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Author Topic: 1969 Hood Hinge Color  (Read 2733 times)
MarkB
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« on: February 25, 2012, 02:18:14 PM »

My wife and I are restoring my 1969 camaro.  We would like to use the correct color for the hood hinges.  We purchased OER paint, dark grey phosphate.  This looks a little dark.  Would someone know if there is a correct paint for the hinges?
Thanks
MarkB
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69Z28-RS
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« Reply #1 on: February 25, 2012, 02:24:14 PM »

I think light phosphate gray would be better, if you have to paint it.    A better alternative might be to actually 'phosphate' it;..  Check out Palmetto Enterprises for their phosphate solution.   Besides the solution, I had to purchase some Stainless steel pots (large enough for the parts you intend to phosphate), and a hot plate and thermometer.. (and lots of WD40 for neutralizing after the coating process)..   It works great for the fasteners after you've cleaned and derusted them.. 
"Metal Rescue', or 'Evaporust'' works good for removing rust (non-destructively for everything else like paint, rubber, etc)...

PS.  I remember fondly when my wife used to help me in the garage..  Smiley   

Gary
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Gary W.  /  69Z28-RS, 72 B 720 cowl console rosewood all tint
69 Corvette convertible, silver/black 350 hp,
60 Corvette white/red, 72 Corvette coupe (2), 
90 ZR1 red/red #246, 90 ZR1 white/gray #2466
72 El Camino, '55 Nomad, '57 Nomad, '57 B/A Sedan
Mike S
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« Reply #2 on: February 25, 2012, 02:31:59 PM »

 If you don't feel like treating your own metal parts, I would recommend http://www.brakeboosters.com/services.htm
as an alternative.

Mike
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67 LOS SS/RS L35 Hardtop - Original w/UOIT
67 NOR SS/RS L35 Convertible - Restored
tmodel66
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« Reply #3 on: February 25, 2012, 03:38:46 PM »

X 2 on brakeboosters for your plating. They did my hood hinges, jack mast, brake booster, backing plates and caliper brackets. Everything looks great.
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Daniel  
'69 SS 350/4 speed  Fathom Green--POP
68rs327conv
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« Reply #4 on: February 25, 2012, 04:38:37 PM »

Don't forget Jerry M at Camaro High Performance.  I used palmetto to plate the small stuff myself and had Jerry do the large items like hood hinges.

http://www.z28camaro.com/

Mike
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Mike
68 RS Conv 327/210hp, Powerglide Factory AC
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« Reply #5 on: February 25, 2012, 07:41:30 PM »

Another thing to consider.  The phosphating is easy to do, but you need to have the parts clean and rust-free.  They recommend media blasting before dipping in the hot solution.  You also need a pretty big non-ferrous solution vessel to do hood hinges.
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68camaroz28
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« Reply #6 on: February 25, 2012, 11:50:28 PM »

Mark, many of us use Palmetto phosphate concentrate and its fairly easy but the hood hinges due to size are a little more than many of us want to handle. I recommend having them done by one of the two already mentioned. Do yourself some favors and complete searches on the phosphate process as I'm sure it would come in handy for your restoration. A glass beader is most important for the prep work.
Good luck and even more important, welcome aboard!
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Chick
68 Z/28 NOR 01B Orig motor/trans/rear
69 Z/28 NOR 07A Orig Block & GM Cross-ram/carbs
69 L34 Rest. Nova Father/Son Car
69 L78 Surv Nova Purch 4/69 31K miles
67 L89 Corv Tribute
68 Corv 427/400 Orig motor
07 Corv Z06
R 68Z build- http://www.camaros.net/forums/showthread.php?t=182584
LM69Z28
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« Reply #7 on: February 29, 2012, 02:28:58 AM »

Lets not forget that a "raw" phosphated hinges, springs or latch's etc will get surface rust on them "almost" overnight if its exposed to ANY type of moisture. (Refer to Jerry's book page 203) There are many products out there that should be used to protect these parts after being finished. You don't  want to pull them off ever year or so to redo them unless that's your "thing" Think about aligning the hood every year.......... no thanks! My solution to this since our Z lives  at the beach in So California was several coats of Testors rattle can clear semi gloss lacquer.  Then baked in the oven at 200 degrees. They look great and very correct with a nice medium gray finish!
My 2 cents
good luck
LM69Z28 Wink
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Stingr69
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« Reply #8 on: March 01, 2012, 10:13:15 AM »

Cast Iron Gray "Cast Blast" is a good option for a driver IMO.

-Mark.
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Sauron327
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« Reply #9 on: March 01, 2012, 11:00:02 AM »

If using Castblast, the hinges should be epoxied first. The aerosol paint is cheap and offers poor long term corrosion protection.
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Charley
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« Reply #10 on: March 01, 2012, 11:11:47 AM »

Try the Palmetto stuff. It is really easy and you can find big enough stainless pots probably at Walmart etc and do it on a outdoor bar-b-que. It really is easy.
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Petes L48
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« Reply #11 on: March 01, 2012, 11:56:19 AM »

If you can find some of those stainless cafeteria steamer pans for cheap, they work great on a propane turkey fryer.  Speaking of turkey, those disposable aluminum oval pans in the supermarket might also work if you have some support on the bottom.  You'd have to check and see if a hinge would fit though.  I think the only thing you can't use is iron or steel.     
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MarkB
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« Reply #12 on: March 03, 2012, 05:26:15 PM »

Thanks everyone for your responses.  I would like to stay away from the phosphate process because of the rust problems.
The hinges have been bead blasted and epoxy primed.
We tried the OER light gray phosphate and there is no difference between the dark and the light on a primed metal sample.
I was looking for a paint brand that someone has used successfully.
MarkB
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Mike S
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« Reply #13 on: March 03, 2012, 05:49:11 PM »

 On my restored convertable the hinges along with other parts that were originally phosphated were done in 1987 and still look great today. The trick it to use an oil that goes on wet and dries to the touch. I do this once a year using an artist brush on those parts and never had rust problems. If you use paint then any parts of the hinge rub will wear off quickly and that area will stand out visually.
Just something to consider.

