Author Topic: Correct shifter  (Read 19107 times)

bobvickers

  • Member
  • ***
  • Posts: 22
    • View Profile
Correct shifter
« on: June 09, 2006, 11:24:05 PM »
The shifter that is in our 67 SS-350 is a Hurst. From what we read it should be a Muncie. Can anyone tell us if the Hurst unit came from the factory in some cars?

Thanks in advance

Bob

gro51

  • Member
  • ***
  • Posts: 234
  • 68 SS/RS 350
    • View Profile
Re: Correct shifter
« Reply #1 on: June 10, 2006, 12:03:39 AM »
Bob - I'm almost certain the SS 350s all came with Muncies.  Can anyone back me up on this?
Joe
Schodack, NY

'68 SS/RS 350, M21, 3:73, Rallye Green, Black Deluxe Interior

william

  • CRG Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 3134
    • View Profile
Re: Correct shifter
« Reply #2 on: June 10, 2006, 12:09:02 AM »
No Hurst shifter '67 or '68. Should have the POS Inland shifter with the "MUNCIE" embossing on the lever.

Finding all the parts, rods, levers to put an original shifter together will be difficult.
Learning more and more about less and less...

gro51

  • Member
  • ***
  • Posts: 234
  • 68 SS/RS 350
    • View Profile
Re: Correct shifter
« Reply #3 on: June 10, 2006, 12:19:32 AM »
Classic Industries and others now have a repro shifter (which includes the rods and levers) for $199.  It even has "MUNCIE" stamped on the handle like the original.  I bought one and even though I think it's made in Japan, it looks real good.  It's made for a console car, which I believe is different from the non-console muncie shifter.  I haven't installed it yet so I can't tell you how well it works.
Joe
Schodack, NY

'68 SS/RS 350, M21, 3:73, Rallye Green, Black Deluxe Interior

bobvickers

  • Member
  • ***
  • Posts: 22
    • View Profile
Re: Correct shifter
« Reply #4 on: June 10, 2006, 10:16:50 PM »
William:
            Can you explain "POS Inland Shifter". Do you have a picture

william

  • CRG Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 3134
    • View Profile
Re: Correct shifter
« Reply #5 on: June 11, 2006, 01:00:54 AM »
Inland Mfg was a supplier to the auto industry and manufactured the infamous "Muncie" shifter.

It had a number of design, engineering and manufacturing inadequacies, the most egregious being that it was not mounted on the transmission but to the trans crossmember. Under hard acceleration the engine/trans would twist slightly causing the shifter to bind. After a few hard shifts the knob mounting stud would snap off, perhaps sending your hand into the dash. With age the reverse slider, all of 1/8" thick at the gate, would break and rotate forward preventing shifting to reverse. Even when new neutral was hard to find. Cars built with a console had the shifter area covered with a black plastic plate that moved with the shifter. It would rattle and was immediately scratched and worn.

Just about every period magazine road test of a 4-speed Chevy complained about the shifter. If I bought a flawless original 67 or 68 Camaro that still had it I would remove it.

POS = piece of crap

Learning more and more about less and less...

bobvickers

  • Member
  • ***
  • Posts: 22
    • View Profile
Re: Correct shifter
« Reply #6 on: June 12, 2006, 12:05:13 AM »
Thanks William.
           Maybe we will leave the Hurst in the car


Bob

x77-69z28

  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 1058
    • View Profile
Re: Correct shifter
« Reply #7 on: June 13, 2006, 01:14:00 AM »
the high performance cars, ss-350 and l-78 cars said muncie on the shifter. the base models did not. william is right, they were junk. if you are not worried about originality, leave the hurst. much better unit.
69 Z/28 X77 burnished brown, 711 int 05A bought in 78
70 Z28 forrest green, green int, M40, bk vinyl roof PROJECT
99 SS hugger orange 6spd NO TTOPS bought new 1 of 54
15 z/28 Arctic white, A/C 505 HP #251

william

  • CRG Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 3134
    • View Profile
Re: Correct shifter
« Reply #8 on: June 13, 2006, 01:54:35 AM »
Actually there is a way to have your cake and eat it too.

An original "MUNCIE" lever can be reworked to fit a Hurst shifter. Takes some patience as it is case-hardened. I'm not certain the Camaro lever works the best for this but there were a number of MUNCIE handles for various applications.
Learning more and more about less and less...

nuch_ss396

  • Member
  • ***
  • Posts: 265
    • View Profile
Re: Correct shifter
« Reply #9 on: June 13, 2006, 06:04:11 PM »
Guys,

There is another way to go - possibly.  I read somewhere ( online ) that possibly Ground Up makes a Hurst/Muncie amalgamation
shifter.  The handle is Muncie, but the body is Hurst.  I don't think I'm crazy either.  See if such a thing is available.  You get a
stock look with the Hurst guts!

