Starter clicking before start

[Axlman]

Hello.
I have the 67 Camaro rs/ss convertible just about done and ready to roll.
But the engine shop that i had turned out to be a bit of a nightmare, ok to good on the engine build for both the 350 and the 425 Buick, but nasty on the install and set up side.
the starter clicks 20-50 times and then the click gets a weak sound then starts. happens just about every time but sometimes it starts fine for a while.
I though ground maybe but it seems ok.
Any ideas out there?

Thanks
Ken and Axl

[69pace]

Check the Voltage Regulator, Battery cables, and connections at the junction block. Check the connections at the starter and check all engine to body grounds. Check the charge in the battery.

[Sauron327]

Not related to the obvious connection possiblilities, but did that engine shop install the starter brace that many decide in unnecessary? You should install one if they left it off.

[Everett#2390]

Good suggestions given and battery charge is the key.
So is the starter brace.
Also, cable gauge also, min 1 GA cable vice 4 GA.

It reads like the solenoid on top of the starter either needs replacement with an AC/Delco unit,
or the present one torn apart and the washer turned 90°and copper studs turned 180°, then reinstalled.

[Axlman]

I will check the battery and cables.
I already changed the starter though with the same result.
Thanks for the suggestions and I will post what we find.

On another note, we had the car painted in the original Tahoe Turquoise, WOW, a very nice color.
I haven't seen many in this paint and it gets a lot of attention and questions. The wife was the one to be firm that it be repainted the original color and I am sure glad she did.
I have tried to post pictures but I cant get them to attach. Any ideasÉ

[Axlman]

Before and after.

[Stingr69]

First check the battery condition and connections. If good, then look for a high resistance or splice in the purple wire to the "S" terminal to the starter solenoid.

You can check for high resistance in the electrical system by using a screwdriver to jump across the large 12V cable to the "S" Terminal on the starter. If it cranks while jumping the terminals but it will not crank with the key, then you have a high resistance in the circuit. The old school Ford relay mod is still the one I use. I use the relay to send 12V directly to the "S" terminal on the starter only.  The factory wiring and cables are not cut or modified in any way. You just run the factory purple wire to the "S" terminal on the Ford relay and make up a light guage 12V feed to one of the Ford heavy terminals and another light guage wire from the other heavy lug back to the starter "S" terminal. Never have an issue after that.  Makes hooking up a remote starter switch easy too. Nobody likes this mod but it does work.

-Mark.

[BULLITT65]

One idea, not sure if this plays into it or not: I know on some small blocks the starter needs to be shim-ed. My friend had an issue with his starter turning slowly or not at all, and it was because it was binding against the flex plate. We shim-ed it up and didn't have any issues after that. Not sure if this is contributing to the problem you are having, but I want to make sure we are covering all the bases for you.

[camaronut]

I would do a continuity check of all the wires that go to the starter circuit.  It does sound like you have a low voltage condition......could be you have a grounding issue.  Check all the ground connections starting at the battery...if there is any paint keeping the ground to be "true", then a low voltage condition like your speaking of can happen.

Nice job on the car.....

 

[69pace]

BTW I like the color.

[Axlman]

Thanks for the advice guys. The car is at the tire shop getting the brake conversion gone through and bled and a wheel alignment.
As soon as I get it back tomorrow I will go through the wiring and hopefully get the starter issue fixed.
I will get some better pictures with the rubber and new chrome on her as well.

A second issue with the car is that the new 15 x 8 rear tires.
The drivers side sits outside the wheel well, and the passenger side is inside.
anyone else see this before? It looks like the only fix would be to have the body off frame and reset.
Any thoughts?

[BULLITT65]

Ok I am guessing you are actually running 15 x 8 wheels, but what size are the tires? how far do they sit inside and outside the wheel well?

[Axlman]

235 70R15
they are about 1 1/2 inches out on the drivers side and look pretty good on the passenger side.
I can post a pic after I get it back.

[Sauron327]

The car is at the tire shop getting the brake conversion gone through and bled and a wheel alignment.
A second issue with the car is that the new 15 x 8 rear tires.
The drivers side sits outside the wheel well, and the passenger side is inside.
anyone else see this before? It looks like the only fix would be to have the body off frame and reset.
Any thoughts?

What kind brake components? Make sure the '67 bump stops clear the calipers; the stops can contact the flex hose banjo if using '69 style calipers.

The back half of the car is unibody, separation of body and frame is not possible. The rear itself must be located properly.

[JohnZ]

A second issue with the car is that the new 15 x 8 rear tires.
The drivers side sits outside the wheel well, and the passenger side is inside.
anyone else see this before?

Do both rear wheels have the same backspacing?