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Author Topic: SB Exhaust Manifold Removal  (Read 1961 times)
IZRSSS
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« on: June 18, 2011, 02:35:59 PM »

I need to remove the Exhaust Manifold in my SB 350 to dress up the block & exhaust. Biggest obstacle seems to be the A/C compressor.

 1. Can this be done w/o major surgery?
 2. What problems might I run into?
 3. Can all parts be re-used?
 4. What manifold dress-up kits do you recommend?

Thanks
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jacmac
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« Reply #1 on: June 18, 2011, 08:32:50 PM »

Just unbolt the compressor, leave the hoses attached & pull it out of the way.Im assuming your compressor is on the left side of the engine & evaparator housing is on the right side.Im sure you have a little more clearance than a big block does.Sorry im not much help,AC is nice to have but I wish my car didnt have it,its a big PITA to work on the engine compartment,always something in the way AC related.I just used some high temp paint on the manifolds,seems to have held up pretty well.As far as the evap housing not sure Huh I hope I never have t remove it again! Good luck!
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69 Z10,72 corvette
IZRSSS
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« Reply #2 on: June 18, 2011, 08:58:25 PM »

Jack,

Thanks for getting this started. Now that you mention it, the compressor seems to be the least of my problems. My main concern are the bolts. My guess is to use plenty of lubricant & if I'm lucky enough to get them off without snapping the heads, set them aside and replace with new bolts...or inspect, recondition & use the same bolts? Just in case, does anyone sell correct replacement bolts? Next, can I reuse the flange's & donut's? Am I leaving anything out? And...last, has anyone ever used the stuff sold by some suppliers "Manifold Dressing"? Or is high temperature paint or Prestone Brake Cleaner the way to go?
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Boston14
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« Reply #3 on: June 19, 2011, 12:53:12 PM »

Marty,

I would replace the bolts, they are most likely stretched and pitted.  AMK sells the correct bolts.  The gasket for the heat riser and the donut gaskets are available from any jobber. The flanges should be OK, check for thinning. 
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boston14

1969 RS/SS 350 Convertible
Dover White with Black Top and D90 stripe, Red Standard Interior
IZRSSS
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« Reply #4 on: June 19, 2011, 01:34:50 PM »

Much appreciated Robert! I can't remember but does your car have A/C? Reason...any problems with the evap housing getting in the way?
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Boston14
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« Reply #5 on: June 19, 2011, 08:02:08 PM »

Marty,
      My car is a non-A/C convertable.  However, I have done manifolds on A/C cars.  The evap. housing makes things a lot tighter, but with patience, a good 6 point 9/16" wrench and socket, I am sure you can handle it.  A lift also helps. Remember to take your time and don't get frustrated.

boston14
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boston14

1969 RS/SS 350 Convertible
Dover White with Black Top and D90 stripe, Red Standard Interior
IZRSSS
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« Reply #6 on: June 20, 2011, 02:46:12 PM »

And...last, has anyone ever used the stuff sold by some suppliers "Manifold Dressing"? Or is high temperature paint or Prestone Brake Cleaner the way to go?

...Or is it best to sandblast, coat with something like Calyx & touch-up once or twice a year... Huh
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Kelley W King
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« Reply #7 on: June 20, 2011, 03:01:37 PM »

I sand blasted some and used high temp cast blast paint. If you read the instructions it says bake them before and after painting. I did not have a oven son I set them on jackstands in front a kerosene heater. If you let it blow into the exhaust pipe hole they will get really hot. Use serious gloves while working. My brothers vette has probably 1,000 miles on them and they look good.
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69 Z28 RS Scuncio Hi Performance
69 SS L78
67 SS Chevelle
64 Corvette
66 GTO Tiger Gold
77 Trans Am Special Edition
IZRSSS
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« Reply #8 on: June 20, 2011, 03:22:45 PM »

Kelley,

I'm glad you chimed in. Excellent idea and I have a propane heater that should work like a champ.

