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Author Topic: Octane booster?  (Read 3837 times)
jacmac
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« on: October 04, 2010, 09:00:21 AM »

Do products like 104 octane booster & CD2 lead additive really work,or just a waste of money?
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JohnZ
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« Reply #1 on: October 04, 2010, 09:34:02 AM »

Do products like 104 octane booster & CD2 lead additive really work,or just a waste of money?

They just empty your wallet. 104+ "Octane Booster" is next to useless; when they advertise "increases octane four points", they mean four-tenths of a point, and there is no need for "lead additives" - valve seat recession isn't an issue. A properly-tuned engine with an appropriate timing/advance map will run fine on pump premium without any "additives".
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Gramps69Z
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« Reply #2 on: October 04, 2010, 09:59:29 AM »

I use to put "Outlaw" octane booster in my car.  The store I shopped quit selling it and I stopped using octane it.   Use a good premium fuel and save your money.
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flyingskibiker
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« Reply #3 on: October 04, 2010, 09:01:21 PM »

I think that is what is eating up the insides of my carb(s)?
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JohnZ
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« Reply #4 on: October 05, 2010, 08:42:24 AM »

I think that is what is eating up the insides of my carb(s)?

Yes, common problem - most of the "additives" are mostly alcohol and kerosene, and they attack the dichromate plating on zinc die-cast carburetor parts.
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Jerry@CHP
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« Reply #5 on: October 05, 2010, 09:04:16 AM »

Yep, the additives do eat up the internals in the carburetor.  I see it all the time.

Jerry
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KurtS
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« Reply #6 on: October 05, 2010, 04:53:09 PM »

To raise the octane rating, it's a simple math problem.
9 gallons of 100 octane. Add 1 gallon of 110 octane makes 10 gallons of 101 octane.
Those little bottles can actually increase octane, but it is minimal since they're adding no real volume.
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Kurt S
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jacmac
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« Reply #7 on: October 05, 2010, 07:07:31 PM »

Thank guys,dont have to waste any money on that stuff.What about using a "gas stablizer" to keep fuel from turning to sludge.I wont be driving car to often!
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JohnZ
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« Reply #8 on: October 06, 2010, 10:24:43 AM »

Thank guys,dont have to waste any money on that stuff.What about using a "gas stablizer" to keep fuel from turning to sludge.I wont be driving car to often!

I've been garage-storing my classics through the six-month Michigan winters for over 40 years without ever starting them, and have never had a fuel issue when spring arrived; I just fill the tank before storage. No need for "fuel stabilizers" under those conditions.
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JoeC
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« Reply #9 on: October 06, 2010, 12:12:50 PM »

Back when you could no longer get leaded fuel, the Model A Ford guys were all upset and did all kinds of research about ruining your valves running unleaded fuel. Many used lead additives.
I drive my Model A more then most and never used any additive. The engine has not been apart for 30 years since I built it in high school and still runs good.
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jacmac
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« Reply #10 on: October 06, 2010, 07:48:52 PM »

Well thats good news,more money to spend on stuff that important.Thanks for the advice!
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sshippe
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« Reply #11 on: October 07, 2010, 08:44:56 AM »

When i worked at fuel terminals I spoke to an engineer about stabilizers.  His comment was that they stabilize the additives not the fuel.  All street legal fuel is additized with intake valve detergent by law.  Racing fuel isn't.  He recommended that the last tank be non-taxed racing fuel because it has no ethanol or additives.
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srode
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« Reply #12 on: October 13, 2010, 06:33:12 PM »

When I used to drag race in the early 80s, we ran Moroso Octane booster - came in a 1 gallon can - was supposed to work well and it did stop the pinging on my 11:1 engine - 240lbs cranking pressure on compression tests.  Not sure if they sell it anymore or what it actually did in terms of raising the octane rating though.  As I remember, I added a quart to 15 gallons plus or minus.
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Steve - 02D Z11 and a Plain Jane hardtop
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