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Author Topic: Bare Metal Surfaces  (Read 2134 times)
Larry
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« on: May 29, 2008, 12:24:26 PM »

Eastwood makes a Diamond Clear for bare metal surfaces. It keeps the metal from rusting. Does anyone recommend using this or does it take away from the originality of the car.
Thanks,
Larry
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RamAirDave
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« Reply #1 on: May 30, 2008, 12:29:41 AM »

You likely wont have good long-term results.

It's something that I experimented with for several years.  Many different prep methods as well as product from rattle can to $250/gal clear, including the EW stuff.  Meticulously prepped and cleared bare metal would show rust underneath within weeks of just sitting on a shelf in the shop.

Paint needs a good surface to "bite" and adhere.  It's why you have to use an etch/epoxy primer on bare metal.  You don't just spray base/clear over bare metal.  You could sand/scuff the bare metal and clear and maybe get decent adhesion, but not a good appearance.

What I did find to hold up was to prep the bare metal in a metal etching solution prior to clear.  It gives the clear something to stick to without altering the appearance of the metal.

In my "experiment" pictured below, both were blasted with new media, never touched by bare hands.  Immediately etched with Sherwin Williams etch product W4K288.  Distributor clamp was cleared with EW Diamond Clear, washer coated with Boeshield.  They were left outside and saw very harsh weather conditions during that time.

After one month:



After 5 months in which they saw snow, ice, storms, vast temp changes, etc. (one of the most odd seasons, even considering the crazy Ark weather.)

« Last Edit: May 30, 2008, 12:56:44 AM by RamAirDave » Logged

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scoop
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« Reply #2 on: November 21, 2011, 09:03:34 PM »

Has anyone tried Shatkhide?  I have been using it on many metal parts that you want the original patina on. It is a clear liquid that you can apply with a rag or brush or spray. It dries clear and does not have any type of build or paint look. It soakes into the metal surface and the more coats you put on  the better resistance. I used it on my rear four leaf springs that were natural finish to start, and on my front coil springs. They look  completely natural and will not rust. I coated a piece of metal that was sandblased and submurged it in water for a week, pulled it out and it looked just like I put it in. The stuff is awsome.  Especially on leaf springs, where you cannot get paint to stay on a moving surface. I have got many restores in my area to use it and they all like it. You can go to Sharkhide.com to check it out. Eastwood also sells it.
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IZRSSS
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« Reply #3 on: November 22, 2011, 06:32:24 AM »

Thanks for sharing. Its always nice to hear about new products that work and rust inhibitors is certainly one of them. The claim is apply every couple years so I'm assuming every two years. Can anyone confirm?
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Charley
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« Reply #4 on: November 22, 2011, 09:52:38 AM »

I tried the Sharkhide with one coat and it didn't work very well. Maybe I should have used more. My friend that builds bikes gave me some of his. I think he said it was about 90.00 per quart ?
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lakeholme
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« Reply #5 on: November 22, 2011, 02:56:11 PM »

How about the clear POR 15?  Has anyone tried that for a clear coating?
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Phillip
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