CRG Discussion Forum
Welcome, Guest. Please login or register.
Did you miss your activation email?
October 23, 2014, 06:45:55 AM

Login with username, password and session length
Search:     Advanced search
Welcome to the CRG Discussion Forum!
Forum registration problems: Make sure you enter your email correctly and you check your spam box first. *Then* email KurtS2@gmail for help.
105673 Posts in 12339 Topics by 4754 Members
Latest Member: Jake
* Home Help Search Login Register
+  CRG Discussion Forum
|-+  Camaro Research Group Discussion
| |-+  Restoration
| | |-+  Trans install question
« previous next »
Pages: [1] Print
Author Topic: Trans install question  (Read 1653 times)
SMoon67
Member
***
Posts: 50



View Profile WWW
« on: September 20, 2009, 04:10:27 PM »

I'm still working on the 67 RS/SS I've mentioned here before.  I do most of the work by myself out in the garage, as I'm sure a lot of you do.  I've called in help when I needed two or three sets of hands, like removing the hood or installing the Muncie.  Which is what leads me to my question.

I picked up a transimission jack so that I could attempt to install the Muncie by myself this time.  It was in once but I had to remove it to address a couple of issues.  I've always done this the hard way with two of us under the car to lift it into place.  Now I'm using the jack and the trans seems to be hanging up and not going in all the way.  I don't want to break an ear on the case so I'm hesitant to crank the mounting bolts too tight but it seems like the thing just doesn't want to go that last 1/4" to 3/8" (more or less).  I've tried several ways to get it to go but it still seems to hang up.

Any suggestions or wisdom from some of you veterans that have done this many times before?  I'd sure appreciate it.

Logged

67 RS/SS 350 4 spd Marina Blue
http://www.picturetrail.com/smoon67
1988 IROC-Z Convertible
2002 SS 6 speed
JohnZ
CRG Member
*****
Posts: 4122


View Profile Email
« Reply #1 on: September 21, 2009, 10:11:01 AM »

I use a pair of 1/2"-13 x 2-1/2" bolts with the heads cut off, rounded, and screwdriver slots cut in them to install in the top two trans bolt holes in the bellhousing; that guides the trans and input shaft squarely into position and takes the load off the clutch disc during the install. If you still have a problem, have someone step on the clutch once you have the trans almost all the way home and it'll pop right in. Then remove the studs and replace them with the trans bolts.

I also use a plastic plug on the output shaft to keep the lube in the trans while you're wrestling with it.
Logged

'69 Z/28
Fathom Green
CRG
PURESS
Member
***
Posts: 124


View Profile
« Reply #2 on: September 21, 2009, 02:10:47 PM »

great idea John
Logged
SMoon67
Member
***
Posts: 50



View Profile WWW
« Reply #3 on: September 22, 2009, 05:57:35 PM »

Thanks for a great suggestion.  I was hesitant to even ask but I've never had one fight me like this.
Logged

67 RS/SS 350 4 spd Marina Blue
http://www.picturetrail.com/smoon67
1988 IROC-Z Convertible
2002 SS 6 speed
Marty
CRG Member
*****
Posts: 112


View Profile
« Reply #4 on: September 23, 2009, 12:14:02 AM »

I use the same set up as John and it works very well. I have an extra yoke that I use in the end of the trans. If it doesn't go all the way in, I turn the yoke while sliding the trans and it will pop in when everything lines up.

Martin
Logged

Martin Foltz
CRG Member
68 Van Nuys Camaro
L30M20
Newbie
*
Posts: 5


View Profile Email
« Reply #5 on: October 25, 2009, 12:43:32 AM »

I put a longer bolt in the trans to pull it in, luckly it worked and the trans works fine.
Logged
Pages: [1] Print 
« previous next »
Jump to:  

Powered by MySQL Powered by PHP Powered by SMF 1.1.19 | SMF © 2013, Simple Machines Valid XHTML 1.0! Valid CSS!
Page created in 0.164 seconds with 17 queries.