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Author Topic: How to repair plastic/vinyl air dam (69 BB w/ AC)  (Read 12616 times)
jvb6648
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« on: April 17, 2011, 08:23:21 PM »

I have this air dam that goes under the front of the sub frame. It's made of plastic or vinyl. Does anyone know how I can repair the tears at the mounting holes. Some type of glue, epoxy or plastic weld?


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Jim
68 Z/28
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« Reply #1 on: April 18, 2011, 02:50:40 PM »

Looks like a piece for a big block a/c 69 Camaro....Joe
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See America's First, Chevrolet

1968 Z/28 Corvette Bronze. Black Hounds Tooth. 02E Los Angeles born 3/13/1968
1969 SS396 Yellow/Yellow 08E Norwood born 8/28/1969
68Zproject
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« Reply #2 on: April 18, 2011, 05:17:22 PM »

I'm no expert at this, but I repaired the rotted floor of my 1950 Buick with fiberglass mat and resin.  I would think you could use that on the plastic to repair holes as it sands very well and molds to anything.
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68Z28
jacmac
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« Reply #3 on: April 18, 2011, 06:20:46 PM »

You are a lucky man to have one of those shields,been looking for one for yrs.Not really sure how to fix it, maybe some one will chime in.
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69 Z10,72 corvette
Sauron327
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« Reply #4 on: April 18, 2011, 07:27:48 PM »

3M makes plastic weld sticks and two part repair and bonding agents for a multitude of auto applications and material compositions, such as polypropolene, FRP, ABS and others. Bumper covers, rigid or semi are often repaired with some of them. Available on line or just go to your jobber. 3M Scotchweld DP 8005 may be applicable, double check. Fiberglass resin, mat or cloth is best used to repair itself or for use in laminations.
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IZRSSS
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« Reply #5 on: April 18, 2011, 07:41:50 PM »

Jim,

Your shield is certainly a very unique and very cool piece. It looks like you have the entire front flange w/3 holes missing, 2 holes missing or plugged in the center, and the 2 holes you do have at the back end need to be beefed up a bit. The 2 holes at the outer edge flanges look fine.

There are several products listed for plastic repair such as; Mxbon 105 (professional cyanoacrylate adhesive), 3m--Dura Mix (autobody supply.net), & Plastic Weld (Napa)...however, I like the advise given for fiberglass mat & resin.

As difficult as this part is to find I would highly recommend drilling reputable body shops before you decide what course of action to take. To make matters worse, the shields original configuration needs attention as well.

Good luck
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Sauron327
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« Reply #6 on: April 18, 2011, 07:49:18 PM »

I don't believe fiberglass resin will work better than a product made for a particular material. These products are made for superior adhesion, strength and workability. I've used them many times in collision repair and they work extremely well. Torn bumpers are heated, braced, bonded, filled, primed and painted for an undetectable repair.  Bodyshops and other industries use these products on a daily basis. Jobbers carry these products and are aware of their applications.
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IZRSSS
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« Reply #7 on: April 18, 2011, 07:52:27 PM »

Good point...we posted up at about the same time and I didn't read what you had to say... Wink

What would be your advise for adding or splicing material that is missing? For example...the entire front flange (or at least most of it)? And...would heat work to reconfigure the angle of the back portion?
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Sauron327
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« Reply #8 on: April 18, 2011, 07:58:29 PM »

Good point...we posted up at about the same time and I didn't read what you had to say... Wink

What would be your advise for adding or splicing material that is missing? For example...the entire front flange (or at least most of it)? And...would heat work to reconfigure the angle of the back portion?
We used to to graft on a donor portion for larger missing pieces. If he did not want to tackle it himself, a shop could handle it.
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jvb6648
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« Reply #9 on: April 18, 2011, 09:34:16 PM »

Thanks for all the tips, especially the assembly drawing. The front flange is there it just doesn't show at that angle.
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Jim
68 Z/28
KevinW
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« Reply #10 on: April 19, 2011, 06:32:22 AM »

Those parts should be an ABS plastic, I would not recommend a fiberglas product.  Fiberglass resin is stiff, ABS is piable.  The resin will crack when the ABS starts to flex.  The best choice of action is to use ABS repair.  you can use doner ABS panels (from modern cars, like wheelwell liners) for replacing missing areas. Read up on plastic welding (like this site http://www.plasticweldingandtools.com/)  You need to correctly identify the plastic and use filler rods of the same material (just trim some thin shards off doner parts) and use soldering iron to soften the fillers. There are some you-tube videos on plastic welding.  Luck!
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77thor
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« Reply #11 on: April 19, 2011, 08:28:26 AM »

Wow. I didn't even know those existed, and I certainly have never seen one before.
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Fred - Milwaukee, WI
1969 Camaro SS350, M21, 12 Bolt, (01B LOS Build)
jvb6648
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« Reply #12 on: April 19, 2011, 10:19:16 PM »

It has a part number but I couldn't tell you what it is. They were used on the Trans-Am race cars. I got that from a friend whose boss' brother worked on a Trans-Am team.
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Jim
68 Z/28
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« Reply #13 on: April 20, 2011, 05:48:52 AM »

According to the AIM, these shields were only available for the 396's & the 427.
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x66 714
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« Reply #14 on: April 20, 2011, 06:18:17 AM »

And only used with C-60, air conditioning & only in 1969 with the 396 as Marty stated....Joe
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See America's First, Chevrolet

1968 Z/28 Corvette Bronze. Black Hounds Tooth. 02E Los Angeles born 3/13/1968
1969 SS396 Yellow/Yellow 08E Norwood born 8/28/1969
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