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Author Topic: Pricing for a 1968 MO complete engine  (Read 3054 times)
ronnieg
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« on: September 05, 2012, 10:05:15 PM »

I am getting ready to offer up my MO 1968 complete engine. I bought it with my z 10 years go. It was completely assembled, with an inch of body shop dust on it and I was told I was all new but took it to a machine shop to be inspected. After the heads were removed , it is evident it had never been fired.  It is 30 with correct pistons but they used full floating pins, correct crank, pan, intake , heads , rockers , all is correct expect cam, it was a hydraulic that was  removed. I just wanted to see what a reasonable price would be to ask. I appreciate any suggestions. Thanks!
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mopar346
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« Reply #1 on: September 06, 2012, 07:49:34 AM »

The concern would be an engine that has set for 10 years even a fresh build, if it hasn't been turned regularly, like every month or so then it may have issues. Valve springs can get weak from sitting in one position too long, it happened more with older stock springs but even the new one can suffer, so the heads would have to be disassebled and the springs checked or at the least check the seat pressure. The other thing I would personally want is a cylinder inspection with a borascope if the engine is assembled as well as a full visual of the crankcase, timing chain area and lifter galley.

I would think if it all checks good then, $5-7K is realistic, with a possible premium being paid if the original car still exist and the owner is a buyer. Not talking about gouging just probably less haggling to get top of the market. I think there would also be an advantage to some if the block and heads were in the same date code build range. I know if my original T/A block surfaced I would pay the price within reason.
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Ed Bertrand
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« Reply #2 on: September 06, 2012, 10:01:36 AM »

Post the partial VIN and the suffix code. Let's see if the car's in the db.

Ed
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1968RSZ28
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« Reply #3 on: September 06, 2012, 11:20:24 AM »

Post the partial VIN and the suffix code. Let's see if the car's in the db.

Ed

18N438462  V0516MO

Paul
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Ed Bertrand
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« Reply #4 on: September 06, 2012, 11:58:58 AM »

Quote
18N438462  V0516MO

Thanks Paul. Not in the DB.

Ed
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ronnieg
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« Reply #5 on: September 06, 2012, 05:37:29 PM »

Thanks for he replies. The short block is together and the heads are off but complete.
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ronnieg
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« Reply #6 on: September 06, 2012, 05:38:43 PM »

I really wish the car was around to get it to its owner.
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mopar346
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« Reply #7 on: September 07, 2012, 06:13:30 AM »

So do you have the timing cover & chain, VC, or exhaust manifolds? These items would change the price. An engine not assembled would be at the lower end of my estimate I believe.
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ronnieg
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« Reply #8 on: September 07, 2012, 05:38:16 PM »

Here are a few pictures of my engine
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ronnieg
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« Reply #9 on: September 07, 2012, 05:39:08 PM »

More
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ronnieg
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« Reply #10 on: September 07, 2012, 05:40:55 PM »

Another
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ronnieg
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« Reply #11 on: September 07, 2012, 05:41:41 PM »

Another
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mopar346
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« Reply #12 on: September 08, 2012, 09:36:21 PM »

No cam, rockers or push rods pictured. No exhaust manifolds or carb from what I see. I wish someone else would give a price I am thinking I may be high for the assemblage of parts.
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ronnieg
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« Reply #13 on: September 09, 2012, 04:45:22 AM »

I have the rockers, pushrods, and a can. It can be reassembled quite easily with just a gasket set. Thanks again for the info.
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lcmc
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« Reply #14 on: September 09, 2012, 12:37:18 PM »

If assembled, dynoed and running it may be worth $5-6K. Like it is $3-4K.
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Danny
1969 Z/28 X77
1970 Nova L78 9300 original miles
ronnieg
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« Reply #15 on: September 11, 2012, 08:27:40 PM »

I guess for that price I could break up a complete original engine an sell it piece by piece and get 8k . Lol
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mopar346
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« Reply #16 on: September 12, 2012, 04:41:30 PM »

I don't believe you will get anywhere near that parting it out, but I could be wrong, I would be interested in seeing your breakdown of the value of each component. Most things are worth more parted out.

Intake            $500 at best
Heads            $400-600 maybe on a good day
Block              $2500-3000 might be high on this as well
Crank             $500
Rods/Pistons    $300
Misc Tin          $100 unless there is something I don't know
Valve Covers    $200 if nice
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Ed Bertrand
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« Reply #17 on: September 12, 2012, 06:10:27 PM »

ebay LINK

Ed
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1968RSZ28
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« Reply #18 on: September 12, 2012, 06:33:20 PM »

Here's the Craigslist ad...  http://richmond.craigslist.org/pts/3255190069.html

Paul
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ronnieg
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« Reply #19 on: September 12, 2012, 09:35:31 PM »

I really don't want to sell it , I want to keep it with my z ! But it's not the original, and maybe I will recoupe money to send my car back to the body shop for another shot. But thanks again guys or the info , I will see how the auction goes!
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Paul68RS/Z28
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« Reply #20 on: September 23, 2012, 06:46:22 PM »

Went to 3,550, which is a fair price. I don't think you'll see much higher than that, unless the original car would show up.  Anyone else buying it would probably value it like you stated above " But it's not original" 

If someone pays $8000 for it, I'm betting they are in the re-stamp mode.   Sad
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68Zproject
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« Reply #21 on: September 23, 2012, 07:28:21 PM »

The heads would be a deal breaker for me with the guide plates etc.
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68Z28
ronnieg
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« Reply #22 on: September 24, 2012, 10:40:35 PM »

Thanks.  I was told recently from a long time Chevrolet mechanic(since 1955) that the 291 heads had a problem with pulling the pressed in studs out , hence why they changed in late 69 early 70 to screw in studs and guide plates on 302s. He said that when a 302 came in with this issue they swapped out heads with this done under warranty, he did say that he had no idea what castings they were replacing them with. Has anyone seen this ?
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mopar346
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« Reply #23 on: September 25, 2012, 06:41:59 AM »

To my knowledge Chevrolet never had a screw in stud and guide plates on production heads or replacements. I have personally never seen a set or heard this and I have been in the repair side of dealerships for almost 30 years. The did have an issue under certain conditions of pulling the studs so back in the day we did use screw ins on our own stuff when we were building heads, but we also would commonly pin the studs in place as well if it was for a moderate build.
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jdv69z
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« Reply #24 on: September 25, 2012, 08:33:54 AM »

I thought Chevy went to the screw in stud/guide plate arrangement in 1970 with the 350 LT1? Performance engines only?

Jimmy V.
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Jimmy V.
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« Reply #25 on: September 25, 2012, 09:13:21 AM »

I thought Chevy went to the screw in stud/guide plate arrangement in 1970 with the 350 LT1? Performance engines only?

Jimmy V.
Correct...1970 Z28 and the Corvette LT1.
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Jerry G.

Z28-1968-07C-Norwood
Ermine White, Red Std. Interior
2nd. Owner, 38,000 miles
mopar346
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« Reply #26 on: September 26, 2012, 12:01:17 PM »

I did not know that, I guess the ones I have seen I just assumed were modified.
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68Zproject
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« Reply #27 on: October 06, 2012, 12:41:17 PM »

I got the screw in studs that look like pressed in and don't use guide plates.  Pioneer rm-348.
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68Z28
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