Correct steering box finish

[rskev]

I was looking for any tips/advise on painting or restoring the finish on the power steering box on my 68' RS. I'm told by some that it was originally a natural finish, while others say black, or "spray gray" from Eastwoods, and so on. Can anyone recommend a spray paint that looks good and is still "correct"? Thank you!

[1968RSZ28]

http://www.camaros.org/forum/index.php?topic=1757.0

Paul

[68camaroz28]

Jerry has our manual steering box currently to restore.

[cadmanof50s]

I am at this same stage of restoration with my '68.
Reading through the previous threads, it would seem that the boxes were basically left unpainted.

Mine had been previously painted..aluminium color.

Once I strip it of paint should I leave it without a finish so it can rust again?
Since it was cast, can I use a cast-iron engine paint on it and make it "look" somewhat correct?

Suggestions?

Vic

[rskev]

Vic, That's the same spot I'm in. I'd like to paint it with something so that it looks correct, but will last a long time. I'd prefer it not to rust again it I strip it. I guess I'm looking for the same answer.

[lakeholme]

Read Jerry's post in the thread Paul referenced above.

[rskev]

Thank you!

[BlackoutSteve]

I bought #32020  "OEM PAINTS STEERING GEAR BOX FINISH, DARK GRAPHITE"

Is the color accurate?

[x77-69z28]

looks too dark to me

[Gramps69Z]

On page 206 of Jerry's 4th ed. book the steering box is a natural metal finish.

[MyRed67]

 I have used Martin Senour TECnique Iron Cast #7250.  I forget who suggested it, but I believe it was on here.  Works great, looks great, it is a flat or semi-gloss finish so it's not too glossy.  It's available at NAPA in a big 15 oz. spray can for 'I believe' about $8.99.  FYI - the top cover, and the round disc in the end should remain natural aluminum color.

[Sauron327]

Any aerosol cast finish does not provide an adequate water barrier. Epoxy all parts first.

[BlackoutSteve]

On page 206 of Jerry's 4th ed. book the steering box is a natural metal finish.

That's the finish I want, but without the surface rust. :p

[9T4Z]

Hello.... may be of assistance.  When I've stripped parts that were supposed to be bare metal, I've elected to clear coat with a flat sheen clear coat.  Looks pretty good and rust does not come back.

[Sauron327]

Hello.... may be of assistance.  When I've stripped parts that were supposed to be bare metal, I've elected to clear coat with a flat sheen clear coat.  Looks pretty good and rust does not come back.

What did you use as a clearcoat? There are many. Unless they have perfected the adhesion properties of clear recently, I have not seen long term stability on bare metal. Especially any lacquer based clears, which most aerosols are. In the link below are Dave's test pictures of product failure. I always epoxy parts prior to topcoating with Cast Blast if not left in bare metal. Cast Blast alone provides a poor water barrier. As does any lacquer based product and those containing talc. http://www.camaros.org/forum/index.php?topic=3951.0

[john302]

I totally agree with the last reply. Every thing that is metal gets aleast one coat of epoxy.SPI brand is the best,way better than DP. When I restore parts never top coat over bare metal.It will rust period.Epoxy can be mixed as a wet on wet sealer that works great on cast parts. It isnt thick and it doesnt fill. We tried all the different brands of epoxy . John Allouez Restorations p.s Just sprayed a bunch of 68z parts with epoxy and I am waitting for it to flash

[9T4Z]

No name brand... simple store shelf hardware brand.

  My first experiment was when I wanted to get the bright zinc off the exhaust system hangers.  Hated the bright zinc, so I dipped them in muriatic acid and the zinc quite quickly came off.  Rinsed, dried and clear-coated.  That was in 2006.  The finish was like natural metal and have not rusted. The acid dip kinda gave it a brownish tinge that I found quite nice.  It will begin to rust right before your eyes if it stays wet or it's humid. The clear stopped it entirely.

Next did this with brake drums and rotors.  The muriatic acid dip removed all the rust and I alcohol wiped and air dried.  Worked 10X better than the 'cast blast' that virtually failed after a single winter on the garage lift. I have never tried epoxy and 'cast blast' so can not comment.

As far as the steering box, I did not remove it entirely from the car... just removed the bolts and wiggled it away, after I had removed my steering components. I brushed on the acid, waited, alcohol wash, air dried and sprayed the clear.

I would never recommend clear sprayed on top of zinc coated metal such as brake, fuel, gas tank as the results are a disaster in a couple of seasons.  I do not know why.

Product was called "Power fist all purpose enamel spray paint' and was the flat clear.  Just a house brand up here.

[cadmanof50s]

I have had very different experiences with painting  clear coats then the ones in the past few posts.

First of all I use engine enamel- the product was designed for higher temperatures up to 500 F. (Not that it matters in this situation).
I clear coated all the brake and hydraulic lines on my 63 year old Cadillac ..and I have never had an issue with them. Granted the car never sees moisture, rain, snow etc. The lines themslelves were the original..maybe they did not use the same material 63 years ago.

Finally, although I agree that clear-coating is a great idea..as in my humble opinion it protects and ceratinly slows down the oxidation/rusting...I think using it on the steerign box with bare metal may give you a finish that you may not be satisfied with. It certainly makes it look very shiny ..and if thats the effect you want ...great. But natural cast is grey and dull.

Again, you may consider the Cast-iron gray finish (flat) - Dupli-Color  makes a cast iron gray (as well). After reading all the posts in this thread..I have decided to go with that choice.
In effect you end up with the same color and finish as you master cylinder.

Vic

[68Zproject]

http://www.camaros.org/forum/index.php?topic=7197.0

Look at 6th post down.

[9T4Z]

http://www.camaros.org/forum/index.php?topic=7197.0

Look at 6th post down.

It's great for show cars. A nicely restored car that sees the road the dust turns to grime and you're at it with mineral spirits in the fall. 

 The last two posts on the link were interesting though. Jeff asks, quite rightly, how one color finish, on a part that was supposed to be bare metal,could be more correct, than another finish?   When in fact both are in-correct.  Shouldn't there be a LOT of latitude in the area of coatings as it seems more subjective than anything?  Will everyone eventually be buying paint from the same supplier?

I may be wrong, but ceramic coatings on exhaust manifolds are now accepted??  If so will someone later argue that there are some ceramic coatings that are a 'more acceptable' coating color. I've never been there but sounds like a daunting task, keeping up with the 'new correct, more acceptable, pickier finishes. Poor judges will have to be running around with color charts  

Great information guys.

ps  the flat clear does not make the box 'very shiny'... more of a dull damp look. Definitely retards corrosion in a decent storage environment,though not outside hung on an Air Conditioner, and sticks well when the part is acid etched.