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Author Topic: RS headlight washers  (Read 3287 times)
Big_Al
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'69 L65 RS X11 Z87 Z21 713 40B DX1


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« on: June 14, 2009, 01:42:04 PM »

Anyone know the correct routing for the driver side headlight washer hose?

Mine leaves the bundle of vacuum hoses just under the fender well brace bolt point on the core support and runs through the larger triangular hole on the door hinge plate before connecting to the nozzle. This doesn't seem right as the hose is somewhat pressed against the headlight when open and rubs against the hinge plate when operating. The passenger side just takes a direct route above the hinge plate and I suspect the driver's side should also.

Should the hose travel further along the support before exiting? I don't see another tie point for the hoses any closer to the headlight.

Al
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I've owned three Camaros, '67 RS 327 convertible, '69 RS 350 coupe and a '73 Type LT 350 coupe with split bumper.
rich69rs
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« Reply #1 on: June 14, 2009, 08:57:56 PM »

Following two posts show routing on my '69 RS  Headlight washer lines can be seen just dangling as they exit from under the top of the core support.
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Richard Thomas
1969 RS
Big_Al
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'69 L65 RS X11 Z87 Z21 713 40B DX1


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« Reply #2 on: June 14, 2009, 09:19:33 PM »

Thanks for the help Richard. Sweet RS by the way.

Is that a retaining clip or hose tie I see peeking out directly under the hood adjust bolt?


Al
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I've owned three Camaros, '67 RS 327 convertible, '69 RS 350 coupe and a '73 Type LT 350 coupe with split bumper.
rich69rs
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« Reply #3 on: June 15, 2009, 12:02:03 AM »

Just a plastic strap that you see in several places to help hold various rubber hoses in place; about 3/8" wide with a wide "T" on one end with a slot.
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Richard Thomas
1969 RS
1968RSZ28
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« Reply #4 on: June 15, 2009, 12:48:39 AM »

Is that a retaining clip or hose tie I see peeking out directly under the hood adjust bolt?

Just a plastic strap that you see in several places to help hold various rubber hoses in place; about 3/8" wide with a wide "T" on one end with a slot.

Al -

The strap looks like this...  http://store.heartbeatcity.net/store/product/15032/RS-Plastic-tie-straps%2C-3pc/

Paul
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Big_Al
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'69 L65 RS X11 Z87 Z21 713 40B DX1


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« Reply #5 on: June 15, 2009, 12:09:43 PM »

Thanks guys, I'll order a bunch and tidy up the hoses a bit more.


Al
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I've owned three Camaros, '67 RS 327 convertible, '69 RS 350 coupe and a '73 Type LT 350 coupe with split bumper.
sixt9x33rs
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« Reply #6 on: June 16, 2009, 05:52:40 AM »

Following two posts show routing on my '69 RS  Headlight washer lines can be seen just dangling as they exit from under the top of the core support.

Rich,

Is it correct to have the plastic strap threaded through the hole in the radiator support? Good idea.
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'69 RS Z/28 Olympic Gold, 711
Flat hood no spoiler, black top, endura, 4:10
POP 39,000
69 X77 Z/28 69 711 Original Paint Unrestored
'69 X66 Convertible Cortez Silver 712 black top Endura, auto, bumper guards, am/fm rear speaker 44k miles
rich69rs
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« Reply #7 on: June 16, 2009, 01:22:19 PM »

I don't believe it is - it was convenient and helped secure the hoses.
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Richard Thomas
1969 RS
Big_Al
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« Reply #8 on: June 16, 2009, 01:54:33 PM »

My setup is original and hasn't been played with (except for the one runaway hose?) and the straps are not run through the core support holes.

It does look neater through the holes.

Al
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I've owned three Camaros, '67 RS 327 convertible, '69 RS 350 coupe and a '73 Type LT 350 coupe with split bumper.
1968RSZ28
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« Reply #9 on: June 16, 2009, 10:21:19 PM »

The correct placement of these straps is in the AIM under UPC Z22.  The AIM calls them "retainers".

