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Author Topic: What rare part would you like to see a top quality reproduction produced?  (Read 6407 times)
Ramjett54
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« on: January 05, 2012, 05:35:23 PM »

After I finish my current career,  I would like to consider making some top quality reproduction parts for 1st gen Camaros. I am just curious as to where the community feels there are needs. I have read post where  Jerry M. is not happy with dash pads, I think there may be a void in n44 components,ie knuckle arms, drag and pit man arms. I recently was told that the deluxe seat emblems have been discontinued.
So the question is what top quality part would you like to see made?
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68Zproject
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« Reply #1 on: January 05, 2012, 05:59:07 PM »

I think a good start would be correct fasteners and headmarked bolts.
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« Reply #2 on: January 05, 2012, 06:01:35 PM »

Pillar Post Molding for '69 Coupe
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« Reply #3 on: January 05, 2012, 06:02:28 PM »

Factory correct HOSES, '69 Detent Cable, '69 Fiber Optic Ash Tray Light...hurry up and retire. Grin
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Ramjett54
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« Reply #4 on: January 05, 2012, 06:11:34 PM »

I think a good start would be correct fasteners and head-marked bolts.
Wow that's a good one!
 I would also like to see a website that would show the proper bolt per application, so that if you searched on say certain bolt location it would display an image with detailed description. This would be especially helpful for those basket-cases and guys trying to do concourse ready restorations.
I see a lot of post on here asking about the correct bolt colors etc
« Last Edit: January 05, 2012, 06:32:03 PM by Ramjett54 » Logged
x66 714
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« Reply #5 on: January 05, 2012, 06:40:21 PM »

How about correct weatherstrips for doors, roof rails etc?.....Joe
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« Reply #6 on: January 05, 2012, 06:53:07 PM »

I agree with the dash pads, but i would personally like to see pebble grained steerin wheels...
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Chris
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« Reply #7 on: January 05, 2012, 07:30:13 PM »

In order of my frustrations:
69 DASHPAD
horizontal door window felt
vertical weatherstrip for rear quarter windows

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« Reply #8 on: January 05, 2012, 07:34:16 PM »

Correct radiator tags.
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68Z28
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« Reply #9 on: January 05, 2012, 07:35:24 PM »

1969 Convertible windshield header pieces
1969 Door Jam Windlace
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« Reply #10 on: January 05, 2012, 08:34:27 PM »

You might want to call a lawyer first.

A few years back, I spoke wirh Rick George (Rick's Camaros original owner), for quite awhile on the same topic.  There were repros that were horrible that he wanted to do right, but coudn't because of legalities......

Good luck....
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Dusk_Blue_Z
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« Reply #11 on: January 05, 2012, 10:13:36 PM »

While people are airing stuff out, why hasn't anyone (namely Coker) designed a radial version of the original-looking tires?
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Ramjett54
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« Reply #12 on: January 05, 2012, 10:20:05 PM »

I agree with the dash pads, but i would personally like to see pebble grained steerin wheels...

Does anyone make them now.? If so I'm assuming poor quality.
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« Reply #13 on: January 05, 2012, 11:27:35 PM »

To my knowledge, nobody is reproducing the pebble grain wheel.
http://www.camaros.org/forum/index.php?topic=3759.0
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« Reply #14 on: January 06, 2012, 08:38:34 AM »

I have never seen a pebble grain steering wheel for sale as a reproduction part. I also like the idea of a better dash, I installed an OER and it looks and fits okay but could be better. Some folks have also mentioned weatherstripping, although it's been slowly getting better over the last few years, still there are no factory perfect reproductions available.
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Ramjett54
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« Reply #15 on: January 06, 2012, 09:03:48 AM »

I have never seen a pebble grain steering wheel for sale as a reproduction part. I also like the idea of a better dash, I installed an OER and it looks and fits okay but could be better. Some folks have also mentioned weatherstripping, although it's been slowly getting better over the last few years, still there are no factory perfect reproductions available.
I just replaced my cracked brittle oem door channel seals with Soft Seal brand, I now have a huge air gap caused by an inexplicable flat area that does not come close to sealing off to the glass. POS
Wish I had my cracked brittle OEM seal back Undecided
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« Reply #16 on: January 06, 2012, 03:35:55 PM »