Steve
69 SS 396, Hugger Orange, D/80, D/90
Chambered Exhaust, N/66, THM400, 3:73 posi

Steve A.
  CRG

Rod67

  • Member
  • ***
  • Posts: 22
    • View Profile
Re: Correct shifter
« Reply #10 on: June 15, 2006, 05:36:08 PM »
I remember someone saying that dealerships used Hurst shifters as replacements when Muncies flew apart. Don't know if there is any truth to that or not.

Rod

Steve68

  • CRG Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 521
    • View Profile
Re: Correct shifter
« Reply #11 on: June 17, 2006, 01:05:14 AM »
Bob

My original Muncie (68) is attached to my original M22 which is attached to my original L78. :)  I can tell you that it has held up VERY well over the years.  It has seen some pretty tough use including power shifts that where smooth and quick (a given if you want to keep the engine   ;D).  An exception?  Maybe.  I can say with all honesty that the only thing that got trashed from the use of the Muncie were the Boss Mustangs, Hemi's, etc. ;D   For what it's worth, I plan on keeping mine in my original 68.

Steve

william

  • CRG Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 3134
    • View Profile
Re: Correct shifter
« Reply #12 on: June 18, 2006, 05:05:20 PM »
My experience with Muncie shifters is based on 36 years of experience with 1st gen Camaros. I was involved with a Camaro business for 15 years and dismantled many factory Muncie shifters in a effort to acquire enough good parts to assemble a useable unit for a customer that just had to have one.

In that time I never saw a factory Hurst unit that needed more than cleaning and linkage bushings.

A nearby parts store had a sign:

"There are two kinds of oats. Fresh oats, and oats that have already been through the horse. The latter are much cheaper."

Muncie shifters have already been through the horse.
Learning more and more about less and less...

firstgenaddict

  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 2882
  • caretaker of 1971 LT1's 11130 & 21783
    • View Profile
    • Groome Family Automobiles
Re: Correct shifter
« Reply #13 on: June 25, 2006, 02:56:33 AM »
Wasn't there a problem with the muncie shifters binding up as well?
They were bolted to the crossmember or the floor or something... the hurst was bolted to the trans and even if the trans moved under heavy torque the shifter geometry stayed the same where as the Muncie geometry changed and bound if the trans twisted... seems like the problem would be negligable with a new trans mount... however if the mount got sloppy... shifting could get a little hairy,
James
Collectin' Camaro's since "Only Rednecks drove them"
Current caretaker of 1971 LT1's - 11130 and 21783 Check out the Black 69 RS/Z28 45k mile Survivor and the Lemans Blue 69 Z 10D frame off...
https://plus.google.com/photos/112392262205377424364/albums?banner=pwa

RickH

  • Member
  • ***
  • Posts: 106
    • View Profile
Re: Correct shifter
« Reply #14 on: June 26, 2006, 08:21:57 PM »
LOL, jumping to the end of thread not good. Already answered above.  ;D
.

 
Wasn't there a problem with the muncie shifters binding up as well?
They were bolted to the crossmember or the floor or something... the hurst was bolted to the trans and even if the trans moved under heavy torque the shifter geometry stayed the same where as the Muncie geometry changed and bound if the trans twisted... seems like the problem would be negligable with a new trans mount... however if the mount got sloppy... shifting could get a little hairy,

68rsssrag

  • Member
  • ***
  • Posts: 134
    • View Profile
Re: Correct shifter
« Reply #15 on: June 27, 2006, 05:42:14 AM »
i've gone through 3 of the NOS GM Muncies in 80K miles. they are Ok till the wear happens in the plates. i always diassemble them and use Luibripalte and they work well if you adjust them well.

The only difference in the shifter is the lever with MUNCIE cast in the lever , GM replacements came without stamping.

Arno

bobvickers

  • Member
  • ***
  • Posts: 22
    • View Profile
Re: Correct shifter
« Reply #16 on: June 28, 2006, 12:40:59 PM »
We have decided to put the Muncie shifter back in the car. We have all the parts including the "Strut Rod". My question is: Does anyone have a picture of how the strut rod is attached?


Thanks

Bob

bertfam

  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 4492
    • View Profile
Re: Correct shifter
« Reply #17 on: June 28, 2006, 02:44:47 PM »
Bob,

Have you checked the Assembly Manual? I know the 68 has the exploded diagram. Not sure about the 67...

Ed

dans67camaro

  • Member
  • ***
  • Posts: 44
    • View Profile
Re: Correct shifter
« Reply #18 on: September 19, 2006, 12:30:43 AM »
I agree from experience with all the above re: originality and function of the Muncie shifter. I had a 1967 RS/SS in 1967 when I entered college (GMI). Those were the late 60's and 70's and drag racing on the streets and hard shifting was the order of the day. The only problem I had with my Muncie was that it would sometimes hang up between 2nd and 3rd. Then you couldn't shift at all! Many times I was under the car after two many drinks, late at night, with a hot date trying to free the linkage up. However, today I have an identical car (not the same one) that I had in 67. Although it has a Hurst in it, I will be putting a Muncie in to make it original. Good luck with yours! Dan