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Author Topic: Painting advice  (Read 5790 times)
427
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« on: May 08, 2007, 08:21:53 PM »

I have a 69 SS which is now painted Lemans Blue.  I am having it returned to its original color- Cortez Silver.  This is my first camaro after many corvettes and really do't think i've seen a Cortez Silver car.  A few question for someone who knows Camaros.
1. Does Cortez Silver paint have any metalic in it?
2. After base coat, how many coats of clear is advised?
Thanks for your help!
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sd1968z28
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« Reply #1 on: May 09, 2007, 08:11:28 AM »

yes it is metalic, i alway put on 3 coats of 2021 ppg clear.
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427
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« Reply #2 on: May 09, 2007, 03:42:00 PM »

Thanks for your response.
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Flowjoe
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« Reply #3 on: May 17, 2007, 01:31:25 AM »

Here is a shot of a friends car....originally a lemans blue car that was painted Hugger Orange when he got it ...he changed it to Cortez Silver...I might have another shot
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Flowjoe
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« Reply #4 on: May 17, 2007, 01:34:50 AM »

found one of the back
I'm not a big fan of Cortez Silver myself...the car in the pictures is an 05A Norwood car...same as my Z..which oddly enough was Cortez Silver from the factory...but hasn't been that way in at least 25 years (I bought it in yellow and have kept it that way since)
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Jerry@CHP
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« Reply #5 on: May 17, 2007, 03:52:46 PM »

Do not clear coat over any stripes.  That's a no no in the judging world.  The base clear colors can be matched to originals very easily as long as you have a competent paint supply house.

Jerry
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RamAirDave
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« Reply #6 on: May 17, 2007, 11:07:38 PM »

Do not clear coat over any stripes.  That's a no no in the judging world.

Does a lower-quality lacquer paint job (with an occasional run or dry spot like factory) score better than the glass-smooth BC/CC paint jobs you see on many of the high-tier cars?

Just something Ive wondered.  You see the meticulously applied overspray, markings, etc. to replicate what the factory did, then the car has a perfect $20K paint job on it.
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Jerry@CHP
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« Reply #7 on: May 20, 2007, 12:09:14 PM »

Today's lacquer is not the same that GM used back in the 1960s.  For one, the lead is gone and the lacquer you buy now will not hold up.  Does not have the integrity.  My red '68 Z is living proof.  Paint job is just about 20 years old and it's falling apart.  This car has been garage kept since it was done so do not make the same mistake that I made.  Use the base coat clear coat systems.

The two survivor Z28s that I own with original paint at just about like new.  I rest my case.

Jerry
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Ron C.
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« Reply #8 on: May 20, 2007, 01:08:16 PM »

So Jerry,when I have the stripes painted on my z dont have them clear coated? Do you have to feel a raised stripe over the base color? what paint doesnt require a clear coat for stripes?
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Jerry@CHP
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« Reply #9 on: May 20, 2007, 02:15:26 PM »

Yes, use a single stage paint to do the stripes after the base color coats are done.

JM
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sd1968z28
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« Reply #10 on: May 20, 2007, 02:36:30 PM »

but they catch wax and polish bad if not cleared over.   and if you can improve on the crummy factory paint why not do the best possible job that can be done.  don't get me wrong,  i am looking at an original 69 350 2bl auto car right now with only 30,000 actual miles.  terible paint but its original and if i buy it, the paint will remain original.  its hugger orange real cool.
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Jerry@CHP
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« Reply #11 on: May 20, 2007, 08:02:32 PM »

Not true,

My 1967 turquoise Z won every award that you can win all over the country and it was done this way (factory striping) with no wax issues.  Even won many "Best Outstanding" restored at the ISCA World of Wheels shows in Baltimore and Wash DC.  They don't care about how you stripe the car either.  If you do it right it will make no differnece.  Clear coating over the stripes is a no no and I tell all of my customers not to do this and they agree.

Jerry
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RamAirDave
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« Reply #12 on: May 20, 2007, 11:44:52 PM »

Jerry, I definitely agree with you about the current lacquer's durability.

I guess my question pertained more to how a perfect, mirror-smooth paint job would score against one that "appeared" more like what came out of the factory, orange-peel and all.
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RamAirDave
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« Reply #13 on: May 24, 2007, 12:57:13 AM »

Jerry,

Since you are highly respected (especially by myself) in this field, and in judging these cars, I am still curious for the answer of my above question.

I know very few restorers attempt to replicate the factory quality paint (I include myself in the "over-restoration" group), just one of the areas in judging I have wondered about.
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Jerry@CHP
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« Reply #14 on: May 27, 2007, 02:39:57 PM »

I am not a painter so I can't tell you how many coats to apply.  That is up to your painter.  If he does not know, then you need to find another painter. 

One person cannot not do every task of a restoration by himself, that is why it's best to leave things like paint up to a professional.  I'm in the process of getting my new "Project Stocker" '67 Z28 painted right now and we've had no problems matching the original color........or how the job will be done.  It will be base coat clear coat with single stage on the white stripes.  If any of you have more questions or issues regarding these things, you need to attend the ACA Camaro Nationals in Carlisle, PA.  This is where the best of the best are in the country and you can see everything up close and personal.  You can also talk with national event judges and get the correct answers for any issues that you have.

Regarding the finish, you can leave it textured a little if you do not wet sand the car totally flat.  Doing this will give you a GM factory painted look.  All of this depends on how much the car is wet sanded after it's painted,

Jerry


 
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m22mike
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« Reply #15 on: May 28, 2007, 09:51:29 PM »

Yes, use a single stage paint to do the stripes after the base color coats are done.

JM
Jerry is right on the mark here. I have done a Z28 and SS Camaro's and Chevelle's stripes by single staging them right on top of the clear. Sand the clear with 1000, use good 3m striping tape. After the stripes are painted, sand the edges at 45 degrees in both directions to break the sharp tape edge, and do not get crazy with this or they become to smooth. The end result is you can feel the edge, and no way will it hold wax or polish.
 Some of my non painter know it all buddies will then try and say, " well Single Stage won't be as shiney as the clear". Bull ! most of the high end Pebble Beach cars are done in Glasurit SS, most of them are non metalic.
                                                                                       Mike
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