Thanks!
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lakeholme
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« Reply #9 on: June 21, 2011, 08:31:01 AM »

Marty,
I used Calyx on mine over a year ago and they still look "factory". I have driven it on two long trips since cleaning. I'm not saying you shouldn't treat them. I just prefer original.
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Phillip
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IZRSSS
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« Reply #10 on: June 21, 2011, 09:25:11 AM »

There is a gentleman from my neck of the woods who I have been discussing this very topic with. I'd say he is in his upper 70's and has one of the best looking Chevy II Nova's I have ever seen. He also happens to be retired from GM and we often phone each other just to talk cars. His knowledge is right up there with the top dogs of this site and I've grown to respect his opinions on anything GM. His recommendation to me is exactly what you recommend Phillip...a good sand blasting, coat w/Calyx, and touch up once or twice a year. According to him, this is the best and perhaps the only way to keep the manifolds looking factory fresh.

The last time I saw Clyde's car was at the Muscle Car Nationals here in Albuquerque. Needless to say I didn't pay much attention to his EM. I will see him and his car this coming weekend and I will take a serious look at his EM's. I'd have to say, this is probably the approach I will take.

Kelley...your recommendation is one I am also considering. I think that application holds a lot of promise. However, something about putting paint on metal that takes that much abuse scares me. Most of what I've read indicates it looks great but I have not found anything conclusive past two years. I'm getting up there in years and it won't be long before it will be hard for me to crawl underneath the car. I need to start thinking old man prep. Wink
« Last Edit: June 21, 2011, 09:48:07 AM by IZRSSS » Logged
JohnZ
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« Reply #11 on: June 21, 2011, 09:46:24 AM »

After twenty years of NCRS Corvette judging, I wouldn't recommend using Calyx - it never dries, requires regular touch-up, and stains any fabric that touches it (like shirtsleeves). To each his own....
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'69 Z/28
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Mark
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« Reply #12 on: June 21, 2011, 10:04:21 AM »

I used the Eastwood high temp gray coating paint years ago (like 10), and it still looks the same after several thousand miles of driving.  Does stink though when you first fire up the engine.
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Mark C.
1969 Indy Pace Car
350/300HP RPO Z11
IZRSSS
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« Reply #13 on: June 21, 2011, 10:41:52 AM »

My thought was this was some top secret formula tucked away under lock and key. I was hoping there was something on the market that held up over time and was acceptable for top judges. Thanks Mark, this was the response I was looking for with regards to paint, or any other product for that matter.

As for Caylx...perhaps part of the problem with stains is the person applying it needs to take precautions, and thoroughly remove any and all excess. My goal is something that looks factory fresh. Its difficult for me to assume a painted manifold judges better than a natural finish. That is unless they were painted at the factory. All I am looking for are pros and cons regarding this topic, and I'll decide what to do based on what I think works best for me.

Appriciate everyones advise!
« Last Edit: June 21, 2011, 12:15:17 PM by IZRSSS » Logged
jeff68
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« Reply #14 on: June 21, 2011, 12:12:35 PM »

I was hoping there was something ...acceptable for top judges.
...and I'll decide to do based on what I think works best for me.
I think you will get differing opinions from different people based upon their experience.  What works best for you may not work best from a judging standpoint.  If your goal is to end up with something that is 100% acceptable for judging, then your question should be directed at the judges who establish the judging rules (or you should be looking at the rules themselves).  It appears that sometimes paints or coatings that attempt to replicate an original natural metal finish are acceptable for judging, though not technically correct.
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68 L30 / M20 Convertible
Ash Gold
IZRSSS
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« Reply #15 on: June 22, 2011, 08:33:56 PM »

I'm going with John, Mark & kelley on this one. No Caylx...I will send the manifolds out to have a None Rust Coating applied & finish them off with High Temp Paint. I think the caylx is a good alternative but I'm looking for something long term.
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