Replacing Heater Control Cables - Maybe

[camaronut]

I'm a glutton for punishment, and want to replace the heater control cables in my 69 SS.  The left-most control is really tight to push up & down, and I already had to replace the control knob once, and not really fond of breaking it again, so - has anyone done this?  If so - what's the secret?

I'd appreciate any actual "been there done that" advice.

[David K]

Assuming it’s original, I would first remove the whole thing-cables included. Clean and lube everything, including the cable inside the housing and swivel point set the cable ends. Original typically fares better than some replacement.

[KevinW]

I agree on removing everything.  4 things that cause bindings, you have to check them all individually, 1:lever action on heater control, 2: switches/vac modules, 3:cables, 4: heater box arms.

Once you find which one(s) are binding, fix those. If cables are rusty internally, maybe some evaporust?  then a thin lube like slick 50 to free them up. my .02

[camaronut]

So - I guess I have to remove - the dash pad / radio / ash tray / glove box.  Oiii........oh well - its a winter project.

I've noticed that most of the heater controller assemblies I see on ebay - etc, has that left-most knob broken off......so I'm not the only one that has this issue. Must be something inherent to that part of the heater / doors inside the heater box.

I know one thing - I'm NOT removing that heater box....da hell with that! 

[Stingr69]

I "functionaly" rebuilt mine.  Used a common aftermarket choke cable housing. 

Just remove GM control cable assembly from the kick panel and nip off the end of the steel inner cable as close to the jog as possible so you can pull it out of the original plastic housing.  You will be reusing the GM inner steel cable/knob assembly so it looks original once installed. 

Remove the aftermarket inner choke cable from its housing and discard the inner cable/knob.  You will need to measure carefully to set the final length of the replacement cable housing (just a little bit shorter than the original cable housing).  The reason you have to cut it short is because you already trimmed off the original cable so that is shorter now.  Put the original knob/cable into the new housing and duplicate the factory jog bends.  Reinstall the cable assembly.  Works great and looks stock unless you pull the lever out and look very closely where it goes thru the kick panel. Sharp eyes will see the tiny zinc end of the new cable housing only.

Might work for you.

[camaronut]

Stingr - I appreciate the response, but I'm talking about the heater control cables on the dash, not the kick panels. 

Btw, I already took the heater controller off and re-oil / greased the slides so that they were easier to move up / down.  The left most slider that controls the air / blower motor - the switch was very hard to move.  I just took it all apart and cleaned / and used dielectric grease for the inner contacts.  Works way easier now.  2 out of the three cables are easy to replace - its the cable that goes to the left most slider - ain't no way!!! I had the entire dash apart - and it's a pita to replace if you really had to.