Author Topic: Dipstick finish  (Read 7997 times)

Pex68

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Dipstick finish
« on: January 08, 2009, 12:24:43 AM »
Can anyone confirm what finish the top portion (where you put your finger) is supposed to have and is it the same for the collar that goes over the tube?  Thinking gray phosphate on both? 
Chris P
1968 Sequoia Green SS 396/325 M20

Jerry@CHP

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Re: Dipstick finish
« Reply #1 on: January 08, 2009, 04:50:54 AM »
It's just natural steel metal finish, not phosphated,

Jerry

Pex68

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Re: Dipstick finish
« Reply #2 on: January 08, 2009, 04:26:15 PM »
Thanks Jerry, was looking at some pics of NOS ones and they looked dark gray.  There had to be some kind of finish on them otherwise they would have been rusty before they were even installed.  So how would one go about restoring an original that has rusted over?
« Last Edit: January 08, 2009, 04:50:04 PM by Pex68 »
Chris P
1968 Sequoia Green SS 396/325 M20

JohnZ

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Re: Dipstick finish
« Reply #3 on: January 08, 2009, 05:41:48 PM »
Here's my original '69Z dipstick - no coating of any kind - just natural steel, as Jerry noted.
'69 Z/28
Fathom Green
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Pex68

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Re: Dipstick finish
« Reply #4 on: January 08, 2009, 05:52:49 PM »
Great, thanks John.  So still the question...How to restore a rusted over original???  If I steel wool it, it will look polished, Navel Jelly will leave a light Phosphate finish, sand blast-ruined.   What's one to do???
Chris P
1968 Sequoia Green SS 396/325 M20

CVKUEBER

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Re: Dipstick finish
« Reply #5 on: January 08, 2009, 06:10:20 PM »
What year and engine size?
GM parts-tech. Polar Chevrolet White Bear Lake, Mn

Sauron327

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Re: Dipstick finish
« Reply #6 on: January 08, 2009, 06:29:41 PM »
I use electrolysis for many parts instead of relying on my cabinet or sandblaster blaster all the time. Set it up and walk away. Aside from finding a dipstick ( I might have one left), this is your best alternative. If someone knows a better method, please update.  You guys out there can do this to many parts if you don't have a shop set up. Just punch in "ELECTROLYSIS FOR RUST REMOVAL" and you will get a plethera of sites with info.

Pex68

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Re: Dipstick finish
« Reply #7 on: January 08, 2009, 06:36:52 PM »
68 396/325  Have my original, just need to restore it.  Forgot about the ELECTROLYSIS thing, read about it a few times in the past but never tried it.  Have to give that a shot with something to see how it comes out. 
Chris P
1968 Sequoia Green SS 396/325 M20

CVKUEBER

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Re: Dipstick finish
« Reply #8 on: January 08, 2009, 06:43:15 PM »
Part # is 3989391 68-69 big block. Still available from GM. Should be the same style as the one in JohnZ's photo above. Natural steel finish.
GM parts-tech. Polar Chevrolet White Bear Lake, Mn

Pex68

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Re: Dipstick finish
« Reply #9 on: January 08, 2009, 06:48:08 PM »
Have the correct service replacement already, it's not correct for concourse judging.  Dimple in handle and PN on stick.  That's why I'm looking to restore my original. 
Chris P
1968 Sequoia Green SS 396/325 M20

JohnZ

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Re: Dipstick finish
« Reply #10 on: January 14, 2009, 04:11:26 PM »
Great, thanks John.  So still the question...How to restore a rusted over original???  If I steel wool it, it will look polished, Navel Jelly will leave a light Phosphate finish, sand blast-ruined.   What's one to do???

Clean the surface rust off with lacquer thinner and a fine Scotchbrite pad, and shoot it with satin clear.
'69 Z/28
Fathom Green
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firstgenaddict

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Re: Dipstick finish
« Reply #11 on: January 14, 2009, 04:20:21 PM »
I use mineral oil sometimes on parts as it is not petroleum based and doesn't gum up.
James
Collectin' Camaro's since "Only Rednecks drove them"
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