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Author Topic: Dash  (Read 3008 times)
shift1313
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« on: January 13, 2006, 09:05:55 PM »

I was just wondering how far down you can take the dash.  At a first glance it looks like the the only removable pieces are the glove box door, switches and gauges and the vents.  Ive pulled the dash pad off but the rest looks spot welded.  Do you guys leave that along when you are doing a full resto?
thanks
matt
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clwilcox
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« Reply #1 on: January 14, 2006, 04:41:22 PM »

The dash face itself is indeed welded in.  You cannot remove it easily and don't need to for a restoration if it's in good shape.
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Christropher
1967 RS/SS 350......in pieces still.
shift1313
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« Reply #2 on: January 15, 2006, 05:14:21 PM »

thanks.  do you have any tips on removing the glove box face.  The stop that goes through the dash doesnt seem to want to be removed.  Does it actually pull out of the glove box face and get removed from the back side?
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Buddy
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hurcousa
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« Reply #3 on: January 17, 2006, 08:53:10 AM »

You can work it out of the hole. There is a piece of rubber you can remove to make it easier.

Buddy
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SS375HP
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« Reply #4 on: January 17, 2006, 11:21:59 PM »

I definitely agree that in most cases the dash face would not need to be removed. And as stated above by "clwilcox" it isn't easily removed. This one was removed to repair many "extra" holes that accumulated over the past 38 years.
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British Green
68 L78
Phoenix, Maryland
www.lucas-restorations.com
shift1313
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« Reply #5 on: February 22, 2006, 07:26:22 PM »

did you just drill out the spot welds to do this?  not that im planning on removing mind but just wondering

matt
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ogbean
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thesupernova_86@hotmail.com thesupernova86@yahoo.com
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« Reply #6 on: February 24, 2006, 12:49:42 PM »

I will have to replace the dash face panel in my 68 due to warpage cause by an under dash fire sometime in the past... any tips on removal...ill be replacing the upper dash panel as well.
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David

1968 L30 4spd Huh, Rally Green, White Vinyl Top, Ivory Houndstooth Interior (716), D55 console, D91 Stripe
sumrtime68rs
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« Reply #7 on: March 01, 2006, 01:03:55 AM »

I did the same removal of my dash due to rust issues at the lower windshield area. I was fortunate enough to locate a perfect 68 donor car at a local wrecking yard with a good face,top and radio hole. We drilled the spot welds at the front edge (below the cowl panel/lower windshield edge) and left the seam intact under the dash pad. We made the repair to the lower level cowl panel metal then installed the nicer dash face and top panel in one piece. We then re-welded the spots along the front edge and the two mounting points at the "A" pillar bottoms and the one center dash panel brace (near the radio area) and it looks factory. After a little grinding to the spot welds and a little seam sealer in the right places you cannot tell a repair was made. You do have to re-rivet the original VIN tag on a 68. By the way, I did start with an after market upper dash metal piece but it did not quite cover the area I needed to fix. I wish I had pictures of the repair as it went a lot easier then it sounds. The hardest part is finding that good donor! I have seen used dash faces ebay. Hope this helps, Dan
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ogbean
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« Reply #8 on: March 01, 2006, 12:49:52 PM »

Finding the dash face isnt a problem at all. I have acess to no less than 5 67-68 car in a scrap yard in MS. None have vins or cowl tags or much more than the main body left to them... i am planning on buying 3 or 4 of these this coming summer.
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David

1968 L30 4spd Huh, Rally Green, White Vinyl Top, Ivory Houndstooth Interior (716), D55 console, D91 Stripe
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