CRG Discussion Forum
Welcome, Guest. Please login or register.
Did you miss your activation email?
April 23, 2014, 02:32:56 PM

Login with username, password and session length
Search:     Advanced search
Welcome to the CRG Discussion Forum!
Forum registration problems: Make sure you enter your email correctly and you check your spam box first. *Then* email KurtS2@gmail for help.
97480 Posts in 11715 Topics by 4581 Members
Latest Member: Cooper48
* Home Help Search Login Register
+  CRG Discussion Forum
|-+  Camaro Research Group Discussion
| |-+  General Discussion
| | |-+  Voltage regulator conversion to electonic
« previous next »
Pages: [1] Print
Author Topic: Voltage regulator conversion to electonic  (Read 2542 times)
Dave69x33
Member
***
Posts: 346



View Profile Email
« on: December 04, 2007, 09:27:11 PM »

Last year I recall a discussion about modifying an original voltage regulator to electronic.  I have not had any success in getting my original unit to work properly, so I performed a variation of the conversion I read about on CRG. 

My goal was to retain the stock look of the regulator which meant retaining the resistors on the back side of the original unit.  The resistors can be seen when the unit is mounted on the core support.  The electronic regulators work great and are trouble-free but I wanted to retain my original date coded regulator body.

The conversion worked well, yielding proper voltage; however, the resistor between terminal F and 4 gets hot, even when the car is off (indicating current flow).  I realize that the electronic unit no longer needs the resistors on the back side of the unit.  I would like to discretely isolate the resistor.

Question:
Can I do this by simply cutting a small slot(s) in one or both of the metal connector tabs to break the current flow thru it?  See the red lines in the picture of the back side of the regulator.
 
The conversion process:
1.) Remove the guts from the original regulator.  DO NOT REMOVE ANY RIVITS OR STUDS THAT RETAIN THE METAL TEMINAL CONNECTORS ON THE BOTTOM SIDE OF THE REGULATOR.  Instead, cut the stem off any stud and grind the heads of the remaining studs and/or rivets down to within about 1/16" of the base.

2.) On the new electronic regulator, drill out the rivets to remove the circuit board.  Use caution not to remove electric contact rings or eyelets of material under the rivet on the circuit board. These eyelets are what make the electrical contact to the circuit board.

3.) Clean the heads of the ground off rivets.  Line up the (4) eyelets in the circuit board with the rivet heads on the regulator.  Apply generous drops of solder in each eyelet to secure the circuit board to the rivet heads.  See pic.

4.)   Add a ground lead similar to the lead on the electronic unit, to the rivet on head toward the rear.  See attached pictures.

PS: I cannot yet attest to the durability of this conversion but will keep you posted.  If you attempt this conversion, and drive your car, keep a spare electronic regulator tucked away in your car just in case!
Logged
rich69rs
Hero Member
*****
Posts: 864


LF7/M35/Z22/Z87


View Profile Email
« Reply #1 on: December 05, 2007, 01:28:56 PM »

http://www.camaros.org/forum/index.php?topic=561.msg9275#msg9275

I believe the above link is the discussion that you referred to.
Logged

Richard Thomas
1969 RS
jeff68
Member
***
Posts: 349



View Profile
« Reply #2 on: December 05, 2007, 02:19:14 PM »

Dave-
I don't see why you couldn't  do what you are suggesting.  Once you make the cuts, the resistor will be isolated.  If you want, it looks like you only really need to make one of the cuts to isolate the resistor.
-Jeff
Logged

68 L30 / M20 Convertible
Ash Gold
tom
Hero Member
*****
Posts: 1125


View Profile WWW Email
« Reply #3 on: December 05, 2007, 06:39:50 PM »

If you cut just one, I check which lead is hot, and cut that one.  The top contact in your photo looks to also have a ground connection to the frame, might mean the other lead is hot.

Tom
Logged

69 X11 Z21 L14 glide
looking for a 69 export model (KPH) speedo
9T4Z
Member
***
Posts: 239



View Profile WWW Email
« Reply #4 on: December 10, 2007, 12:30:26 AM »

Dave that looks like a real nice setup. 

As far as isolating the resistor, isn't it just a externally wound resistor?  Just nip one of the little spiral wires and the circuit is broken.  Then you don't have to hack through the
heavy lead where you marked, and the nip would be invisible.

regards
Logged

Gary 9T4Z

94Z rag blower 491 rwhp (now 505!)
69 Pace Car, 70RS,91Z,91RS
Dave69x33
Member
***
Posts: 346



View Profile Email
« Reply #5 on: December 10, 2007, 06:27:46 PM »

9T4Z,

Outstanding.  Sounds simple enough! I'll try it.  Wink

Thanks,
Logged
Pages: [1] Print 
« previous next »
Jump to:  

Powered by MySQL Powered by PHP Powered by SMF 1.1.19 | SMF © 2013, Simple Machines Valid XHTML 1.0! Valid CSS!
Page created in 0.102 seconds with 17 queries.