Mike
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67 LOS SS/RS L35 Hardtop - Original w/UOIT
67 NOR SS/RS L35 Convertible - Restored
67L78
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« Reply #14 on: March 03, 2012, 07:55:57 PM »

I phosphated my hinges and related parts in 95 and they still look good. i apply with a small artist brush gun oil. It will attract dust which will build up but all i do is once and while wash the parts off with hot soapy water and reapply the gun oil. You can use any kind of light grade oil as long as it is clear.If you know someone that has a tig welder you can buy a piece of sheet stainless steel and make your own pan.

Whitecoupe
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Mike S
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« Reply #15 on: March 03, 2012, 11:11:12 PM »

 I forgot to mention the oil I use is called Dri-Touch and is sold by Birchwood Casey. It goes on wet and dries to touch in a couple of days. This is good so it doesn't become a dust magnet by staying wet.

Mike
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67 LOS SS/RS L35 Hardtop - Original w/UOIT
67 NOR SS/RS L35 Convertible - Restored
tmodel66
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« Reply #16 on: March 04, 2012, 08:47:15 AM »

Does anybody use Fluid Film?
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Daniel  
'69 SS 350/4 speed  Fathom Green--POP
KevinW
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« Reply #17 on: March 05, 2012, 11:10:50 AM »

What I did on my driver's hinges (and other phosphated parts), was to use "stainless steel' spray bomb as the primer, then a light misting of cast blast.  Spray the cast blast far away from the hinge, you want a 'dry' looking coat, almost like it has imbedded dust.  keep applying dry coats of cast blast until the sheen (2-4 should do it) of the stainless steel is minimized and the color of the cast blast darkens the hinge.  My .02  I don't have a pic uploaded, nt sure if it would show accurately anyway Smiley
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68camaroz28
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« Reply #18 on: March 06, 2012, 07:32:05 PM »

I forgot to mention the oil I use is called Dri-Touch and is sold by Birchwood Casey. It goes on wet and dries to touch in a couple of days. This is good so it doesn't become a dust magnet by staying wet.

Mike
I will have to check that out Mike! Used the Birchwood Casey products (bluing) and they seem pretty good.
Does anybody use Fluid Film?
Never tried that Daniel. You use or know about it?
What I'm really liking so far and have used it a lot is 'Rust Prevention Magic'.
Super easy to use and have coated bare castings and no rust to date but time will tell.
http://ecsautomotive.com/rpm.php
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Chick
68 Z/28 NOR 01B Orig motor/trans/rear
69 Z/28 NOR 07A Orig Block & GM Cross-ram/carbs
69 L34 Rest. Nova Father/Son Car
69 L78 Surv Nova Purch 4/69 31K miles
67 L89 Corv Tribute
68 Corv 427/400 Orig motor
07 Corv Z06
R 68Z build- http://www.camaros.net/forums/showthread.php?t=182584
tmodel66
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« Reply #19 on: March 06, 2012, 07:44:21 PM »

Chick I've personally never used Fluid Film but heard good stuff about it thru the grape vine at a show last year.
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Daniel  
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68camaroz28
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« Reply #20 on: March 06, 2012, 07:55:26 PM »

Chick I've personally never used Fluid Film but heard good stuff about it thru the grape vine at a show last year.
OK and thanks Daniel....
By the way, just noticed the rust prevention magic won an award at this past years SEMA. Give it a try or at least check it out.
"ECS Automotive Concepts LLC is proud to announce that Rust Prevention Magic won the prestigious 2011 SEMA Global Media Award. RPM was selected by a panel of international media judges as one of the best new products at this year's SEMA show."
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Chick
68 Z/28 NOR 01B Orig motor/trans/rear
69 Z/28 NOR 07A Orig Block & GM Cross-ram/carbs
69 L34 Rest. Nova Father/Son Car
69 L78 Surv Nova Purch 4/69 31K miles
67 L89 Corv Tribute
68 Corv 427/400 Orig motor
07 Corv Z06
R 68Z build- http://www.camaros.net/forums/showthread.php?t=182584
68rs327conv
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« Reply #21 on: March 08, 2012, 06:32:01 AM »

Found this product on the web, has anyone every used the Dri-Touch products from Birchwood Casey, thinking of doing my front end components?

http://www.birchwoodcasey.com/rust/index.htm

Mike
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Mike
68 RS Conv 327/210hp, Powerglide Factory AC
Mike S
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« Reply #22 on: March 08, 2012, 09:54:26 AM »

Found this product on the web, has anyone every used the Dri-Touch products from Birchwood Casey, thinking of doing my front end components?

http://www.birchwoodcasey.com/rust/index.htm

Mike

I have been using it since the mid 80's. It goes on wet and dries in a couple of days. I apply it with an artist brush and spend about an hour dabbing bolt heads and other parts including phosphated components. I used to apply it twice a year but have been slacking off due to other interests. So there have been parts not done in years and still look great (no oxidation) so the film must still be there. I highly recommend it.

Mike
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67 LOS SS/RS L35 Hardtop - Original w/UOIT
67 NOR SS/RS L35 Convertible - Restored
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