  I'm in the middle of re-upholstering my Bucket Seats on my 67 Coupe.  Not finding the Pass. seat back stop cable anywhere.  Also not finding the plastic protector washer that goes between seat hinge and the seat cover at the pivot point.
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Mike C.    NW - Illinois
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« Reply #17 on: January 06, 2012, 04:23:22 PM »

Ordered some spark plug wire holders (the plastic part) and missed placed them. Went to Auto Zone to get something temporary. Got home and found the repops and they were the same thing. Also ordered some vent window locks for my GTO and the wrapper said 66-67 Chevelle. No wonder repops don,t fit.
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« Reply #18 on: January 06, 2012, 05:41:06 PM »

The small end pieces for the top trim on a fold down seat, but I doubt there's much demand.  Also air cleaner housing decals with the correct part number for K19 or K24 equipped cars.
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« Reply #19 on: January 08, 2012, 09:26:40 PM »

Early TH350 Kickdown cable, it seems mounted different 69 -70 to the intake.
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Mike C.    NW - Illinois
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« Reply #20 on: January 08, 2012, 11:02:56 PM »

186 heads, modern technology, 100 fit and form of original.
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Mike 1969 Grandma Camaro
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« Reply #21 on: January 09, 2012, 12:57:13 AM »

All of the above . And Bumpers and Bumper Guards, 69 voltage regulator and Horn Relay.


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MyRed67
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« Reply #22 on: January 09, 2012, 01:16:58 AM »

Oh, I forgot, been looking forever for the J-nut for the rear Bolt in my Front Bumper Brackets.  I have an "early" production '67 Sub-frame that doesn't have the Tie-Down holes.
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« Reply #23 on: January 09, 2012, 03:42:04 AM »

186 heads, modern technology, 100 fit and form of original.

http://www.castheads.com/disguise_work.php

Check it out.

-Mark.
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rsr
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« Reply #24 on: January 09, 2012, 07:56:46 AM »

 I'd hope to see a Endura bumper that fits and doesn't cost 2k along with rosewood steering wheels that look correct and don't crack. Almost every part made needs to be improved.
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« Reply #25 on: January 09, 2012, 12:58:00 PM »

Steering wheel centers that have both correct wood grain and more importantly, correct silver mylar trim and NOT just grey paint.  This may also include the gauge bezels as well as they are supposed to be silver trimmed but the repros I have seen simply use grey paint. 

Another item that comes to mind are wheel well moldings.  The NOS stuff is insane in price (that is if you can even find them) and the repro stuff just plain does not fit properly and looks horrible and breaks too easily.  If you have the correct tooling, these things can't be that expensive to make per piece but would sell for a good sum.  I had to pay over $400 for a decent set, had to put together a full set by dealing with two sellers and still only have three new ones that had the packaging trashed and the items scratched to heck, but at least were new and could be polished out and the fourth one is a used OE part that needs cleaning and buffing.  The sad thing is, I was happy to pay this money and go through the trouble to get these items as the alternative was repro (which isn't really an option), or not have them at all.  I bought a NOS set from Ricks back in 2002 and paid $150 for a complete set of 4 GM ones brand new.  Those days are gone. 

I am sure the list can be extensive and I find it amazing that after over 40 years of technology and know how, we still can not produce car parts as well as they did in the 60's. 
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« Reply #26 on: January 09, 2012, 06:13:36 PM »

 I am sure the list can be extensive and I find it amazing that after over 40 years of technology and know how, we still can not produce car parts as well as they did in the 60's. 


I agree. To me the sheet metal still has to have a big improvement to be correct
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« Reply #27 on: January 10, 2012, 11:35:18 AM »

Asked this question once myself regarding re-production sheet metal. John Z the explained what was involved in a typical press setup to make these sheet metal parts. A Part would run thru like 6 presses from start to finish. Then you also have the cost of the dies themselves. The only way to make this type of setup economical is to be making a ton of parts, like 200,000. Which is what GM was doing back then.

Jimmy V.
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« Reply #28 on: January 10, 2012, 12:06:21 PM »

Asked this question once myself regarding re-production sheet metal. John Z the explained what was involved in a typical press setup to make these sheet metal parts. A Part would run thru like 6 presses from start to finish. Then you also have the cost of the dies themselves. The only way to make this type of setup economical is to be making a ton of parts, like 200,000. Which is what GM was doing back then.

