CRG Discussion Forum
Welcome, Guest. Please login or register.
Did you miss your activation email?
October 31, 2014, 01:17:46 AM

Login with username, password and session length
Search:     Advanced search
Welcome to the CRG Discussion Forum!
Forum registration problems: Make sure you enter your email correctly and you check your spam box first. *Then* email KurtS2@gmail for help.
105859 Posts in 12353 Topics by 4762 Members
Latest Member: HarryQ
* Home Help Search Login Register
+  CRG Discussion Forum
|-+  Camaro Research Group Discussion
| |-+  General Discussion
| | |-+  Leaf Spring Paint
« previous next »
Pages: [1] Print
Author Topic: Leaf Spring Paint  (Read 2503 times)
tmodel66
Hero Member
*****
Posts: 1212


View Profile Email
« on: October 18, 2010, 09:50:59 AM »

OK    I 'm  at my wits end. I have searched several places and can't get a definite answer if there is one. What color paint is used on leaf springs that is close to the original color? I know they weren't painted from the factory.  What do the pros use on a 1000 point car? Other than send them and have'em heat treated.  Sorry for the rant but it's getting to me. Is it a trade secret nobody wants to give up? Hell if they charge for it, tell me and I will pay.
Logged

Daniel  
'69 SS 350/4 speed  Fathom Green--POP
L78 steve
Member
***
Posts: 443



View Profile Email
« Reply #1 on: October 18, 2010, 11:29:02 AM »

A dark charcoal similar to the rally wheel paint is what I use. But not a 1000 point car by any means.
Logged

69 Z/28 Dover White X33,ZL2,PS,M20,Std.int.04C
67 SS/RS Mt. Green 1W,2LGSR,3SL,4K,5BY,07C
Dusk Blue Z
Member
***
Posts: 85


View Profile
« Reply #2 on: October 18, 2010, 07:20:41 PM »

During the restoration of my 28K Z/28, I took the leaves out and had the cleanest one scanned at my local auto paint supply house. They used the same scanner that you would use on the paint of the car to match a custom color for repair. They mixed a small amount up and with a brush test, it was spot on. I had a batch mixed up in spray cans and used that. They look great but I have not driven the car yet to see how it will hold up. My thought is if the paint rubs off at the contact points they will rust, and then look just like they originally did. Below is a picture of the original spring used for the scan. I think I have a couple of spray cans left over.

Mike
Logged
tmodel66
Hero Member
*****
Posts: 1212


View Profile Email
« Reply #3 on: October 18, 2010, 07:30:43 PM »

Mike, Please check you mail box. PM sent.
Logged

Daniel  
'69 SS 350/4 speed  Fathom Green--POP
169INDY
Member
***
Posts: 220



View Profile Email
« Reply #4 on: October 18, 2010, 07:44:54 PM »

Paint options:

Stove Bright Charcoal # 6201, High Temp Paint, Forrest Paint Co PO Box 22110, Eugene, OR 97402, 541-342-1821 www.forrestpaint.com

NAPA Iron Cast # 7986 (Martin Senour Paints)

The 67's seemed to have a strange tint to them

For 100 point wimps who never drive them:

Natural Steel protectant: Boeshield T-9 avail at Boat Shops (Funny) 

Jim
Logged

Jim
68 SS/RS L35 Th-400 LOS
69 Pace Car L48 Th-350 LOS
Dave69x33
Member
***
Posts: 346



View Profile Email
« Reply #5 on: October 21, 2010, 09:20:53 PM »

Unless your springs look bad, you don't need to paint them.  When I restored my car I first attempted to restore my leaf springs but replaced them. 

I used a tip from those who restore Model-A's, who protect many original unpainted parts with bearing grease.  To keep unpainted steel and cast iron parts looking natural, brush or wipe the part with grease then take a clean shop rag and wipe off the excess but leave a light film of grease on the surface.  You can practically wipe the part clean and it will leave a light protective film on the part.  The surface will keep its natural color and the grease provides a barrier from moisture preventing rust. 

Every spring when I get the car ready for the summer, I give the natural parts a quick wipe with my "grease rag", stored in a Zip-Lock bag.  I also keep a tooth brush and 1" paint brush handy for the nooks and crannies in parts.  The grease rag works well on nut, bolt, plane steel washer, etc.

I treated my natural cast iron steering gearbox with the grease and touch it up occasionally.  It has been on my car for 10+ years and still looks very good.

Give it a try and I believe you will be surprised how well this tip works.
Logged
tmodel66
Hero Member
*****
Posts: 1212


View Profile Email
« Reply #6 on: October 21, 2010, 09:32:35 PM »

WOW is all I can say. That looks perfect.  It's the best I've ever saw as natural look goes. I'll have to get to the parts house in the morning.   Thanks a lot for the great pictures.
Logged

Daniel  
'69 SS 350/4 speed  Fathom Green--POP
LB68SS350
Member
***
Posts: 24


View Profile
« Reply #7 on: October 23, 2010, 06:40:28 PM »

 Dave, when you bought your new springs, did they come with a protective coating, such as cosmoline? If so what did you use to strip the coating off? I bought new ones recently, was told not to use anything too harsh because of the separators between the leaves. Didn't mean to hijack the thread. Thanks in advance.     Larry
Logged
69z28302
Member
***
Posts: 367



View Profile
« Reply #8 on: October 23, 2010, 07:50:44 PM »

I used Seymour Cast Blast.

http://www.seymourpaint.com/cast_blast.html

Mike
Logged
Dave69x33
Member
***
Posts: 346



View Profile Email
« Reply #9 on: October 25, 2010, 08:34:03 PM »

LB68SS350,

I purchased the springs over ten year ago, but if I recall, they were coated with cosmoline.  I may have used mineral spirits and a paint brush and a rag to clean the springs, followed by washed them several times with dish soap and water, then rinse them with hot water.  I always use my air compressor to blow water out of the crevices, holes, etc.  I have hot and cold water in my garage which has been very handy.  When I clean a part, I start with a mild cleaner (Simple Green or Fantastic) then work up to a more aggressive cleaner if necessary (mineral spirits or lacquer thinner), but it also depends if the part contains a rubber or plastic component. 

Good luck with your project!
Logged
LB68SS350
Member
***
Posts: 24


View Profile
« Reply #10 on: October 26, 2010, 10:18:36 PM »

Thanks Dave, that was a lot of help! Just the info I was looking for.  Larry
Logged
Dave69x33
Member
***
Posts: 346



View Profile Email
« Reply #11 on: October 28, 2010, 08:07:39 PM »

Larry,

Good for you.  Hate to say it but the ole Modle A Ford guys had a good tip!

Dave

Logged
Jerry@CHP
CRG Member
*****
Posts: 1445



View Profile Email
« Reply #12 on: October 28, 2010, 09:22:28 PM »

Call Ken Lucas.  He has been using a paint that has been accepted by all of my diamond judges on the team.  Cast blast used to get by but we are getting more pickey as the hobby progresses.

Jerry

443-212-5580.
Logged
jeff68
Member
***
Posts: 349



View Profile
« Reply #13 on: November 01, 2010, 01:47:52 PM »

If the correct original finish for the springs is bare steel, then why would any paint at all be acceptable for a 1000 point show car?  The spring finish is either correct (no paint and no points deduction) or not (painted and points deducted). 
Logged

68 L30 / M20 Convertible
Ash Gold
Pages: [1] Print 
« previous next »
Jump to:  

Powered by MySQL Powered by PHP Powered by SMF 1.1.19 | SMF © 2013, Simple Machines Valid XHTML 1.0! Valid CSS!
Page created in 0.074 seconds with 17 queries.