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Author Topic: Voltage regulator not working properly?  (Read 21187 times)
jeff68
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« Reply #30 on: May 02, 2006, 07:04:50 PM »

Adam-
Using the new plastic piece and metal connectors (tabs) will be just fine.  I only used my originals because they were in great shape.
Keep us posted.......
-Jeff
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68 L30 / M20 Convertible
Ash Gold
Adz28
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« Reply #31 on: May 30, 2006, 04:30:14 PM »

So far so good. I have been using the Frankenstein regulator in my car quite a bit and it seems to be working just fine.
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My68SS
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« Reply #32 on: June 01, 2006, 01:05:22 PM »

Great thread guys and superb work!!  Smiley
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Rob
1968 L34/M40 SS
12 bolt posi 3.55
Build - 12C
cib12
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« Reply #33 on: January 15, 2007, 07:16:38 PM »

in a repair shop years ago we always checked the voltage when new parts were replaced-Voltage when engine is running-  thats why the cover comes off the regulator- you can adjust the finial voltage out put(at the batter) to gm specs
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My68SS
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« Reply #34 on: January 26, 2007, 10:55:17 AM »

I should add a word of caution here. It seems after looking at the pics again, that the solid state pcb has copper traces on both sides. That being the case, it would be wise to place a thin sheet of electrical insulating material between the pcb and base to prevent any possibility of a short.
Whilst the coating over the copper traces is fairly robust, it's not designed to be a mechanical barrier.
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Rob
1968 L34/M40 SS
12 bolt posi 3.55
Build - 12C
jeff68
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« Reply #35 on: January 26, 2007, 04:24:01 PM »

I would think if it was a potential problem there would have been an insulator installed on the new solid state regulator.  The 'Frankenstein' regulator is assembled the same way as the new solid state regulator - the only difference is that you are using screws instead of rivets.
With that said, it may not be a bad idea to add the insulator, and it certainly won't hurt. 
Thanks for the heads-up.

Adam - If you're out there, let us know how the solid state regulator is holding up.
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68 L30 / M20 Convertible
Ash Gold
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« Reply #36 on: January 26, 2007, 04:43:30 PM »

As far as I can tell, it is working perfectly. I don't have any electrical issues. Before the swap, my battery would boil over, now it is fine. I am glad you remembered the set-up of the Solid State VR, because Rob does make a good point.

Jeff, I guess your car is out of paint jail. Post a picture...
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rich69rs
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« Reply #37 on: January 26, 2007, 05:46:26 PM »

While running both of my cars this past weekend (both have been converted to the solid state voltage regulator - 66 Chevelle in 2000; 69 RS in 2005) I checked the voltage of the charging system.  Both were essentially at 14.2 volts.  Solid state regulators have held up very well.
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Richard Thomas
1969 RS
jeff68
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« Reply #38 on: January 26, 2007, 05:54:46 PM »

Jeff, I guess your car is out of paint jail. Post a picture...
Ha! I wish!  I had problems matching my color in BASF paint.  The car was almost ready for paint, but the color match was horrible.  While I was figuring out the paint issue, the body guy slipped in another project before mine.  Unfortunately, I think that project may take years.  Oh well, I'm in no rush....plenty of other stuff to keep me busy.
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Ash Gold
My68SS
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« Reply #39 on: January 26, 2007, 11:01:35 PM »

Hi crew, I was imagining that maybe the mounting holes in the solid state base were slightly raised - dome shaped, to hold the pcb up a bit and give some clearance between the pcb tracks and the metal base?
Any pics of a solid state base with pcb removed?
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Rob
1968 L34/M40 SS
12 bolt posi 3.55
Build - 12C
jeff68
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« Reply #40 on: January 27, 2007, 06:29:36 AM »

Yes:


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68 L30 / M20 Convertible
Ash Gold
My68SS
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« Reply #41 on: January 27, 2007, 07:31:42 AM »

Thanks Jeff, it looks like the surface has a insulating coating on it? If it is, then that will be the electrical barrier.
Also, the white smear around the hole on it's own and in the lower right corner of the bottom pic, is that the remanents of a thermal compound?
Maybe their design was to have the pcb in close contact with the insulated base, with some thermal compound between the pcb and base so the base could act as a heatsink for the output transistor, which is the largest device on the board.
That transistor regulates the current through the rotor winding and hence controls the output voltage.
It will generate a bit of heat, especially driving at night with headlights on which demands more rotor current. Would also be advisable to check on the thermal design of the original solid state setup.
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Rob
1968 L34/M40 SS
12 bolt posi 3.55
Build - 12C
jeff68
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« Reply #42 on: January 27, 2007, 08:54:45 AM »

The resolution of the camera and the flash make the finish of the base look quite a bit different than it really is.  There is no coating on the base - I confirmed by testing continuity between the top surface of the base and many other points on the base.  I also scratched it and tried lacquer thinner in a small spot - nothing but plating.

The 'smear' around the hole is not thermal compound.  It is actually some very slight discoloration of the plating.

As far as the thermal design of the solid state regulator - the pcb was riveted directly to the base and a low-rise plastic cover was glued in place over it.  There should be no appreciable difference between the new solid state regulator and the original converted regulator.

 
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68 L30 / M20 Convertible
Ash Gold
My68SS
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« Reply #43 on: January 27, 2007, 12:13:26 PM »

Ok that sounds fine then, though I'm still nervous about a double sided board that's screwed hard to a metal surface. Maybe the traces on the back are all ground connects anyway?
Sounds like you know your electronics too   Wink
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Rob
1968 L34/M40 SS
12 bolt posi 3.55
Build - 12C
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