Jimmy V.
Yes that was based on the oem cost of sheet metal, a line of quality built metal to compete with NOS quality and pricing might be a different story, all NOS parts prices continue to climb and in a lot of cases are extinct. NOS quarters are now $1500 to $2000 each, just something to consider
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TODD
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« Reply #29 on: January 11, 2012, 08:48:05 AM »

All the above and a reproduction smog pulley, insanely high for an original and the repos are not even close to the gage and stampings

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69Z28freak
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« Reply #30 on: January 13, 2012, 01:57:28 PM »

186 heads, modern technology, 100 fit and form of original.

http://www.castheads.com/disguise_work.php

Check it out.

-Mark.

Thanks Mark. Nice heads, but pricey
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Mike 1969 Grandma Camaro
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« Reply #31 on: January 13, 2012, 06:19:48 PM »

While people are airing stuff out, why hasn't anyone (namely Coker) designed a radial version of the original-looking tires?
Because you'd probably end up with radial tires that handle worse than bias..
Radial are shaped like they are because the sidewall is designed to flex and "roll" in turns. Bias theory was to have a stiff and rigid sidewall.
Radials with a corner on them simply won't work.

Kick panels, A pillar moldings, most sheetmetal, most/all exterior moldings.. There are way too many parts to just choose one.
I'd love OER to go out of business. After a rotisserie restoration, I so hate them and their lies of original quality and fit. Their quality control is non-existant.
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« Reply #32 on: January 14, 2012, 02:20:39 AM »

Dash pad, pillar posts and console with CORRECT shade, color code 723 dark midnight green. Correct diameter ribbed and properly stamped hoses including smog. Smog Tubes.  ZL/2 Air Cleaner assembly. All other parts mentioned and what ever else we missed!
Happy New Year
LM69Z28
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69Z28freak
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« Reply #33 on: January 14, 2012, 06:49:16 PM »

While people are airing stuff out, why hasn't anyone (namely Coker) designed a radial version of the original-looking tires?
Because you'd probably end up with radial tires that handle worse than bias..
Radial are shaped like they are because the sidewall is designed to flex and "roll" in turns. Bias theory was to have a stiff and rigid sidewall.
Radials with a corner on them simply won't work.

Kick panels, A pillar moldings, most sheetmetal, most/all exterior moldings.. There are way too many parts to just choose one.
I'd love OER to go out of business. After a rotisserie restoration, I so hate them and their lies of original quality and fit. Their quality control is non-existant.

I agree
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Mike 1969 Grandma Camaro
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« Reply #34 on: January 14, 2012, 07:03:54 PM »

How about a nice repro rosewood steering wheel.
The stuff that's out there now absolutely sucks.....not even close. 
Heck, their not even close from 10 ft away.

I almost bought a GM one on eBay for over a grand, but slowly talked myself out of it.
They crack too easy.  A friend of mine got one for his Z....cracked one week later.
Can't depend on plastic parts that are 43 years old......

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« Reply #35 on: January 15, 2012, 12:32:35 PM »

I think a good start would be correct fasteners and headmarked bolts.

I'd have to 2nd & 3rd this one! Even a full size scale chart showing the correct fasteners, headmarked bolts, and AIM part numbers would be great!
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« Reply #36 on: January 15, 2012, 08:50:37 PM »

I think a good start would be correct fasteners and headmarked bolts.

I'd have to 2nd & 3rd this one! Even a full size scale chart showing the correct fasteners, headmarked bolts, and AIM part numbers would be great!

I bet neither of you have an AMK catalog or have shopped there..
You will find bolts with marking and GM numbers from the FAIM that cross-check with theirs.
I've been shopping there for near 10 years. Smiley

www.amkproducts.com
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« Reply #37 on: January 15, 2012, 09:52:23 PM »

YesÖI do know about AMK and have been on their website on several occasions. But when I cross reference different part numbers the same pic pops up for each one. Then when I try to expand the pic it fails to do so and I donít know what the heck Iím looking at or if itís even the correct fastener. And, how does anyone know if itís the correct fastener unless you the consumer had the correct fastener to begin with? Does a person simply trust what these guys say, make the purchase and move on? Nope not me, or Iíll have bin after bin of worthless parts I canít use. I have seen what is out there and its hit and miss at best, with each and every one of them. In fact, most of the seasoned hobbyists Iíve talked to agree, the only real accurate source at the present time is the local bone yard or swap meets. Doesnít leave much of an option does it?

