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Author Topic: Removing control arm bushings  (Read 2604 times)
Wazoo151
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'67 SS Clone


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« on: May 08, 2006, 01:12:33 PM »

I did a search for this topic, but did not find anything.

I am currently in the process of working on the front end of my 67.  I have pulled all of the suspension pieces and am looking to remove the control arm busings before I send the pieces out for powder coat.  My chassis service manual describes a bunch of specialized tools for removing these bushings - any thoughts on how to do so without factory tools?  On the datsuns I have restored, you burned out the rubber with a torch, then chiseled the metal casing until the seal broke.  However, on those cars the metal sleeve was on the outside of the bushing, on the Camaro, it's on the inside (complete with nut).  I have an air chisel I have been thinking of using...

Any thoughts would be appreciated!

Robert
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rich69rs
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« Reply #1 on: May 08, 2006, 02:08:04 PM »

I would suggest taking your control arms to a good shop with the proper equipment.  Pressing them out isn't too big of a deal.  However, when you go to press them in, care must be taken to properly support in between the two cqontrol arm bushings so as not to distort the control arms while pressing the bushings in. 

The old ones can even be burned out, but I wouldn't recommend it - messy, oily smoke, etc.

On my 66 Chevelle as well as the 69 RS, I took the control arms to a qualified shop and had it done for a few $$$ - not expensive at all.

On a side note, be sure to research / discuss with the shop how the new bushings are going to be pressed in after you've powder coated the control arms.  ID area of control arms where the bushings press in need to be kept free of any paint / powder coating.  Same is true for the lower ball joint which also presses in.  The shop needs to understand what you are doing so that they do not mar up your restored and freshly powder coated control arms when they go to press in the bushings / lower ball joint.

If you go with eurethane bushings, the bushings will come with the sleeves - if you go with rubber, depending on where you get them, you might need the original sleeves, which is why some folks used to burn out the bushings to save the sleeves.

Pics below show the RH control arms from my 69 RS after refinish and new bushing / ball joints.  Bushings used were Energy Suspension eurethane.  Has worked very well on both of my cars.
« Last Edit: May 08, 2006, 02:18:05 PM by rich69rs » Logged

Richard Thomas
1969 RS
hotrod68
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« Reply #2 on: May 24, 2006, 10:16:33 PM »

You can knock out the upper A-frame bushings with an air hammer and a blunt chisel, but the bottom ones won't budge! They need to be pressed out. A ball joint press will work. However, I'd recommend having a pro press all of the new bushings in Wink. I used urethane, too, Rich. They squeak, but I'm told after a bit they'll take a set and stop. I sure hope so!
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HotRod'68  1968 SS350 coupe undergoing frame-off resto/rod. 386/350/4.11s
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rich69rs
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« Reply #3 on: May 31, 2006, 12:26:25 PM »

Squeaking hasn't been an issue so far.  The Engergy Suspension bushings that I used are advertised as being graphite impregnated.  During reinstallation of the control arms in the sub frame, liberal use of the supplied white grease.  So far so good, no squeaks.

« Last Edit: May 31, 2006, 12:29:27 PM by rich69rs » Logged

Richard Thomas
1969 RS
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