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Author Topic: But natural finsih will rust on my spindles  (Read 3459 times)
another kurt s
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« on: March 28, 2010, 10:51:42 PM »

I am rebuilding my front suspension right now and Jerrys book says the front spindles are left natural but after the first washing they will rust.  I noticed this for other things also, sway bars, etc.  What is the best thing to do?  Paint?  if so what color?   also what is the best media to blast the spindles with?  Walnut shells? 
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1928 Model A Hot Rod
1936 Chevy 5 window Coupes
1955 Studebaker Pick up
1961 Corvette
1968 Camaro RS/SS 4 spd with air
1969 Camaro Z10
1974 Early Bronco
Stingr69
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« Reply #1 on: March 29, 2010, 09:54:35 AM »

Paint is not technically correct but "Cast Blast" cast iron color (rattle can) will work fairly well.  I would hit it with several light dusting coats allowing time between coats for it to tack up a bit. The finish looks real nice and holds up pretty well. I have used it on other parts and it looks real good to me.

-Mark.
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Sauron327
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« Reply #2 on: March 29, 2010, 10:50:17 AM »

Best to epoxy primer first then CastBlast. C. Blast is not waterproof. Eventually it will show signs of rust. My frame off welcomes mother nature at times and the difference between parts I epoxied or not is evident.
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another kurt s
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« Reply #3 on: March 29, 2010, 05:12:11 PM »

Thanks guys, this seems more logical.  I was wondering how to keep them from rusting, wish there was a complete "correct" list of finishes and recommended products that are close to original.  Every list I see has conflicting or incomplete info and then I am left trying to find a 30% or 60% sheen that looks right.  Now off to find some.
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1928 Model A Hot Rod
1936 Chevy 5 window Coupes
1955 Studebaker Pick up
1961 Corvette
1968 Camaro RS/SS 4 spd with air
1969 Camaro Z10
1974 Early Bronco
Sauron327
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« Reply #4 on: March 29, 2010, 06:14:05 PM »

What black are you using for the suspension components?
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RamAirDave
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« Reply #5 on: March 29, 2010, 09:00:00 PM »

When I rebuilt the front susp on my GTO about 5 years ago, it was wire-wheel cleaned and cast blast.  I've driven it a lot and through any weather and it's held up pretty well.

But that was years ago.  Since then we blast and epoxy anything that gets the cast paint, and even now we use "real" paint rather than rattle for the cast color.

If you MUST go natural, just clear coating the bare metal doesn't work so well.  Clear isn't made to bite into it.  I've found (after a lot of experimenting) that using an etching solution helps a lot.
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"Build them how the designers and engineers envisioned them to be"

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montgomg
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« Reply #6 on: March 29, 2010, 09:18:01 PM »

I was looking at some of the Eastwood coatings as it seems they used to have a "cast blast" paint. Can't find it now. They have a "detail gray" which is for cast iron parts. Is this what you would use now? If not in a rattle can what paint brand and mix number are you using? Thanks.
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RamAirDave
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« Reply #7 on: March 29, 2010, 09:42:44 PM »

I think the 'detail gray' is the cast color, but I haven't really used Eastwood much.
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"Build them how the designers and engineers envisioned them to be"

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another kurt s
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« Reply #8 on: March 30, 2010, 09:40:37 AM »

I am going to a local paint shop today called Space Age Paints, they have a wide variety of paints so I will see what they recommend.  Is there a difference in epoxy primers?  I hear people talk about trim black, not sure what to use on my a arms, subframe, inner fenders, firewall and under body that will hold up and look right.
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1928 Model A Hot Rod
1936 Chevy 5 window Coupes
1955 Studebaker Pick up
1961 Corvette
1968 Camaro RS/SS 4 spd with air
1969 Camaro Z10
1974 Early Bronco
sdkar
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« Reply #9 on: April 01, 2010, 12:40:14 PM »

Plasti-cote has a really nice cast grey that looks close, but like any rattle can paint job, it doesn't last as long.  I do recommend powder coating.  Eastwoods powder coating system and they have the colors needed to make the parts look correct.  Their cast grey looks really nice and lasts forever. 