As much information as there is out there for these cars, you would think someone would have come up with a book that describes each and every fastener (including pics) for all First Gens. Including how they correspond to the AIM / Fisher Body. And the same person who published the book also sells each and every fastener described in the book.
 
Oh well, itís nice to dream...
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« Reply #38 on: January 16, 2012, 01:39:02 AM »

Unless you go on a serious mission and document the fasteners on non-restored originals, how are you going to know what fasteners are correct anyway?
AMK are pretty good from my experience.. I haven't restored a concours car, but what I have been supplied by them to replace my old rusty OE stuff, -theirs is practically indentical in most/all cases. Also, I did learn that they are supplied by many the OEMs that made the fasteners in the first place.
Many OE part numbers are simply not available and they won't simply default to an incorrect substitute. That will be up to you do if you want to.  Smiley

Maybe your not finding convincing results because you're relying on uploaded pics on their website.
I have noticed that they will upload a pic of a particular bolt in one finish only, that covers several different finishes of that bolt and part numbers.
For example. B-12586 and B-12587 are exactly the same bolt in S2 and S8 finish. But they share the same pic on the website.

Download their catalog and print it, or ask them to post you one, or request when you order.
Their printed catalogs are in B+W. Downloading and printing one will be in color.  Wink

I am yet to find another supplier that comes even remotely as close to what they have. Heather is just great to deal with too.  Grin
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« Reply #39 on: January 16, 2012, 09:17:24 AM »

Maybe I didn't look at this company close enough. Their pdf as you've stated shows good pics and they also cross reference the AIM. I'll copy their pdf and compare their fasteners to what I know is factory on the car and go from there.
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« Reply #40 on: January 16, 2012, 01:42:39 PM »

AMK is good for replacements, but not always correct for restoration.  They're about 90% on but some of the headmarks are incorrect and they do not have many of the bolts or fasteners I've needed in specific applications.
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« Reply #41 on: January 16, 2012, 02:28:20 PM »

AMK is good for replacements, but not always correct for restoration.  They're about 90% on but some of the headmarks are incorrect and they do not have many of the bolts or fasteners I've needed in specific applications.

I've noticed the same exact thing. Although in my case it was <90%...I'll be getting information from guys who actually judge the high-end classes of the Camaro Nationals (Bow Tie Gold, Vintage, & Legend) with regards to their recommendations. If you'd like I can PM you the information once I have it.

My guess is you try to find as many factory and NOS pieces as possible and use companies like AMK to fill in the rest...
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« Reply #42 on: January 16, 2012, 07:19:00 PM »

http://www.camaros.org/forum/index.php?topic=5527.0

http://www.camaros.org/forum/index.php?topic=5528.0
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« Reply #43 on: January 16, 2012, 07:52:11 PM »

Ramjett54>>>>.
  Best of luck on your venture, you're probably starting to get the picture, there is a HUGE void.  And First Gen. are probably among the easiest to find parts for,,,,,,,just not good correct parts.
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« Reply #44 on: January 16, 2012, 08:24:37 PM »

Ramjett54>>>>.
  Best of luck on your venture, you're probably starting to get the picture, there is a HUGE void.  And First Gen. are probably among the easiest to find parts for,,,,,,,just not good correct parts.
Yea what I am seeing Is not many happy customers that just keep buying junk because there are no options.
Cheap repro vs expensive NOS
The  question is, will car guys pay the price for top quality parts.
 Can you make a top quality quarter panel and sell it for a $1000
Can you make a top quality  walnut Steering wheel  and sell it for $500

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« Reply #45 on: January 16, 2012, 10:19:50 PM »

Ramjett54>>>>.
  Best of luck on your venture, you're probably starting to get the picture, there is a HUGE void.  And First Gen. are probably among the easiest to find parts for,,,,,,,just not good correct parts.
Yea what I am seeing Is not many happy customers that just keep buying junk because there are no options.
Cheap repro vs expensive NOS
The  question is, will car guys pay the price for top quality parts.
 Can you make a top quality quarter panel and sell it for a $1000
Can you make a top quality  walnut Steering wheel  and sell it for $500


Good point, but all these companies had to do was make them right in the first place.........

