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Author Topic: My New '68 Camaro Z/28 Butternut Yellow  (Read 11483 times)
maroman
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« Reply #465 on: September 15, 2014, 06:48:28 AM »

The reason you can't get the distributor to index where it needs to be is the oil pump rod. When you did all the other work you turned the engine over. You now need to orient the pump rod correctly so the rotor will line up where it's supposed to be. You didn't take that deep breathe, did you?
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Doug  '67 RS/SS 396 auto I know the car since new
JohnZ
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« Reply #466 on: September 15, 2014, 09:16:55 AM »

Rather than type it out, I'm attaching Lars Grimsrud's excellent paper on how to install a Chevy V-8 distributor; follow the instructions and you'll have it running in no time.
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'69 Z/28
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« Reply #467 on: September 15, 2014, 09:58:59 AM »

I've been doing this stuff for over 40 yrs, and the techniques I have used were the ways I learned around age 20, they 'worked', and I never had reason to 'find a way to do it better'... Smiley, BUT I want to thank John for attaching Lars' paper.  It is EXCELLENT.. and I learned a couple of things that I will use next time I do this job!!

If a 'new Chevy guy' learns and follows the methods described... he should never encounter any insurmountable issues with distributor timing on an old Chevy V8... Smiley

Danny:   READ and HEED Lars' paper...

Thanks again JOHNZ!!  Smiley
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Gary W.  /  69Z28-RS, 72 B 720 cowl console rosewood all tint
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60 Corvette white/red, 72 Corvette coupe (2), 
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1968 Z28
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« Reply #468 on: September 15, 2014, 11:25:28 AM »

Rather than type it out, I'm attaching Lars Grimsrud's excellent paper on how to install a Chevy V-8 distributor; follow the instructions and you'll have it running in no time.
Good write up on "walking the distributor rotor".....I learned this many years ago by accident and never had to use a long screwdriver to index the oil pump shaft thereafter.  Like Lars said, you can walk that rotor around faster than you can find a long screwdriver.  The rest of the article was very well written and informative.  Have never seen this before but I'm sure going to save it for future reference and sharing.
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Jerry G.

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janobyte
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« Reply #469 on: September 15, 2014, 12:14:41 PM »

Good article, and covers what I was taught to be " cold setting " the timing. I think sometimes it may be hard for people to wrap their brain around rotor placement/ #1 firing position. Danny will get it ,just takes a few times to also develop the "feel". Also check your plugs again as you could have easily fouled one. Then your chasing your tail so to speak.
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Kelley W King
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« Reply #470 on: September 15, 2014, 02:29:11 PM »

Kind of neat that he uses the finger in the hole trick. I thought I invented it.
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69 Z28 RS Scuncio Hi Performance
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« Reply #471 on: September 15, 2014, 07:11:49 PM »

We are still talking about distributors right?
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69 x77 burnished brown, 711 int 05A bought in 78
67 rs/ss 350 butternut yellow 4 speed 2nd owner
70 Z28 forrest green, green int, M40, bk vinyl roof PROJECT
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ko-lek-tor
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« Reply #472 on: September 15, 2014, 07:25:15 PM »

We are still talking about distributors right?
I think we are moving on to a subject I really have expertise in...finally!
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Putting you First...Keeps me First. Talent on loan from God. Helping the hobbyist and exposing the fraud
1969 SS/RS 396 coupe Hugger Orange X22 712 bought in 79
1969 SS 350 coupe LeMans Blue 713 bought in 79
1969 307 4spd. coupe Daytona Yellow 711 bought in 85
dannystarr
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« Reply #473 on: Today at 02:21:06 AM »

Update... I realized that I was trying to line the rotor up with the # 1 Cylinder, Not on the rotor. I know, not real smart. I found TDC # 1. Dropped the dist. right in and it's pointing to number 1. Amazing how easy that was when ya do it. I installed the wires as described and she fired right up. I keep getting conflicting advice about the dwell setting. Some old timer told me 32 is too high, and go to 29. All the books say 28-32. So I set it at 29.5. Another guy who is the Bowtietuner told me 32 is too high, and go 29. He seems to really know his stuff. Good for now. Timing set, idle set, fuel/air set. Warmed it up and took it for a ride, and it won't pull. Picked up off the line well, but once I get going it starts to hesitate big time. Took it back to the garage, pulled the dist. and changed the rotor over to an old dist. from Kragen that I had laying around. I threw the rotor on and filed the points real quick, dropped it in and it fired right up. Set the dwell at 30 etc. etc. Wanted to see if there was a noticeable difference and there was. It was a MAJOR dog off the line, Had to ride the clutch, but once I got going it pulled like hell, and blasted right up to 80MPH. SO, the original reworked dist. is advancing, but coming in to early. So I need something in between right ?   I wish I could just change the springs and weights myself. Anybody know what I need to buy, do I need the weights also? I'll tell ya just pulling on the throttle from outside the car and it revs right up with no hesitation. But I know that old Kragen dist. is not performance oriented. So I need to rework the original dist. Here is what I found from the shop.

   Advance starts 11-1200 all in by 2,800 to 3,000. Has 18 degrees mechanical and 10 degrees Vacuum. That's all the info On the tag. And it reads 10 degrees vac on my test gauge. Should I have it come in later, at say 1,500 to 1,700? Or maybe 1,800 to 2,000? Note also, he changed the vacuum pod. It has a number on it that says B26. Anybody know what that is? He saved the original pod and put it in the box.

 Almost there guys, thanx for everything so far. Home stretch me in...  Grin Grin  ... Danny


 
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