I powder coated almost every part on my car.  If it fit in a full size oven it got powder coated.  I did my smaller items like my master cylinder, spindles and steering arms in cast grey, my pulleys and brackets in underhood black and my valve covers and intake with their Chevy orange.  I even did my rally wheels with they argent silver.  They all still look great, and these were done over 7 years ago.  They even have a correct coating for the exhaust manifolds.   

If you don't have a full size oven at your disposal (DON"T USE THE ONE IN YOUR KITCHEN...it will ruin it and your wife will kill you), you can use a toaster oven for a bunch of the smaller parts.   I have a full sized oven in my garage and I have done larger items like my wheels and exhaust manifolds, with excellent results.  If you are considering redoing a bunch of parts, then I strongly recommend getting Eastwoods system.  They sell the gun for about $70 or they have a kit that includes everything you need along with a sampling of colors that you get to pick.  I don't work for them at all, but it worked so well and I was so happy with the results, I do recommend this system to anyone wanting to redo all of the small items in the correct colors and want a lasting finish.  If you have any questions, about how it works or more details on my experiences, then feel free to email me...I will be happy to answer your questions. 

Steve
sdkar@bellsouth.net

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another kurt s
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« Reply #10 on: April 01, 2010, 09:41:12 PM »

Thanks Steve, I have gone back and forth on powder coating.  I am restoring my Z10 so factory finishes are more important on this car than my others.  I will drive this car when finished so durability is a factor.  I live in Arizona so the car will live inside my garage and rarely see water.  I was going to powder coat but after media blasting my a arms I realized the original rivited ball joints are still tight so I might leave them on and just save the new ones from the kit if I ever need them.  So I think the heat from powder coating would damage them, not sure?  I was also told to use POR 15 semi gloss but I have never seen this after being sprayed, I have a feeling it would be too shinny.  I did find the cast blast in a rattle can which I will try.  Did the Eastwood powder coat lay down nice like paint? 
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1928 Model A Hot Rod
1936 Chevy 5 window Coupes
1955 Studebaker Pick up
1961 Corvette
1968 Camaro RS/SS 4 spd with air
1969 Camaro Z10
1974 Early Bronco
1967RS/SS
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« Reply #11 on: April 02, 2010, 11:26:25 PM »

Anyone know if powder manufacturers make colors that matches/resembles original factory colors?
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Joe
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« Reply #12 on: April 20, 2010, 12:57:45 PM »

BOESHIELD...
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James
Collectin' Camaro's since "Only Rednecks drove them"
 
Check out the Black 69 RS/Z28 45k mile Survivor and the Lemans Blue 69 Z 10D frame off...
https://picasaweb.google.com/112392262205377424364/1969_Z28_Restoration
firstgenaddict
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« Reply #13 on: April 20, 2010, 01:03:48 PM »

Thanks Steve, I have gone back and forth on powder coating.  I am restoring my Z10 so factory finishes are more important on this car than my others.   

IMHO the "patina" a correctly restored car (ie using factory finishes) acquires over the course of a decade or two of pampered use is of much more value to me than having a non-correct finish which doesn't age at the same rate or acquire the aged characteristics the rest of the car does. 
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James
Collectin' Camaro's since "Only Rednecks drove them"
 
Check out the Black 69 RS/Z28 45k mile Survivor and the Lemans Blue 69 Z 10D frame off...
https://picasaweb.google.com/112392262205377424364/1969_Z28_Restoration
sixt9x33rs
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« Reply #14 on: April 20, 2010, 06:55:35 PM »

I am going to a local paint shop today called Space Age Paints, they have a wide variety of paints so I will see what they recommend.  Is there a difference in epoxy primers?  I hear people talk about trim black, not sure what to use on my a arms, subframe, inner fenders, firewall and under body that will hold up and look right.
Use DP-90 on the frame and suspension parts. You can use a sash black lacquer on the inner fenders or DP-90 on those too.
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'69 RS Z/28 Olympic Gold, 711
Flat hood no spoiler, black top, endura, 4:10
POP 39,000
69 X77 Z/28 69 711 Original Paint Unrestored
'69 X66 Convertible Cortez Silver 712 black top Endura, auto, bumper guards, am/fm rear speaker 44k miles
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