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Author Topic: Two piece brake rotor replacement.  (Read 3943 times)
DAVEN1256
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« on: June 27, 2012, 09:02:11 PM »

I need to replace the original two piece rotors on my '68 that uses the four piston calipers.

Does anyone know if anyone is making just the rotor section of the two piece originaI?.......................... I would like to find just the rotor part and keep the original hub. In another post I had put up, "tmodel66" had responeded the he found these on Amazon.com (Bendix part # PRT1213) but is using them on a "69. Amazon asks for your car info to make sure a part fits your car. It will say "yes" for a '69 but "no" for a '68. Maybe they work with the '69 single piston caliper but not the '68 four piston calipers.

I read a lot of old posts on this but most are pretty dated now. I know you can get the entire two piece (rotor and hub) in reproduction now. Just wondering about the rotor part by itself.

                   Thanks....Dave
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Dusk Blue Z
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« Reply #1 on: June 29, 2012, 07:12:13 AM »

From what I found on the interweb the Bendix part # PRT1213 is a one piece rotor. I have not seen the repop two piece rotors sold separately yet.

Mike
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Petes L48
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« Reply #2 on: June 29, 2012, 08:25:22 AM »

You're not alone in this search.  I asked a couple vendors at spring Carlisle and Right Stuff at the Camaro Nationals and they said no, the rotor alone is not available.  You'd think they would contact the supplier and get this going.  Maybe we need to call the factory in China?  And I just sent a pair of rotors back to Summit, same issue, one piece dealios. 
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vtfb68
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« Reply #3 on: June 29, 2012, 10:01:53 AM »

Rick's Camaro lists them in their 2012 catalog as part # BR-69 @ 129.99 a pair 1-800-359-7717
   VT
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« Reply #4 on: June 29, 2012, 10:17:27 AM »

Quote
Rick's Camaro lists them in their 2012 catalog as part # BR-69 @ 129.99 a pair 1-800-359-7717

That's for both the rotor and the hub. No one is selling just the rotor.

Ed
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vtfb68
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« Reply #5 on: June 29, 2012, 10:29:51 AM »

Ed,
 Do you know if the Rick's rotors fit the factory hubs?
  VT
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« Reply #6 on: June 29, 2012, 10:39:26 AM »

No, I haven't had any experience with the repop rotors so I can't say.

Sorry

Ed
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DT
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« Reply #7 on: June 29, 2012, 08:15:24 PM »

Ed,
 Do you know if the Rick's rotors fit the factory hubs?
  VT

HUH???  No one is selling JUST the rotor???  You can purchase the replacement rotor without the hub.  It then will become a one piece unit.  Not sure what you are asking here?
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Donny
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« Reply #8 on: June 29, 2012, 08:47:03 PM »

DT
The original rotors on these Camaros were a 2 piece design. The aftermarket had 1 piece to replace them when they wore out. They are now being offered as a 2 piece design again but some would rather keep as much of the original car as possible so the wants just the rotor minus the hub....Joe
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tmodel66
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« Reply #9 on: June 29, 2012, 09:35:53 PM »

Here's a link to rotors for '68.

http://www.amazon.com/Dura-International-BR5514-Front-Brake/dp/B000CHS3Q4/ref=au_pf_ss_13?ie=UTF8&Make=Chevrolet|47&Model=Camaro|432&Year=1968|1968&carId=002&n=15684181&s=automotive
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Daniel  
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Ed Bertrand
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« Reply #10 on: June 29, 2012, 10:43:37 PM »

Daniel, the picture in YOUR LINK is VERY misleading. First, it shows a 4 lug rotor which wasn't used on the Camaro. Second it shows only the hub, which isn't correct for that part number. The 5514 (in various part number extensions like BR5514, 5514AX, etc...) is a 1969 and later replacement "one piece" hub and rotor assembly that fits the single piston calipers. The 67-68 Camaro uses a smaller hub because of the 4 piston caliper design and the 5514 won't fit.

However, the 5100, which is also a "one piece" hub and rotor assembly USUALLY fits the 67-68 Camaro, but because of machining tolorances, not always. I'm running a set of 5100's on my 68 right now and you can see how close the hub comes to rubbing against the caliper (see below). I HAVE had to take new ones back once or twice over the years to exchange them for different ones because one might rub while another one wouldn't. China (where just about EVERYTHING is made now), doesn't have as stringent tolorances as one would hope!

Anyway, the "correct" 2 piece hub and rotor is only available as an assembly and you can't buy just the rotor. At least not right now!

