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Author Topic: Engine Detailing "Tricks"?  (Read 6504 times)
IZRSSS
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« Reply #15 on: December 25, 2011, 07:37:35 PM »

Its called; "Nano Wheel Polish", and you can find it at Auto Zone. I think I've tried all the "good ones" and I've had the best luck with this stuff. Leaves a great finish and I use it on all my metal finishes/trim. Just keep away from your lids sticker.
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lakeholme
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« Reply #16 on: December 26, 2011, 08:48:22 AM »

Great, Marty, thanks!
Ditto on Nano.
Does anyone rinse with filtered water?. Does it really leave surfaces spot free?
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Phillip
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Planning 2016 Sentimental Tour, AACA (and restoring a 40 Buick Special for it)
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"Charlotte AutoFair, presented by the Hornets Nest Region, AACA, is the largest and greatest Collector Vehicle Event in the Southeast USA."
tmodel66
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« Reply #17 on: December 26, 2011, 09:26:54 AM »

Thanks for the heads up on Nano. Do you use it on Rocker Molding also?
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Daniel  
'69 SS 350/4 speed  Fathom Green--POP
68camaroz28
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« Reply #18 on: December 26, 2011, 09:46:33 AM »

Great, Marty, thanks!
Ditto on Nano.
Does anyone rinse with filtered water?. Does it really leave surfaces spot free?

You the man Marty and thank you! X2 on the filtered water as I was looking at different filter options last year and want to complete this year.
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Chick
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IZRSSS
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« Reply #19 on: December 26, 2011, 10:36:06 AM »

It works great on aluminum, chrome, and SS. However, you are going to learn to hate your rocker moldings. They scratch if you breath on them too hard. I find myself having to buff them out at least 3 times a year. Oh, and only handle w/microfiber. If it gets to combersome I think I'll start removing them after each show.  Undecided

Your welcome Chick!

Just one last thought. I'm sure you know this already but just in case...

I don't think the article included what Salvo does to detail underneath the engine, or the car. The first time I did this took about 2wks and several cases of paper towels and two gallons of degreaser. I decided real quickly after that, this car would not be driven under adverse weather conditions period. Now I do it once or twice a year, and it only takes about 5hrs to do the entire underside.

After completing the engine top-side (never clean the bottom first or you’ll be spinning your wheels) I jack-up and remove one front tire at a time. This gives me access to everything from the front suspension assembly to everything underneath/midway from the front of the car to the front of the drive shaft. Then it’s just a matter of switching sides and repeating the same process. Once this is completed I move to the quarters. Compared to the front half, this is a breeze and goes by pretty quick. By then, my back and knees are on their last leg.

BTW…one of the handiest tools I have is the tooth brush w/wire handle. Just take spare t-brush and a stiff wire (cloth hanger…my wife started buying plastic hangers so she wouldn’t run out). Heat the wire and guide it into the handle. If it becomes loose, simply epoxy it in place.
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lakeholme
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« Reply #20 on: December 26, 2011, 02:14:54 PM »

Marty, how about that.  I use a test tube brush with a flexible handle to do the same thing.  Again, thanks for the info.  It's obvious that you worked hard on thi sduring the holidays!
I'm going to study the Slick Stixx brushes mentioned in the article.  If amyone has them, how about sharing your thoughts,

So, Chick, what's your conclusion about filtered water?  I used to have a black on black little English sportscar and it showed spots no matter what I did. (Of course, that's what you get with a black car.)
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Phillip
HNR-AACA, Senior Master
Planning 2016 Sentimental Tour, AACA (and restoring a 40 Buick Special for it)
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"Charlotte AutoFair, presented by the Hornets Nest Region, AACA, is the largest and greatest Collector Vehicle Event in the Southeast USA."
IZRSSS
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« Reply #21 on: December 26, 2011, 02:40:33 PM »

Marty, how about that.  I use a test tube brush with a flexible handle to do the same thing.  Again, thanks for the info.  It's obvious that you worked hard on thi sduring the holidays!

Cool. I think I like you’re idea better.

You weren't supposed to notice that. I just hate leaving things in limbo, and It's what happens when you work harder instead of smarter. Come to find out I do know how to transfer the info into PDF format. The problem I have is freeing it up to use on sites like this. PDF's are very finicky about stuff like that.
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mickeystoys69RSSS
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« Reply #22 on: December 27, 2011, 06:57:57 PM »

Great infomation in this thread thanks for posting and I will save it for future reference.
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lakeholme
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« Reply #23 on: December 27, 2011, 07:13:23 PM »

How about others? What cleaning agents, tools, etc. do you use for engine detailing? Do you get good results? Any special tips?
  Huh  Grin  Huh
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Phillip
HNR-AACA, Senior Master
Planning 2016 Sentimental Tour, AACA (and restoring a 40 Buick Special for it)
AACA Southeastern Division Spring Meet Chair
"Charlotte AutoFair, presented by the Hornets Nest Region, AACA, is the largest and greatest Collector Vehicle Event in the Southeast USA."
Dave69x33
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« Reply #24 on: December 29, 2011, 10:46:44 AM »

