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| | |-+  How do I remove and install the stainless drip molding on my 69?
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Author Topic: How do I remove and install the stainless drip molding on my 69?  (Read 3422 times)
wtexz10
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« on: February 11, 2006, 11:22:06 PM »

I would like to remove my drip molding on my 69 so that I can polish it.  Can someone tell me how to remove it and reinstall it with our damage?

Thanks,

Kris  Undecided
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69 Camaro Z10
72 GMC C1500
79 Mazda RX7
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06 Corvette Z06
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fiveforty
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« Reply #1 on: February 12, 2006, 09:15:23 AM »

I've never had that good of luck removing and installing those. If it was me I think, being in the location they are in I would polish them on the car. Goodluck.
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lakeholme
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« Reply #2 on: February 12, 2006, 10:28:11 AM »

If you are just talking about rubbing polish on it, then I agree with fiveforty.  You can take a paint shield (or a piece of cardboard) if you are afriad to get the polish on your paint.
But if you are talking about refinishing the molding, a friend of mine just took his off to be professionally redone.  He said to be very careful of the ends and any points where it joins together, in order to not mess up the fit.  Also, don't use pliers with rough edges and scratch the molding.  Make sure the molding doesn't get too bent out of its original shape, or you might put a crimp in it. He also found some wax and dirt buildup under the molding, which he compounded off.
Take your time... and good luck
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Phillip
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m22mike
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« Reply #3 on: February 15, 2006, 09:55:59 PM »

If there is anyway to leave them on and polish in place, do that.
These can be a ball buster to get off without messing up!  FORGET the urge to use pliers. I have had good luck with bumping them off with a piece of hardwood, maple or cherry work well. Make a fresh cut on a table saw so you have a good sharp edge, a 10 to 12" long 1x2 and maybe a narrower one for the curved part at the back window.
 With the windows down, and from inside the car, hold the wood block squarley on the lower lip of that moulding and start from the front working aft and tap the block with a hammer and you should get it to start rolling off. It helps to have some help holding the moulding with slight tension to ease it off as you tap, and watch your paint. If you have a helper they can use a light twist to help the moulding along, It can get alittle tricky as you work the curved section. Work slow take your time.
                                                Good luck Mike  Wink
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JohnKY
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« Reply #4 on: February 16, 2006, 01:18:48 AM »

If you have an old bottle opener (the kind with a can opener on the other end), it will take them off quickly and without any damage.
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deejaygee
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« Reply #5 on: February 16, 2006, 11:32:17 AM »

If you have an old bottle opener (the kind with a can opener on the other end), it will take them off quickly and without any damage.

Get TWO of the old-style bottle cap openers. Wrap black electrical tape around the ROUND ends (not the pointy end), to avoid scratching or denting the moulding. GENTLY pry off the mouldings, starting with the L-shaped connector piece. Using two tools avoids twisting the moulding when you pry.
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wtexz10
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« Reply #6 on: February 16, 2006, 04:38:43 PM »

Thanks to all of you!  I've just about convinced myself to polish them on the car.  I fear I might mess them up.

Kris   Embarrassed
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69 Camaro Z10
72 GMC C1500
79 Mazda RX7
04 Mazda RX8
06 Corvette Z06
10 BMW 650i
wtexz10
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« Reply #7 on: March 04, 2006, 01:18:26 AM »

Well, after considering my options and my fear of messing up my drip rail moldings, I decided to polish them on the car.  Just for those who might want to do this, I used my Dremel with a flexible cable drive.  I used a small cloth buffing wheel with white buffing rouge.  Total time to polish both sides, 1.5 hours. 
They look much better!  Cheesy

Regards,
Kris
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69 Camaro Z10
72 GMC C1500
79 Mazda RX7
04 Mazda RX8
06 Corvette Z06
10 BMW 650i
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