Ed
« Last Edit: June 30, 2012, 03:17:25 AM by Ed Bertrand » Logged
DT
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« Reply #11 on: June 30, 2012, 08:23:24 AM »

DT
The original rotors on these Camaros were a 2 piece design. The aftermarket had 1 piece to replace them when they wore out. They are now being offered as a 2 piece design again but some would rather keep as much of the original car as possible so the wants just the rotor minus the hub....Joe

Joe, isnt that what I said?  .....  Perhaps he is asking how the hub is on the 1 piece unit as Ed pointed out with clearance???
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Donny
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« Reply #12 on: June 30, 2012, 10:42:45 AM »

Sorry Donny
I misunderstood what you were saying..Joe
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tmodel66
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« Reply #13 on: June 30, 2012, 10:52:25 AM »

Ed I don't know how a '68 fastens to the spindle but those 4 holes are not the lug pattern but for the 4 bolts that hold the rotor to the hub from the back side of the spindle. The spindle has the lug studs in it not this part of the rotor.
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Daniel  
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« Reply #14 on: June 30, 2012, 11:36:32 AM »

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Ed I don't know how a '68 fastens to the spindle but those 4 holes are not the lug pattern but for the 4 bolts that hold the rotor to the hub from the back side of the spindle. The spindle has the lug studs in it not this part of the rotor.

Sorry for my bad terminology Daniel. I said "lugs" but didn't mean wheel lugs. What I actually meant were the rivets (or bolts) that attach the rotor to the hub which, for the Camaro, was 5 (see the top picture below for one of my original rotors less the hub).

And some trivia for you guys, original FACTORY hub and rotor assemblies had the rotor rivited to the hub like the Corvette. Later service replacements (like the one in the bottom picture) had the rotors bolted to the hubs.

Ed
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Paul68RS/Z28
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« Reply #15 on: June 30, 2012, 12:16:49 PM »

ED, Did all of the Camaros come from the plant riveted? I've seen plenty of Corvettes riveted, not Camaros.
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Ed Bertrand
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« Reply #16 on: June 30, 2012, 12:31:49 PM »

Quote
ED, Did all of the Camaros come from the plant riveted? I've seen plenty of Corvettes riveted, not Camaros.

I can't positively say, but I've sure spent a LOT of time drilling out rivets over the years!! John or one of the other guys might know so I'll ask.

Ed
« Last Edit: June 30, 2012, 12:48:47 PM by Ed Bertrand » Logged
Ed Bertrand
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« Reply #17 on: June 30, 2012, 02:42:58 PM »

Well, apparently I was incorrect in my statement. John, Jerry, William and Jon all stated that the riveted hub wasn't used on the Camaro. Apologies to all...

Ed
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vtfb68
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« Reply #18 on: June 30, 2012, 10:36:59 PM »

Anybody else have dark green paint dabs on their hubs?
  VT
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DAVEN1256
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« Reply #19 on: July 01, 2012, 06:36:01 PM »

First off, thanks to all that responded and all the comments and ideas.

I guess right now, no one is making just the rotor part of the original two piece hub / rotor assembly for a '68 with a four piston caliper. I believe I will get a one piece replacement for now but hang on to my originals in case just the rotor part becomes available in the future. The reproduction two piece assemblies are a little more than I can put into the brakes right now.

I have read where the orignial two part assemblies were balanced at the factory by drilling holes in them. I am attaching a picture of one of my originals. One of them has five holes drilled in it and the other has none.........Even if just the rotor part becomes available in the future, I don't know where you would go to have this kind of balancing done.

All that being said, can any one recomend a good one piece replacement. I see them all over the place from very cheap to very expensive.

Thanks..........Dave
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Ed Bertrand
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« Reply #20 on: July 01, 2012, 07:27:32 PM »

Dave, the 5100 works fine. Just be forewarned that you may have to get a couple of them before you find two that don't interfere with the caliper. You can also try the 5514 since that's the number AutoZone shows. O'Reily shows the BrakeBest 5100RGS and AutoZone shows the Duralast 5514, so maybe they've changed the hub a little on the 5514 to make it fit. I don't know.

However, do you still have enough meat to turn your originals? The "official" specs are .965" minimum but lots of folks have run them with up to (or as little as) .935" to .940".

Ed
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Dusk Blue Z
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« Reply #21 on: July 01, 2012, 09:59:54 PM »

Just one of the original rotors on my car was drilled. The other had this paint mark on it. A local electric motor repair shop should be able to balance your rotors if needed.

Mike
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JKZ27
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« Reply #22 on: July 02, 2012, 05:57:36 AM »

A few years ago I bought a front disc conversion kit (OE style 4 piston) for my 68 and it came with one piece rotors. The rotors had a small groove cut in them to allow for the caliper clearence. They came in unmarked boxes so I don't know the brand.

