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Author Topic: Stupid ??? How do you change the oil in a Muncie?  (Read 4989 times)
fasterweride
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« on: February 05, 2009, 11:47:33 AM »

There is no drain plug.  I feel stupid to ask this ?, but I have never had one of these.  There must be a way without pulling it out and tipping it upside down.
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1968RSZ28
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« Reply #1 on: February 05, 2009, 01:03:34 PM »

The first generation Camaro manual transmission and rear axle lubricants did not require changing for the life of the vehicle; therefore GM didn't provide drain plugs (except for the Muncie M22).

Here's a couple of suggestions of how to do it in the car from TC...

http://www.camaros.net/forums/showthread.php?t=95285&highlight=changing+fluid+muncie

Paul
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fasterweride
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« Reply #2 on: February 05, 2009, 01:42:22 PM »

Thanks.  It probably doesn't need changed.  I will check the level and see what the oil looks like.
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Classic Gary
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« Reply #3 on: February 05, 2009, 07:22:32 PM »

the bottom most and rear most bolt were the tail housing and the main case bolt together, remove that and i THINK the fluid comes out.
And YES by all means change the fluid, after all these years of heat/cool cycles there is no tellin' the condition of the oil !!
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1968RSZ28
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« Reply #4 on: February 05, 2009, 09:33:05 PM »

the bottom most and rear most bolt were the tail housing and the main case bolt together, remove that and i THINK the fluid comes out.

Gary -

This is risky as I've know people who have done this and have had seepage afterwards at the gasket between the transmission case and tail housing.

Just take some vinyl tubing and siphon the fluid out through the fill plug.     Smiley

Paul
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heckler
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« Reply #5 on: February 05, 2009, 11:17:18 PM »

You could also pump it out with a manual vac..  I use one to change the oil in my boat and ski.

You can get one from a boating store.
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JohnZ
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« Reply #6 on: February 06, 2009, 10:39:09 AM »

The first generation Camaro manual transmission and rear axle lubricants did not require changing for the life of the vehicle; therefore GM didn't provide drain plugs (except for the Muncie M22).

True, except no one in those days ever DREAMED that the "life of the vehicle" would be more than ten years. Use a suction gun and a length of vinyl tubing through the fill plug hole to remove the old lube, and refill with any brand-name 75W90 or 80W90 GL-5 gear lube.
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'69 Z/28
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fasterweride
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« Reply #7 on: February 09, 2009, 08:55:55 AM »

Thanks for all the good info.  I will change the oil yearly.
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sam
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« Reply #8 on: February 10, 2009, 08:23:34 AM »

I don't think it is necessary to change it yearly. Huh
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JohnZ
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« Reply #9 on: February 10, 2009, 12:02:49 PM »

Thanks for all the good info.  I will change the oil yearly.

With the kind of usage and care these cars get today, I think once every 5-10 years would be fine.
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'69 Z/28
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« Reply #10 on: March 25, 2009, 04:16:39 AM »

As a side note, when I last changed my Muncie lubricant, I used a 50/50 mix of one half standard 30 weight motor oil and one half pancake syrup as a thickening agent to boost viscosity and enhance the oil's ability to bond to the gearsets.

A benefit of this mixture is sweet, buttery shifts.

In addition, on hot summer days, after a couple hours of driving, a wonderful "maple-y" aroma fills the passenger compartment, wafting up through the console.

Although, a somewhat creepy apparition is sometimes seen in the rear view mirror, a ghostly image of Aunt Jemima in the back seat.

 WEIRD ! 

 Grin 
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69Z28-RS
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« Reply #11 on: April 01, 2009, 04:27:55 PM »

*L*..  guys used to mix in a little STP oil treatment to slick up their shifts (in the south), but..  never heard the Aunt Jemima trick.....   an advantage would be in cleaning the lube off your hands..     just LICK it off. .   Smiley
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Gary W.  /  69Z28-RS, 72 B 720 cowl console rosewood all tint
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copo69
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« Reply #12 on: April 01, 2009, 07:59:03 PM »

Make sure you use GL-4 rated gear lube rather than GL-5 as the GL-5 causes corrosion on the synchros.
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JohnZ
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« Reply #13 on: April 02, 2009, 04:00:42 PM »

Make sure you use GL-4 rated gear lube rather than GL-5 as the GL-5 causes corrosion on the synchros.

Not true - that's another "internet legend".
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'69 Z/28
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