If it were my company making parts, why go through all the research in engineering, manufacturing, marketing.....and make total junk ??
The best example of this is the latest & greatest Rosewood Wheel.......great color, but way too grainy, and the shape of the rim is not even close.....
Makes no sense to me, but that's exactly what we have in repro parts.......for the most part, they are all junk.......
Now on the flip side......the closest to nos parts are from Classic Headquaters.....IMHO....
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« Reply #46 on: January 17, 2012, 12:00:15 AM »

Word from a judge; "Legend Class must have factory fasteners. Bow Tie Class is more forgiving. AMK has a lot of parts". This particular judge has been working on a manual for years. Doesn't know when it will be completed. I for one would pay big bucks for a book like that.

Ken Lucas has good things to say about AMK. He said a lot of their products are exactly correct. They are the best available that he's found. Hard to ague a statement like that from one of the best, if not the best in the business of restoring these cars.

Bottom line; if you can't find all the original fasteners for your car on eBay, swap meets, or the bone yard, there's AMK. At least until someone else comes along with a better product.
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« Reply #47 on: January 17, 2012, 12:27:35 AM »

The  question is, will car guys pay the price for top quality parts.
 Can you make a top quality quarter panel and sell it for a $1000

Since when is a $1000 dollar 1/4 panel expensive? ..until you see the ill-fitting, thin, Chinese cheapie.

I bought an OER/Dynacorn tail panel for about $300. It didn't fit properly, but was made to fit well enough. ..and then the OER tail lights didn't fit in the OER/Dynacorn tail panel properly either. The reinforcing is placed all wrong and the tail lamps shape is bad too.
I had to spend a further $500 at the panel shop correcting this POS panel after it was fitted to my car and unfortunately, after it was painted.

Suddenly the oh-so-expensive USA made tail panel at HeartBeat City was an absolute bargain.
I almost hope that I get rear-ended, just to give me an excuse to remove that OER/Dynacorn crap off my car and replace it with quality.
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« Reply #48 on: January 17, 2012, 01:07:10 AM »

  I am doing a "Ground-up" resto on my 67, I have had to "massage" panels all the way.   Fortunately the tail-panel was in good shape, and I'm using good original Tail-light housings.  I had to replace both Quarter panels, my car had the mid-year indentations in the Door Jamb area, we improvised and cut the Door Jamb area out of the new 1/4 panel and spot welded it at the front edge of the fender.  Came out looking great, and the car still has the correct indentations.  But it caused a lot of extra work.
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« Reply #49 on: January 17, 2012, 06:58:34 PM »

You know, I'd like to see fasteners made correctly but I think before anything else, I'd like to see someone make quality rubber products. My weatherstrips cracked up way too quickly. For any repro parts, I believe equal attention needs to be given to the construction (compounds, metalurgy, processes) as to the appearance. I bought too many nice looking, almost correct parts that didn't last, if they didn't break upon installation. My car gets used a lot and does not always get to stay in a garage.
Build em for cars to be driven 30,000+ miles rain, shine or snow!

John.
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« Reply #50 on: January 17, 2012, 07:48:16 PM »

You know, I'd like to see fasteners made correctly but I think before anything else, I'd like to see someone make quality rubber products. My weatherstrips cracked up way too quickly. For any repro parts, I believe equal attention needs to be given to the construction (compounds, metalurgy, processes) as to the appearance. I bought too many nice looking, almost correct parts that didn't last, if they didn't break upon installation. My car gets used a lot and does not always get to stay in a garage.
Build em for cars to be driven 30,000+ miles rain, shine or snow!

John.

I'm with you on this one John. I have yet to get a "bolt on" reproduction part. Meaning nothing fits perfect, nothing is made with any quality. If they go to the trouble to reproduce why not go the little extra? Bolts are my least worry. Like Ed said earlier all bolts didn't come from one place and got mixed together so you'd really be hard pressed to get a perfect selection. But all the other parts that you use 1 piece as in door gasket are not worth putting on but what choice do we have.
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Daniel  
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« Reply #51 on: January 18, 2012, 12:17:04 PM »

The fuse box/panel under the dash.  I've spent lots of time and money fixing up my Camaro and this is the first part that I have not been able to find.  Also...seats that are completed where all I have to do is take out my old ones and bolt in the new ones.
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Sauron327
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« Reply #52 on: January 18, 2012, 12:54:32 PM »

The fuse box/panel under the dash.  I've spent lots of time and money fixing up my Camaro and this is the first part that I have not been able to find.  Also...seats that are completed where all I have to do is take out my old ones and bolt in the new ones.
With all the years, seat and color options this would not be cost effective. That's why parts are sold individually and building a car is left to the owner. Reupolstering is not difficult. And because shop prices vary by location, vendor prices would most likely be on the high side.
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69Z28-RS
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« Reply #53 on: January 18, 2012, 12:58:27 PM »

someone above wrote:  
"Good point, but all these companies had to do was make them right in the first place........   If it were my company making parts, why go through all the research in engineering, manufacturing, marketing.....and make total junk ?? "

What makes you think that these reproduction *companies spent any $$ on engineering, manufacturing, marketing, etc?    All most of them did was *copy* an old GM part... without considering all the dimensional changes a part goes thru or any other 'engineering' criteria...