John
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Mike S
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« Reply #23 on: July 02, 2012, 10:05:00 PM »

 I seriously doubt it was balanced as a complete unit. It makes more sense in mass production to balance the components separately and assemble later using the individual cores so there is no need to have a match pair. If it were that critical then I would think there would be an index mark in case you have to unbolt the sections for things like changing a broken stud and putting it back together in the correct position. Even then, a replacement stud may not be the same weight so there goes the balance if it were ever replaced and the unit was balanced as a whole.

Mike
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DAVEN1256
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« Reply #24 on: July 02, 2012, 10:29:44 PM »

When I read that about the factory balancing, the person that wrote it said that they saw that in the "68 Chassis Service Manual. I don't have one of those. If someone does, it would be interesting to see what it says.
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DAVEN1256
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« Reply #25 on: July 03, 2012, 11:55:24 AM »

Dave, the 5100 works fine. Just be forewarned that you may have to get a couple of them before you find two that don't interfere with the caliper. You can also try the 5514 since that's the number AutoZone shows. O'Reily shows the BrakeBest 5100RGS and AutoZone shows the Duralast 5514, so maybe they've changed the hub a little on the 5514 to make it fit. I don't know.

However, do you still have enough meat to turn your originals? The "official" specs are .965" minimum but lots of folks have run them with up to (or as little as) .935" to .940".

Ed

I measured my rotors and they measure out at .950 and .955 inches. Would a shop turn them if they are already past the minimum?

I removed the bolts connecting my original hub to the rotor before I realized I would go with a one piece replacement. I tried to separate the rotor and hub with no success. I can't say I tried real hard for fear of damaging them. If they ever did make just the rotor part and I wanted to use my original hub, what's the best way to separate the hub from the rotor? I am assume they are rusted together.
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Ed Bertrand
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« Reply #26 on: July 03, 2012, 12:06:17 PM »

Quote
I measured my rotors and they measure out at .950 and .955 inches. Would a shop turn them if they are already past the minimum?

That's a good question. You might want to call around and see what they can do for you.

Quote
I am assume they are rusted together.

More than likely. Once you remove the 5 bolts, they should just pull apart.

Ed
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Mike S
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« Reply #27 on: July 03, 2012, 01:13:46 PM »

  A (reputable) machine shop won't turn them if they are past the minimum for risk of liability.

Mike
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Paul68RS/Z28
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« Reply #28 on: July 03, 2012, 04:45:30 PM »

You may need to put some heat to them while using a press, with light pressure, it shouldn't take too much. Also soak them in penetrating fluid.

If you explain that your trying to turn the rotors to keep the car original "for shows" you may get someone to turn them. Like Mike said, most shops don't want to expose themselves to the liability. Really, if your thinking about using them on a driver, I wouldn't turn them below mins, just replace them, not worth the risk of failure and possible liability, God forbid, you injured someone due to bad rotors.
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DAVEN1256
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« Reply #29 on: July 03, 2012, 06:21:41 PM »

I agree about going below the minimum. This car will be a fair weather driver and I hope to drive it a lot. I am going to get a one piece replacement for now. I will keep my originals tucked away.
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68Zproject
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« Reply #30 on: July 04, 2012, 01:29:55 AM »

I've driven my daily driver car and many others with drums and rotors turned way past the specs and never had a problem.  If you're driving so close to the edge that a few thousanths of an inch mean life or death, I'd take a bus.
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68Z28
DAVEN1256
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« Reply #31 on: July 04, 2012, 11:15:16 AM »

I've driven my daily driver car and many others with drums and rotors turned way past the specs and never had a problem.  If you're driving so close to the edge that a few thousandths of an inch mean life or death, I'd take a bus.
I have no idea how significant those few thousandths are. Some feel it could be dangerous and other don't...... I would think, however, that the manufactureres build some extra margin into those minimum specs just to cover themselves............How do you get yours turned past the minimum? Do you take them to a shop and they do it regardless of the fact that they are going past the minimum?
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Petes L48
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« Reply #32 on: July 07, 2012, 04:59:00 PM »

I pulled out my originals, one hub had green paint at the outer end.  This one was missing the rotor when I got the car.  My other assembly did not have any paint markings, and the rotor was not drilled/balanced.  Early 67 LOS


 
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vtfb68
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« Reply #33 on: July 07, 2012, 08:38:57 PM »

Pete,
Thats the same as mine, late 68 LA. Might be an inspection or ID of some sort. Anybody know?
We can be perty sure they are factory originals.
   VT
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