I'll chime in here too since we do so many engines at CHP. That's the very rewarding part of the hobby IMO........building engines. I always start out with 194 heads if we have to do a 302 or 350 engine. If you find an original set of 202's they've ususally had so many valve jobs that the heads are junk with very deep sunkin valves. The flow won't be very good when you're done either on a set of heads that had 15 valve jobs. Building a new set of 194's allows you to cut the seats to the proper tolenances, machine the intake valve un-shrouded area and do a fresh competition valve job. On the engine in my Stocker, that's what we did the heads on the engine that I set the NHRA national record with.............they are dated 291's that match the car.
For the factory look, I have several 302s in the machine shop now. Pioneer makes a nice screw in stud that is round and looks just like the original push in stud. Only difference is it's threaded on the end. You remove the press-in studs, tap the head holes for the threads and install the new threaded studs with Locktite. Torque and you're done! That's all there is to it and you don't deviate from the stock appearing heads if the valve cover is removed. And they are just as strong. I would never cut an original set of heads for screw in studs and guide plates if I don't have to. There are other options as I've mentioned here.
Another note, guide plates are not needed if the push rod holes in the heads are not worn. I do not have guide plates on any of my Stock Eliminator engines. We were not allowed to use them for years. And mine work fine the way they are now.