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Author Topic: Power Windor Problem  (Read 2781 times)
IZRSSS
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« on: February 27, 2011, 12:14:40 PM »

All of the individual switches work fine. I was having problems with the master switch and replaced it early last year. It too was working just fine until now. I am not getting anything out of the four levers/switches from the master. Any suggestions on how to trouble shoot this?

Thanks
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Ed Bertrand
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« Reply #1 on: February 27, 2011, 01:39:44 PM »

Marty, there's a great troubleshooting guide for this in the Fisher Body manual. Basically you just remove the wiring harness from the swith and use a short piece of wire (like a paperclip or similar) to jumper from "hot" to the different connectors in the harness. I've done it before and it works great.

Ed
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IZRSSS
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« Reply #2 on: February 27, 2011, 02:14:33 PM »

Checked each female slot in the connector {9} and all of them are dead {Test Light}. Checked the fuse box and all appear to be good. Fisher suggests trouble shooting the circuit breaker...where is it located?  Or...Any thoughts on the next move?
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Ed Bertrand
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« Reply #3 on: February 27, 2011, 03:10:14 PM »

The circuit breaker is on the firewall just above the power brake booster. You should have 12V on both sides. Remember though, you'll get nothing at the switches unless the the ignition switch is in the "on" position because of the way the system's designed. Read THIS for more info.

Ed
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IZRSSS
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« Reply #4 on: February 27, 2011, 03:23:24 PM »

Thank you Ed. Good information and nice link. I'll spend some time on this and let you know what happens.
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IZRSSS
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« Reply #5 on: February 27, 2011, 04:25:52 PM »

    Both Circuit breaker and feed are operable. Next I checked the Relay Assembly at the shroud, it too works fine.
    Next
  • Check feed connection to power harness beneath instrument panel
  • Check feed circuit wires for possible short or open circuit
  • Check cut-out switch

Can you tell me tell me exactly where the "feed connection" is located beneath IP? And...where the "cut-off switch" is?

Thanks Ed...sorry about the hassle                                                                                                                                                         [/list]
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Ed Bertrand
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« Reply #6 on: February 27, 2011, 05:14:44 PM »

If you look at the schematic, the following apply:

If you measure the Ignition Relay and have 12V at 14 (which comes from 10 at the Circuit Breaker), AND 12V at 11 coming from the Fuse Box, then you'll automatically have 12V at 15 unless the Ignition Relay is bad or you have a bad ground at the relay.

15 is the feed to all the swiches, so if you DON'T have 12V to 15 at any of the switches, but DO have 12V to 15 at the Ignition Relay itself, then you have a broken wire somewhere.

The Ignition Relay is located behind the kick panel on the drivers side of the car and all the wires run up under the dash or inside the channels under the door sill plates.

I suppose you could possibly have a bad motor causing the problem, but if a motor was bad (grounding out), then the circuit breaker would "break" and you "shouldn't" be getting 12V on the supply side going into the car.

Ed
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IZRSSS
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« Reply #7 on: February 27, 2011, 06:20:04 PM »

Again, great info...a lot to soak in right now. I'm getting frustrated with this so I think its time to quit for now. I'll read up on it some more and give it another go in the morning.

Thanks for staying with me...
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Ed Bertrand
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« Reply #8 on: February 27, 2011, 06:49:11 PM »

I learned a long time ago that when you can't figure the problem out, walk away. A good overnight sleep usually straightens out the cobwebs!

Ed
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IZRSSS
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« Reply #9 on: February 27, 2011, 07:46:15 PM »

Well...couldn't sit around doing nothing...Is this the Ignition Relay? If it is than all that's left for tomarrow is to check the volts coming out of 14 & 11. If they do check out then the relay is good & I have a cut wire...am I with you so far?
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Ed Bertrand
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« Reply #10 on: February 27, 2011, 08:01:03 PM »

Yep. That's it. And looking at your power window wires, it appears someone at some time has done some splicing! There's a lot of blue shrink tubing where there shouldn't be.

Ed
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IZRSSS
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« Reply #11 on: February 27, 2011, 08:16:42 PM »

Yup, I'm pretty sure the splice was made to replace the rubber sleeve between the door and jamb. I noticed the sleeve on the other door is cracked so the drivers side was probably in pretty bad shape.

You are exactly right on the wire leading away from the relay. They run under the dash and appear to extend the entire length of the dash.
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jl8dale
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« Reply #12 on: February 28, 2011, 09:53:26 AM »

I had the same problem with one of my pace cars when I bought it a few years ago and found all of my wires in the drivers side door jamb spliced together. While I was able to resplice them and get it to work, I decided to order a new wiring harness and fix it right.
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1969 Z/28 Daytona Yellow/Yellow Houndstooth, Tilt, Fold Down Seat, - POP
1969 Pace Car Original & Highly Optioned - Chassis Broadcast Sheet
IZRSSS
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« Reply #13 on: February 28, 2011, 12:47:21 PM »

Ed,

Can't thank you enough for the help. I checked the Switch Relay and found 11, 14, & 15 checked out fine...so relay good. I then checked #15 output feed from inside car to master control switch...nothing...a little tug & look what popped out... Undecided.

You da man & you da trouble shooting guru. MUCH APPRICIATED!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Will that be check or money order...
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Ed Bertrand
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« Reply #14 on: February 28, 2011, 12:52:57 PM »

Great job Marty. Glad you got it fixed. That's a fairly common problem with old cars. Not only do the wires get old and brittle, but prior owner repairs fail and need to be fixed again. I swear there's more electrical tape in my car than anything else!

Ed
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