Someone else wrote:
"I'm with you on this one John. I have yet to get a "bolt on" reproduction part. Meaning nothing fits perfect, nothing is made with any quality. If they go to the trouble to reproduce why not go the little extra? "

... because all those *extras of engineering, testing, prototyping, proper manufacture, etc' is NOT a 'little extra'..  it's a LOT extra...  which is why they don't/can't do it....

The bottom line is that a good restorer is much better off to find 'decent original parts' and rework/restore them whenever possible and only use 'aftermarket/repro' parts when it's a necessity, and not becuase it's *easier/quicker/cheaper*....
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Gary W.  /  69Z28-RS, 72 B 720 cowl console rosewood all tint
69 Corvette convertible, silver/black 350 hp,
60 Corvette white/red, 72 Corvette coupe (2), 
90 ZR1 red/red #246, 90 ZR1 white/gray #2466
72 El Camino, '55 Nomad, '57 Nomad, '57 B/A Sedan
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« Reply #54 on: January 18, 2012, 05:01:08 PM »

The fuse box/panel under the dash.

AmericanAutoWire aka M.Parker aka Factory Fit make them for their looms, but they refuse to sell them separately.
I bought mine from them along with a bunch of unique to Camaro electrical connectors way back when they were willing to do better business and help me out.. Back when Skip worked there.. But they are far less co-operative these days it seems.
Saved me buying all new LHD dash engine and headlamp looms and chopping them up for RHD.
Thanks again Skip!!
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Restoring my RHD 69 Jane in Melbourne, Australia.
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« Reply #55 on: January 19, 2012, 07:13:05 AM »

The fuse box/panel under the dash.  I've spent lots of time and money fixing up my Camaro and this is the first part that I have not been able to find.  Also...seats that are completed where all I have to do is take out my old ones and bolt in the new ones.
Special order here: http://www.lectriclimited.com/repair_components.htm
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joesauer
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« Reply #56 on: January 19, 2012, 12:30:13 PM »

Stop cable for passenger seat. 
1968 custom interior-seat emblem backing plates.
1968 non RS grill that fits.
1968 custom interior walnut grain center bezel (that does not use ill fitting contact paper).

What's your manufacturing capability going to be?  Cost big bucks to get the tooling & quality right.
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x66 714
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« Reply #57 on: January 27, 2012, 05:08:18 PM »

How about Yellow Houndstooth/vinyl seat upholstery that's correct?Huh....Joe
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See America's First, Chevrolet

1968 Z/28 Corvette Bronze. Black Hounds Tooth. 02E Los Angeles born 3/13/1968
1969 SS396 Yellow/Yellow 08E Norwood born 8/28/1969
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« Reply #58 on: January 27, 2012, 05:17:05 PM »

Even the black and white stitching is not like the original, also the deluxe seat emblems are no longer being made 
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rod396
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« Reply #59 on: May 29, 2012, 03:49:48 AM »

I realize I am a few months late on this one, but as far as the repro parts issues, the body/glass weatherstrips are surely an area which has a tremendous influence on the overall finished product.
My experiences with repro weatherstrips go back 15 + years to my 55-57 Chevy era. The only thing you could do was adjust the door strikers in all the way, slam the heck out of the door, and let the car sit in the sun for a week. the same procedure had to be applied to a '63 Ford Falcon Sprint; the products I used were from the "best" manufacturers.
It seems that very little, if any has changed with the materials/manufacturing methods of these products.
Exterior trim quality also leaves a lot to be desired.
Dash pads, sheetmetal, the list could go on to pretty much cover the entire spectrum of what is available reproduction for these (and all other special interest vehicles for that matter).
I have long since "had it" with reading the same old cliches "made from factory tooling" (yeah, right, how did you get your hands on that, not to mention shipping the mega-ton stamping die all the way to china!), "official licensed XX product"; it sure does'nt show in your final product, or is it a reflection of the slave-like wages which do very little to influence  the Chinese workers' incentive to produce a quality product.
  For the past few years, I have been watching people pay exorbitant prices on ebay for N.O.S. parts that the final bid is 5, 10, sometimes 20 times that of the current available repro part.
This says a lot about the knowledge of the quality of the repro parts.
  The restoration hobby/industry is a bit more tightly-knitted than say, the discount auto parts store items many of us buy; major chain store repro water pumps, etc; if you have to hog out a bracket to make the thing fit, you probably will do just that; most people just want to keep their everyday A-to-B cars functioning, and will probably forget about the issues associated with the low-priced alternative parts.
But in this hobby, a lot of cars you see at the show have been put together by the owner present. People talk, as evidenced by this popular topic on this particular forum, for example.

