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Author Topic: Stahl Step Headers ('69 Z28)  (Read 1140 times)
doomer
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« on: July 26, 2013, 02:48:26 PM »

This question is in response to an earlier statement that Jerry made. He recommended the Stahl #105 (new) step 1-5/8" to 1-3/4" step headers. Is there a reason that these are more desirable for a 1969 Z/28 than the #106 Original in 1-3/4"?

Shane
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cook_dw
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« Reply #1 on: July 26, 2013, 03:25:29 PM »

My experiences the 1 5/8 on the stepped allows for better low end torque and once you get into the rpms the 1 3/4 allows the exhaust to move out of the header.  A full 1 3/4 you loose the low end and with the 1 5/8 you leave a little on the table in the upper rpms.  So a good stepped header is a great street car header.
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Darrell Cook

1967 LeMans Blue SS/RS L35 clone
1968 Rallye Green SS L78 - unrestored original
1968 Matador Red Z28
BULLITT65
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« Reply #2 on: July 29, 2013, 06:48:42 PM »

wow, those headers are a bit pricey. Who has them for the best deal?
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1969 garnet red Z/28 46k mile unrestored X77
Looking for 3192477 (front) spiral shocks 3192851 (rear) please
Looking for an original LOF soft ray windshield
Looking for original Delco side post negative battery cable part # 6297651AV
68camaroz28
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« Reply #3 on: July 29, 2013, 09:47:28 PM »

I'm not so sure you would feel any difference on the street but at the dragstrip you would with the time-slip.
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Chick
68 Z/28 NOR 01B Orig motor/trans/rear
69 Z/28 NOR 07A Orig Block & GM Cross-ram/carbs
69 L34 Rest. Nova Father/Son Car
69 L78 Surv Nova Purch 4/69 31K miles
67 L89 Corv Tribute
68 Corv 427/400 Orig motor
07 Corv Z06
R 68Z build- http://www.camaros.net/forums/showthread.php?t=182584
BULLITT65
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« Reply #4 on: July 29, 2013, 10:05:09 PM »

well I am actually inquiring for another vehicle, I have a 64 C/10 with a 327 that is a little over 400 hp, I have some headman headers on it right now but they are only 1 1/2 primary tubes. The motor revs up a little higher than 8k, so similar to the 302. It would be nice to pick up a set of those headers for it. The price on the website is like $1200 though.....a bit much for me. the hedman were a little under $400.
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1969 garnet red Z/28 46k mile unrestored X77
Looking for 3192477 (front) spiral shocks 3192851 (rear) please
Looking for an original LOF soft ray windshield
Looking for original Delco side post negative battery cable part # 6297651AV
ban617
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« Reply #5 on: July 30, 2013, 12:54:54 AM »

The new 105 will not clear the reverse interlock arm on the steering column ... The arm can be cut off...
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cook_dw
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« Reply #6 on: July 30, 2013, 06:14:04 AM »

well I am actually inquiring for another vehicle, I have a 64 C/10 with a 327 that is a little over 400 hp, I have some headman headers on it right now but they are only 1 1/2 primary tubes. The motor revs up a little higher than 8k, so similar to the 302. It would be nice to pick up a set of those headers for it. The price on the website is like $1200 though.....a bit much for me. the hedman were a little under $400.


 I'm guess that 400hp is flywheel? A 1 5/8" primary tube header would work fine with your setup.  5-10 peak hp is not going to be noticed unless you have access to a chassis dyno, your car is consistent at the track or a very fine tuned buttometer..  As for the reverse lockout I do not know of any long tube header where it would be able to be used.  Just my experience & couple pennies worth..
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Darrell Cook

1967 LeMans Blue SS/RS L35 clone
1968 Rallye Green SS L78 - unrestored original
1968 Matador Red Z28
BULLITT65
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« Reply #7 on: July 30, 2013, 10:58:07 AM »

Thats 400 rear wheel hp. I was looking at some stainless steel headers they are around $850, but they do not step. I do like the idea of having the low rpm torque, and then still have the high rpm flow, but it isn't worth $400 more right now. The other thing I have to factor in right now is also clearance for my Z bar, I may switch to a 6 speed and slave cylinder in the near future though. So if I sell a few items and have some extra $, who sells the stahl for the best price, or can you only purchase through them? I appreciate the input
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1969 garnet red Z/28 46k mile unrestored X77
Looking for 3192477 (front) spiral shocks 3192851 (rear) please
Looking for an original LOF soft ray windshield
Looking for original Delco side post negative battery cable part # 6297651AV
cook_dw
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« Reply #8 on: July 30, 2013, 05:39:32 PM »

Honestly I am not aware of any dealers for Stahl.  Due to the fact that they custom build headers as well.  Thats not to say there isnt dealers; Im just not aware of any.  If I were a header company I would want the end user dealing directly with me to make sure the header fit the application and setup due to so many options and combinations.  Most people do not realize just how complicated headers can become with other aftermarket parts and components.  If you have aftermarket heads, mid plates and/or running a non conventional transmission then usually dealing with a company that is willing to build a header or knows their headers will work with certain components then that is your best bet to reduce the frustration factor.  I have built a few custom headers and I applaud the guys that have this ability cause I have seen some headers that are pure works of art.  Not to mention the fact that they also produce horsepower.


I personally would only run stainless if I were buying headers if I was planning on keeping the car for a long period of time.  They will last a very long time.  Only thing that really fatigues on stainless are the welded  areas but that is usually on headers that are supporting a turbo.  Most other applications they will last longer than the engine.  lol

What is your overall expectations with the car?  What do you want to ultimately do with it?  Street/strip or pure strip?
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Darrell Cook

1967 LeMans Blue SS/RS L35 clone
1968 Rallye Green SS L78 - unrestored original
1968 Matador Red Z28
jdv69z
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« Reply #9 on: July 31, 2013, 08:40:46 AM »

FYI, years ago when I installed Hooker Headers on my Z and had the interference with the reverse lockout, I took the original bellcrank (think that's what it is called) to work, and one of the guys made a copy out of 10 Ga I think. Then I installed the copy and noted where it interfered with the header. Heated it up and made about a 1" offset on the leg where the rod to the reverse lever goes. Installed everything and it works just fine while clearing the header. Original unmodified bellcrank is with my parts collection.
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Jimmy V.
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