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Author Topic: Cowl Grill Seal  (Read 2528 times)
IZRSSS
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« Reply #15 on: March 17, 2012, 01:18:45 PM »

I've had dealer parts shipped from all over the country to me. I've got two cars here with old GM seals and the hoods fit fine. Often the hinges are not adusted correctly. There is a right and wrong method, and adjustment is often misunderstood. I also just changed a worn hinge that did not allow full rear closure with the seal installed. Replacing the hinge solved the problem.

Just trying to eliminate all possible issues before going to the extent of replacing hinges. The hood fits fine w/o the seal so something tells me the seal that's on it is either incorrect or there are better ones out there. Thanks for your comment.   
 

 
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Charley
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« Reply #16 on: March 17, 2012, 01:38:28 PM »

I just dug thru the shop and found one new in the box and compared it to others that I have on cars. I can't tell any difference in how hard it is and all the hoods close correctly. I took pics but the size allowed on this site is so tiny they won't post.
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1968RSZ28
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« Reply #17 on: March 17, 2012, 02:10:07 PM »

I just dug thru the shop and found one new in the box and compared it to others that I have on cars. I can't tell any difference in how hard it is and all the hoods close correctly.

Like I said...

Why not just get it from your local GM dealer?  Part number 3927464 is still available for around $10.00

I'm curious, how much are the reproduction ones?

Paul
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IZRSSS
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« Reply #18 on: March 17, 2012, 02:37:52 PM »

Thanks for taking the time to do that Charley, I really appreciate it! Maybe part of the problem is figuring out what is NOS and what is a original GM replacement. Can you tell me if there are any differences between the two? Like I stated earlier, the information I got was from a reliable source and I have always trusted this guy. The issue he had was with a NOS replacement part.

BTW, I plan to get in touch with Steele to discuss this thing in detail. They are closed today so I'll give it another go next week.
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Charley
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« Reply #19 on: March 17, 2012, 02:58:51 PM »

I can't tell any difference from the old ones.
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68camaroz28
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« Reply #20 on: March 17, 2012, 08:01:25 PM »

Agree with Charlie & Scott! A year ago or so I carefully looked and compared two originals I have (off our 68 & 69) to a new one prior to ordering more and they sure seem to me to be the same design/material. And as one would imagine the new ones can be compressed much easier then our two older ones. Not sure what others might be comparing to but the cowl seal if compared to a door, roofrail, or trunk seal will seem much harder as it was (more dense). Thought maybe I was missing something as I do that sometimes  Grin, so I went out and compared again. I can pinch the new one so the hole in the middle is closed but not the old one and again the design seems to be dead nuts. Have no fear Marty and purchase that GM correct service replacement...........


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Chick
68 Z/28 NOR 01B Orig motor/trans/rear
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69 L78 Surv Nova Purch 4/69 31K miles
67 L89 Corv Tribute
68 Corv 427/400 Orig motor
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R 68Z build- http://www.camaros.net/forums/showthread.php?t=182584
IZRSSS
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« Reply #21 on: March 17, 2012, 08:30:39 PM »

Excellent pics Chick! Charley, Scott, Paul...sorry I doubted you all! I'll pay GM a visit, thanks!

Go UNM Lobo's!!! Its not often I get to say that so what the hey?!
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L78 steve
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« Reply #22 on: March 19, 2012, 12:06:10 PM »

I've had dealer parts shipped from all over the country to me. I've got two cars here with old GM seals and the hoods fit fine. Often the hinges are not adusted correctly. There is a right and wrong method, and adjustment is often misunderstood. I also just changed a worn hinge that did not allow full rear closure with the seal installed. Replacing the hinge solved the problem.