A tip I use to detail items on my 69 Camaro Z28 such as bolts and hardware, brackets, and and any item that is plated such as the hood hinges, hood catch, etc., is to wipe them with a light smear of bearing grease then wipe them with a shop towel or paper towel.  I keep the same wipe down shop rag, 1" paint brush, and a tooth brush in a zip-lock bag.  During my spring oil change (typically in March in prep for the spring and summer show season), I also detail under the hood, chassis, and floor boards (bottom side of the car) with products like Fantastik and Mequiar's Quick Mist & Wipe Detailer. 

I got this tip from some guys who restore and maintain Ford Model A’s which had many unpainted parts.  The grease applies a light barrier to rust, and keeps the item looking almost new. 

For an example, the rear leaf springs were originally heat treated bare steel, the drive shafts tubes were plain steel, and the steering box was plain cast iron. I use compress air to blow any debris off the leaf springs and steering gear box then use my “grease detail kit” to brush and wipe the springs, steering gear box, drive shaft, etc.  I finished my Camaro restoration in 2000 and the springs, steering gear box, and drive shaft still look very good.

By the way, I do DRIVE my car to local shows (it the weather is dry) but trailer it to out of town shows.

Have a Happy New Year...and happy detailing!
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lakeholme
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« Reply #25 on: December 29, 2011, 03:36:11 PM »

Thanks! Great tip! Those pictures do look factory fresh.
Does a cleanser like Fantastik leave any residue spots or do you wipe it twice?
« Last Edit: December 29, 2011, 04:12:03 PM by lakeholme » Logged

Phillip
HNR-AACA, Senior Master
Planning 2016 Sentimental Tour, AACA (and restoring a 40 Buick Special for it)
AACA Southeastern Division Spring Meet Chair
"Charlotte AutoFair, presented by the Hornets Nest Region, AACA, is the largest and greatest Collector Vehicle Event in the Southeast USA."
lakeholme
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« Reply #26 on: December 29, 2011, 04:30:56 PM »

How about engine bay dressings like Sonus or Griots? Anyone use those?
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Phillip
HNR-AACA, Senior Master
Planning 2016 Sentimental Tour, AACA (and restoring a 40 Buick Special for it)
AACA Southeastern Division Spring Meet Chair
"Charlotte AutoFair, presented by the Hornets Nest Region, AACA, is the largest and greatest Collector Vehicle Event in the Southeast USA."
sdkar
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« Reply #27 on: December 30, 2011, 10:02:09 PM »

For terrific step by step instructions as well as product recommendations and tools, check out autogeek.net and click on auto detailing how to.  Mike Phillips is the guy who put this together and even wrote a how to book that I highly recommend.  His instructions are super easy to follow and best of all, his advice is easy to follow and directed for the amateur as well as the pros.  He even has details on procedures that can almost guarantee you won't hurt the paint if you mess up. 

Check it out, I promise you won't be disappointed.

For the engine:
http://www.autogeek.net/engine-guide.html

For the whole car:
http://www.autogeek.net/detailingtips.html


Steve
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Dave69x33
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« Reply #28 on: December 31, 2011, 08:59:46 AM »

lakeholme,

I use Fantastic on the floor board bottom side painted surfaces to remove any stubborn dirt and any grease splatter from the universal joints, etc.  I then wipe the surface with a dry towel or t-shirt and it has not harmed the painted finish.  Test a spot first to make sure it does not harm or burnish your painted surface.  I don't use the Fantastic on the items that I have previously applied a grease film to.  This is where I would use a detailing brush, tooth brush, and compressed air to remove any debris.  Rubbing the part with the grease rag tend to also clean it.

For under the hood, I use compressed air to blow away dust and dirt, followed by Meguiar's Mist & Wipe Detailer if needed, and then wipe with an old soft baby dipper or a mirco fiber towel.  On rubber and plastic parts, I like to use Meguiar's Supreme Shine Hi-Gloss Protectant.  I spray the protectant on an old athletic sock then rub the area followed by wiping the item or surface with a t-shirt so the item does not look too shiny.  I use the protectant on the interior vinyl which does not leave a greasy film.

If you are concerned about using these tips on your Camaro, practice these tips to detail your wife’s car first.  With all those that-a-boy points, you’ll get to spend an entire weekend under the hood and chassis of your Camaro!

sdkar,

Thanks for the links on detailing.
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tmodel66
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« Reply #29 on: December 31, 2011, 10:04:35 AM »

Has anybody used Meguire's  Back to Black  on rubber and plastic? I've heard good stuff about it under hood, tires, door gaskets and such. Supposedly no residue and not too shiny.
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Daniel  
'69 SS 350/4 speed  Fathom Green--POP
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