bracket (under the bolts) to adjust it. I have not personally worked on this, just something I discovered long ago.
Is the hinge on the cover stopping it from closing? If not, loosen the bolts of the actuator pivot & close it by hand. Tighten the 2 pivot bolts. Try that.....Joe
I have shimmed it at the radiator core support, I have loosened the bolts and closed it as far as I could and re tightened them. It will close all the way if the actuator is disconnected. It is like the actuator rod is too long?
My Z11 has this EXACT same problem.- Dang it.
As a side note: I was reading Z22/B3 & I never knew we are suppose to Glue [18] the chrome Slit RS headlight grill [12] to the Door [13] !
I may have just found a very annoying source rattle when driving?
I ordered a new bracket and different canister to see if that will fix it. I have read that some people actually shorten the rod of the canister and reattach the clevis pin ring. I have also read that the rear bracket can be modified. I hope I do not have to do this! We will see! Thanks for the info and discussion!
Any other ideas from the community?
Is the inner fender orginal? It could be the actuator mount bracket bolts are not drilled in the correct location in the inner fender.
it is AMD inner fender, with CHQ brace
Update....So I got the new canister and inner fender brace and no difference. I actually was ready to shorten the rod on the canister and realized when I took off the boot that would not make a difference as it was all the way pushed in hitting on the clevis pin apparatus. So I decided the easiest way to fix my issue was to use a dermal the weld on the bottom of the bell crank and rotate the bottom attachment to the actuator just a small amount. it is a D shaft so you will have to use the Dremel to round it out a little. Then rotate the direction you need to get the door to close. I tacked it in the car, then took it out and re welded it in the correct clocked position. Fixed it in 3 hours Vs fighting it for the 20 hours I did before that. Hope this helps someone! I will post some pics soon!
So, Are you "lessening" the relative angle between the bell crank arms?
by means of sectioning the canister arm and rewelding to the existing stub offset closing the angle a bit to obtain more travel in the closed direction.
We're the holes for the support brackets already punched through on the inner fenders? If so, they are probably off 1/2".