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Author Topic: Clutch shudder  (Read 2572 times)
1967RS
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« on: November 02, 2009, 11:29:24 PM »

I recently replaced my old clutch with a Luk oem replacement, I also installed a re-conditioned flywheel,TO bearing etc. I took the car for a ride and experienced heavy clutch shudder in 1st and reverse. I didn't want to do the job 2nd time in the driveway (hard on the body) so I took it to a local shop, he replaced everything I did with another Luk set except the fly wheel since it only had 50 miles on it. Picked-up the car and it still has clutch shudder and the pedal is stiffer than usual ? I'm scheduled to take it back on Monday,any ideas or sugesstions? Thanks
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JohnZ
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« Reply #1 on: November 03, 2009, 11:06:11 AM »

First thing I'd look for is deteriorated engine mounts or transmission mount. I've used many LuK clutches, and have never had an issue. Do you know how the flywheel was "reconditioned"? They should be done on an orbital flywheel grinder, not on a lathe, and the surface should look like the photo below.
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'69 Z/28
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1967RS
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« Reply #2 on: November 03, 2009, 04:55:52 PM »

John, the flywheel I replaced didn't have the swirl marks in it as your picture shows. After installing the first clutch and expieriencing the shudder, I had second thoughts about putting a $50.00 re-surfaced fly wheel in the first place. I talked to a local clutch shop today and told me that bellhousing alignment is critical and often overlooked. He also said that if I started getting the shudder after the first install and everything else has been changed twice except the flywheel, that that may be the problem? He mentioned something about heat warping that wouldn't be visable to the eye? By the way I had no shudder in my driveline before changing the first clutch. Thanks for your response.
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Gramps69Z
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« Reply #3 on: November 03, 2009, 05:51:59 PM »

I'll put money on the flywheel, I had to pull  the flywheel twice on a mUsTaNg one time to get it right.  It was more pronounced in reverse. Make sure it has the surface as in John's picture. 

The Snap On tools also help.
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Captain John Wykoff
Destin Fire     1.3 to go

I'm sick and tired of mismanagement and disappointment. 
I'm a COWBOYS fan.
1967RS
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« Reply #4 on: November 03, 2009, 06:54:09 PM »

John, first gear shudders, in reverse in shudders all through the driveline all the way to the rearend. So far it's 2 votes for the
flywheel. Thanks again to both of you for your input.
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Gramps69Z
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« Reply #5 on: November 03, 2009, 08:22:41 PM »

I just hope that fixes it.    Wink         I know it can be a pain to keep tearing it down.  Cry
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Captain John Wykoff
Destin Fire     1.3 to go

I'm sick and tired of mismanagement and disappointment. 
I'm a COWBOYS fan.
melav8r
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« Reply #6 on: March 30, 2010, 07:13:46 AM »

I realize this is an older thread and you've probably resolved your issue but,
after resurfacing the flywheel it is possible the the heads of the flywheel to crank bolts interfere with the clutch hub and vibrations are felt through the driveline until you press the clutch pedal, which of coarse increases the clearance.
If thats the case, you may consider removing the lock washers and using locking straps which will increase the clearance between the bolt heads and the clutch hub. I personally would replace the flywheel.
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montgomg
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« Reply #7 on: March 31, 2010, 06:53:28 AM »

The  orbital flywheel surfacer used to be called a blanchard grinder. May have other name(s) now.
I would not overlook engine mounts.
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JohnZ
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« Reply #8 on: March 31, 2010, 10:30:32 AM »

Here's what an orbital flywheel surfacer looks like - the turntable rotates the flywheel while the grinder spindle surfaces the flywheel, to achieve the non-directional surface.
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'69 Z/28
Fathom Green
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