Paul
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sixt9x33rs
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« Reply #10 on: June 17, 2009, 06:06:07 AM »

I don't believe it is - it was convenient and helped secure the hoses.

Before I took mine apart I photographed everything along with the location and count of straps, and they were not in the holes. I did not think mine had ever been apart but you never know for sure. I put them back as they were and did not use the holes, but like I said earlier it is a good location to support the harness and hoses.

Good looking car. Did you re use your hoses and actuators or buy new?
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'69 RS Z/28 Olympic Gold, 711
Flat hood no spoiler, black top, endura, 4:10
POP 39,000
69 X77 Z/28 69 711 Original Paint Unrestored
'69 X66 Convertible Cortez Silver 712 black top Endura, auto, bumper guards, am/fm rear speaker 44k miles
rich69rs
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LF7/M35/Z22/Z87


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« Reply #11 on: June 17, 2009, 12:49:53 PM »

Replaced the actuators, although my originals were still working and I still have them boxed up and stored away.  All of the hoses were replaced including the vacuum hoses that penetrate the firewall and connect to the headlight switch.  Repos were good and properly color stripe coded.  What I view as the potential weak link in the system is the relay valve.  Mine is original, still works fine, but it would be a very difficult item to replace.  I have to admit, I haven't looked in a whiile, maybe others have better/newer information, but the repo relay valves that I've seen in the past were not correct - service replacements that had a differing appearance.

As far at the straps, I tied down both the vacuum hoses and headlight washers in more places than the AIM showed primarily because from time to time in the past I had issues with the doors sticking in the open position.  It was difficult (at least with my ride) to keep the vacuum lines properly secured with just the original tie downs and core support clamp.  If the vacuum hoses slip out place, they can interfere with the doors as they open resulting in the doors binding agianst the vacuum hoses and remaining stuck open.   So....when I put everything back, I tied them down in a few extra places to ensure that there would be no interference with the operation of the headlight doors.
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Richard Thomas
1969 RS
sixt9x33rs
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« Reply #12 on: June 18, 2009, 06:40:29 PM »

Replaced the actuators, although my originals were still working and I still have them boxed up and stored away.  All of the hoses were replaced including the vacuum hoses that penetrate the firewall and connect to the headlight switch.  Repos were good and properly color stripe coded.  What I view as the potential weak link in the system is the relay valve.  Mine is original, still works fine, but it would be a very difficult item to replace.  I have to admit, I haven't looked in a whiile, maybe others have better/newer information, but the repo relay valves that I've seen in the past were not correct - service replacements that had a differing appearance.

As far at the straps, I tied down both the vacuum hoses and headlight washers in more places than the AIM showed primarily because from time to time in the past I had issues with the doors sticking in the open position.  It was difficult (at least with my ride) to keep the vacuum lines properly secured with just the original tie downs and core support clamp.  If the vacuum hoses slip out place, they can interfere with the doors as they open resulting in the doors binding agianst the vacuum hoses and remaining stuck open.   So....when I put everything back, I tied them down in a few extra places to ensure that there would be no interference with the operation of the headlight doors.
One more RS question. Did you replace your springs on the door mechanism? I did not and think that I may have a weak spring on the passenger side. The door opens and closes but is slow and I have good vacuum. Sometimes a little nudge gets the passenger side to complete its cycle. I am also going to recheck for binding and lube everything but I have done this once already and had no binding and the door opened good.
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'69 RS Z/28 Olympic Gold, 711
Flat hood no spoiler, black top, endura, 4:10
POP 39,000
69 X77 Z/28 69 711 Original Paint Unrestored
'69 X66 Convertible Cortez Silver 712 black top Endura, auto, bumper guards, am/fm rear speaker 44k miles
rich69rs
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LF7/M35/Z22/Z87


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« Reply #13 on: June 18, 2009, 07:44:50 PM »

No changes made to the springs.
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Richard Thomas
1969 RS
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