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Author Topic: Correct steering box finish  (Read 3140 times)
rskev
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« on: December 21, 2010, 08:06:20 PM »

I was looking for any tips/advise on painting or restoring the finish on the power steering box on my 68' RS. I'm told by some that it was originally a natural finish, while others say black, or "spray gray" from Eastwoods, and so on. Can anyone recommend a spray paint that looks good and is still "correct"? Thank you!
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1968RSZ28
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« Reply #1 on: December 21, 2010, 10:47:17 PM »

http://www.camaros.org/forum/index.php?topic=1757.0

Paul
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68camaroz28
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« Reply #2 on: December 21, 2010, 11:46:17 PM »

Jerry has our manual steering box currently to restore.
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Vic Brincat

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« Reply #3 on: December 22, 2010, 01:15:43 PM »

I am at this same stage of restoration with my '68.
Reading through the previous threads, it would seem that the boxes were basically left unpainted.

Mine had been previously painted..aluminium color.

Once I strip it of paint should I leave it without a finish so it can rust again?
Since it was cast, can I use a cast-iron engine paint on it and make it "look" somewhat correct?

Suggestions?

Vic
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Vic Brincat
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rskev
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« Reply #4 on: December 22, 2010, 03:39:52 PM »

Vic, That's the same spot I'm in. I'd like to paint it with something so that it looks correct, but will last a long time. I'd prefer it not to rust again it I strip it. I guess I'm looking for the same answer.
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lakeholme
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« Reply #5 on: December 23, 2010, 09:39:09 AM »

Read Jerry's post in the thread Paul referenced above.
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rskev
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« Reply #6 on: December 23, 2010, 01:56:42 PM »

Thank you!
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BlackoutSteve
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« Reply #7 on: December 23, 2010, 05:05:21 PM »

I bought #32020  "OEM PAINTS STEERING GEAR BOX FINISH, DARK GRAPHITE"

Is the color accurate?
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x77-69z28
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« Reply #8 on: December 23, 2010, 09:03:00 PM »

looks too dark to me
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« Reply #9 on: December 23, 2010, 10:29:57 PM »

On page 206 of Jerry's 4th ed. book the steering box is a natural metal finish.
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« Reply #10 on: December 23, 2010, 11:38:40 PM »

 I have used Martin Senour TECnique Iron Cast #7250.  I forget who suggested it, but I believe it was on here.  Works great, looks great, it is a flat or semi-gloss finish so it's not too glossy.  It's available at NAPA in a big 15 oz. spray can for 'I believe' about $8.99.  FYI - the top cover, and the round disc in the end should remain natural aluminum color.
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Sauron327
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« Reply #11 on: December 23, 2010, 11:42:05 PM »

Any aerosol cast finish does not provide an adequate water barrier. Epoxy all parts first.
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BlackoutSteve
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« Reply #12 on: December 24, 2010, 12:22:12 AM »

On page 206 of Jerry's 4th ed. book the steering box is a natural metal finish.

That's the finish I want, but without the surface rust. :p
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9T4Z
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« Reply #13 on: December 26, 2010, 11:32:01 AM »

Hello.... may be of assistance.  When I've stripped parts that were supposed to be bare metal, I've elected to clear coat with a flat sheen clear coat.  Looks pretty good and rust does not come back.
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Gary 9T4Z

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« Reply #14 on: December 26, 2010, 12:09:28 PM »

Hello.... may be of assistance.  When I've stripped parts that were supposed to be bare metal, I've elected to clear coat with a flat sheen clear coat.  Looks pretty good and rust does not come back.
What did you use as a clearcoat? There are many. Unless they have perfected the adhesion properties of clear recently, I have not seen long term stability on bare metal. Especially any lacquer based clears, which most aerosols are. In the link below are Dave's test pictures of product failure. I always epoxy parts prior to topcoating with Cast Blast if not left in bare metal. Cast Blast alone provides a poor water barrier. As does any lacquer based product and those containing talc. http://www.camaros.org/forum/index.php?topic=3951.0
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