Hood closes and lines up fine without the seal. With it I have to push down the rear corners of the hood to get the proper alignment.
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69 Z/28 Dover White X33,ZL2,PS,M20,Std.int.04C
67 SS/RS Mt. Green 1W,2LGSR,3SL,4K,5BY,07C
69Z28-RS
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« Reply #23 on: March 19, 2012, 12:19:44 PM »

That sounds like it could be due to worn hinges, Steve...
Note:  your white Z28 must be fairly rare, as I can't recall seeing one in all my years of Z'ing...
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Gary W.  /  69Z28-RS, 72 B 720 cowl console rosewood all tint
69 Corvette convertible, silver/black 350 hp,
60 Corvette white/red, 72 Corvette coupe (2), 
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L78 steve
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« Reply #24 on: March 20, 2012, 09:15:58 AM »

That sounds like it could be due to worn hinges, Steve...
Note:  your white Z28 must be fairly rare, as I can't recall seeing one in all my years of Z'ing...

They may be worn. Ive never had them off the car to test.
There was another White 69Z in town back in the 70's only his had the black vinyl top. And there's a white RS on the home page now. I remember seeing a color breakdown somewhere and the white was less than 10% of all the colors.
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69 Z/28 Dover White X33,ZL2,PS,M20,Std.int.04C
67 SS/RS Mt. Green 1W,2LGSR,3SL,4K,5BY,07C
Sauron327
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« Reply #25 on: March 21, 2012, 05:59:27 AM »

I've had dealer parts shipped from all over the country to me. I've got two cars here with old GM seals and the hoods fit fine. Often the hinges are not adusted correctly. There is a right and wrong method, and adjustment is often misunderstood. I also just changed a worn hinge that did not allow full rear closure with the seal installed. Replacing the hinge solved the problem.

Hood closes and lines up fine without the seal. With it I have to push down the rear corners of the hood to get the proper alignment.
The hood I mentioned above closed fine until nearing the end of travel. You could see the geometry change compared to the other hinge as the hood closed. At which point the hood popped up on one side. It was maxed out in it's adjustment rotation. You have to rotate the hinge, simply loweriing the entire hinge will not bring the rear of the hood down fully. In most instances, you should be able to make the rear of the hood lower than the fenders using correct hinge adjustment procedure. If your hood is lining up perfectly without the seal, adjustment will allow you to bury the corners.

Another factor is the fender to cowl height relationship (not the cowl panel). If your fenders have few or no shims at the cowl, the cowl elevation is closer to the fender top. So the cowl seal contact point pushes the hood up at the corners. This adjustment choreography starts with door to quarter and rocker alignment, which may or may not be feasable. Hinges can be changed by oneself one at a time.
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IZRSSS
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« Reply #26 on: March 21, 2012, 08:31:24 AM »

Scott - Sorry about the poor example below but does the pic illustrate the correct way to rotate the hinge. Also, are these two bolts the only way to lower the hood...short of messaging or beating the crap out of it?
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Sauron327
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« Reply #27 on: March 21, 2012, 08:52:39 AM »

It shows rotation is both directions. Front of hinge goes up, rear goes down to lower hood back of hood. The arrows both pointing down illustrate how to not lower a hood. Some elogate the rear slot to gain further adjustment, but the integal washer can hit the hinge's lip. If you change to a smaller diameter washer, you deviate from fastener correctness. Lube helps. Looks like you have more adjustment on the rear yet. Loosen the rear bolt, push up on the hood, which rotates the hinge to max out adjustment and tighten the bolt.
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IZRSSS
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« Reply #28 on: March 21, 2012, 09:07:54 AM »

Pardon the arrow directions but I didn't know how else to illustrate rotation (up & down). I'll play with it once I have a little more time and see what happens. I can't help but think about what Kurt said a while back...something about; have you ever seen line workers align a hood? Take a rubber mallet and start having some fun! Not his exact words, but I think you get a visual  Wink.

Thanks Scott!
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Sauron327
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« Reply #29 on: March 21, 2012, 10:31:13 AM »

 Draw two arrows. Just make the front arrow point up. I'm sure readers understand anyway.
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