  I am not rich, but if someone (and that someone could be you) were to make, for example, wheel opening moldings, which were proven (by the end consumer, which would be a strong advertising point) to be identical in:
1.Fit
2.Quality of anodized finish
3.Material gauge of and same materials
All of these parameters are based on the original G.M. article.
  People would either be standing in line, or budgeting for your product at nearly TWICE the price of what is currently on the market, and you would be enjoying, because you earned it, a FAVORABLE REPUTATION, a status it seems that has been ditched in favor of the almighty buck, (China/Taiwan) at least for this particular industry.
  Follow the same principles to this and to the rest of whatever you produce, and keep it as proportionally price justifiable/affordable as possible and you can't go wrong.
  If you do follow-through with this venture, please, we certainly do not need any more (no names necessary) inferior parts manufacturers/suppliers/vendors.
  Personally, I have 2 1st gen Camaros that I have been collecting parts for, for over 7 years, either good/restorable/replatable OEM and NOS parts. Repro parts will be purchased as a last resort, based on my 55-57 and other experiences, and these will be items that will be installed near the end of the restoration, with hopes that by time this happens, there would have been a major change in the quality of repro parts.
Or, I am able to afford $1,300.00 for a pair of N.O.S. door weatherstrips.
Beacuse there sure isn't anything as good at this time.

My level of standards are not for everybody, but when you start talking about repro parts quality, again, it certainly generates a lot of interest.
Just my 2 cents.
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firstgenaddict
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« Reply #60 on: September 27, 2012, 01:36:38 PM »

I can't imagine the latex covered foam weatherstripping being that difficult to make in small quantities. The autoclav for vulcanizing the rubber seems as though it would be the most difficult part of the process other than the actual making of the molds...
I can tell you I would pay $1000 with out hesitation for (2) roofrails and (2) door seals. Given the price of the NOS ones $1500 would be a decent deal if you couldn't tell them from NOS!
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James
Collectin' Camaro's since "Only Rednecks drove them"
 
Check out the Black 69 RS/Z28 45k mile Survivor and the Lemans Blue 69 Z 10D frame off...
https://picasaweb.google.com/112392262205377424364/1969_Z28_Restoration
Ramjett54
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« Reply #61 on: September 27, 2012, 03:57:10 PM »

Jim, your comment reflects the thinking that inspired my question originally.
There are guys like us who will pay for quality, so why is the marketplace so barren of 
quality replacements? To add to the frustration we are just trying to meet the oem standard
which is not that high a bar, with today's manufacturing processes you could far exceed most oem parts in both tolerance and quality
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firstgenaddict
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« Reply #62 on: September 27, 2012, 06:00:18 PM »

Not many of the early guys recognized the differences PLUS the reproduction quality steadily improved, it's only when "we collectors and restorers" decide to be exacting and/or demand exactness that the market for absolute correctness was created. Until the cars reached 40-50k few people cared about original interiors, latex covered weatherstripping etc, nor would the market have supported them as there were too few people willing to pay for the quality and engineering required to produce the correct part.

Anything can be reproduced... how big is the bank account and what's your D&B number... lol
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James
Collectin' Camaro's since "Only Rednecks drove them"
 
Check out the Black 69 RS/Z28 45k mile Survivor and the Lemans Blue 69 Z 10D frame off...
https://picasaweb.google.com/112392262205377424364/1969_Z28_Restoration
bc69
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« Reply #63 on: June 17, 2014, 10:56:48 PM »

69 kick down cable. Nobody makes one.
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Brad
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