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Author Topic: OEM 302 Valvetrain Adjustment  (Read 2396 times)
PDQUICK
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« on: December 13, 2005, 11:48:40 AM »

Longtime listener, 1st time caller!  Wink

I love this site and have learned a lot about my 1st gen over the years!

Just a comment on John and  Dukes excellent report on cold adjustment of lash on mechanical cams:

As a long time user of mech. cams, racer and engineer, the best, easiest and most generic method (long cam, tall cam, short cam...) of adjusting valves without using a damper marking tape, degree wheel, etc... is this:

Remove one valve cover, ground the coil high-tension lead, attach a remote starter switch to the starter motor.

Plugs in or out, bump the engine with the starter until the exhaust valve JUST BEGINS TO OPEN and adjust the intake valve for that cylinder. With the exhaust just starting to open, you are assured of the intake lifter being on the lobes base circle. 

Now, bump the engine again until the same cylinders intake valve JUST STARTS TO CLOSE and adjust that cylinders exhaust valve. With the intake just starting to close, you are assured that the exhaust lifter is on the lobe base circle.

Repeat for all eight cylinders, re-install the V/Cs, replace the coil wire, remove the remote starter switch.

I know that many other methods will work, but this is dead accurate regardless of cam profile and can be done in about 20 minutes!

Paul D.
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bob69
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« Reply #1 on: December 22, 2005, 11:33:55 AM »

sounds like a good way to do it, I think next time I'll give it a try  Bob

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GaryL
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« Reply #2 on: December 24, 2005, 03:35:43 PM »

It seems to me that you could do it your way,then use CRG method and see if your lash is still correct, too loose or too tight. If it is too loose or too tight that is no good. I use the CRG method and there is no clacking. It sounds like a sewing machine.  Wink
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Gary

Lemans Blue X33. DZ, M20, manual steering. Only BU code rear end is original.
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