Parking Brake Switch Issues

[Chuck-68-Cam]

Me again. I have been reading all most everything I can but I have another WTH moment. My parking brake is not aligned with anything that would depress the switch when parking brake is applied. I have triple checked the switch, verified it's location and mounting (12 B9 AIM page 168) See the picture below. Any ideas as to what's going on?

On a side note, anyone know any tricks to tightening driver door mirror? It's the ball pivot and socket that has all the play.

Thanks

[x66 714]

You're missing this....Joe

https://www.classicindustries.com/product/all-years/pontiac/firebird/parts/14652.html?gclid=EAIaIQobChMI3tPK15ua-QIV_8LCBB3p-wPBEAQYAiABEgJNbPD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds

[Chuck-68-Cam]

Thanks Joe. I don't remember seeing that in any of the manuals.

[bertfam]

You're missing two things. The "clip" (1968 AIM UPC 5, Sheet C1 Item 14, P/N 3908628) and the "strap" (1968 AIM UPC 12, Sheet B9, Item 4, P/N 3916762). The "strap" is the part that Joe linked.

And if it's an aftermarket mirror, good luck!! Do a search and you'll find a few ways to TRY and tighten it, but most won't last. Anything from peening the housing to superglue!!

Ed

[David K]

That Ed guy beat me to it again!!
Upload a picture or 2 of the mirror screw in question .

[Chuck-68-Cam]

Thanks Ed. I Looked right at it and thought "I don't need a strap" and moved on. I think if the name said clip, or retainer I might have caught it.

I saw the clip for it when I started looking around for price. If anyone is interest, the price range was $11.00 to $28.00. I have half a mind to just make the thing.

Anything from peening the housing to superglue!!

Ed

LOL, don't think it it didn't cross my mind.

Dave, thanks for the attempt. I'll throw some pics up in the morning. I am going to read up on removing the mirror. Maybe there is something inside to crimp or tighten...who knows.

I want to thank you guys for always replying. Very much appreciated. I am still looking for new post I can help/answer, but all of them are above my paygrade...LOL I just got this car so this is all new to me.  But I'll get there.

[Chuck-68-Cam]

Here are those pictures Dave. And to be clear, it's the ball and socket that is not tight.

[camaronut]

The mirror is glued in place in four spots underneath the mirror.  If you can get MEK, place the entire mirror portion in a metal container and pour some MEK up to the ball.   Wait a day or so, and the mirror might fall out.  If not, I used fishing line and got it underneath and up again and gently pulled up on both ends of the line.  It should come off.  Tighten what you can where the ball is and reglue the mirror back with silicone. Just be careful using MEK….. it’s nasty stuff.

[Chuck-68-Cam]

Thanks. Kinda what I was thinking, the only difference was I was thinking heat. I have nothing to loose by searching and trying. I need a new one right now if it doesn't hold position. I'll let you guys known if I have success with anything...help out some others.

[David K]

The old college try might work, but I would buy a new one and move on. Then try your luck at the mirror trick. My2 cents.

[bertfam]

Tightening the ball stud might work with an original mirror (see instructions HERE), but (unless they've made a design change), the reproduction mirror isn't built the same way and doesn't have any adjustment. Is your mirror a factory original?

Ed

[Chuck-68-Cam]

Nice info there Ed. That is what I was hoping for. I have no idea if mine is original or not, never looked.

[Sauron327]

Tightening the ball stud might work with an original mirror (see instructions HERE), but (unless they've made a design change), the reproduction mirror isn't built the same way and doesn't have any adjustment. Is your mirror a factory original?

Ed

They do have adjustment. I own a shop and do this everyday. Most hobby people do not and have very little mechanical skills

[bertfam]

They do have adjustment. I own a shop and do this everyday.

This is a VERY common problem so would it be possible for you to give us a tutorial on how to adjust the repop mirrors? Maybe a few pictures too?

Ed

[169INDY]

Wow! #12     Yes, Please post a DIY
I did the glass replacement on mine, but a friend had a wobbly mirror and I always enjoy others-sharing Tip(s) & Trick(s) to improve most of my hobbyist skill set.

[Sauron327]

Posts on mirror repair are on this site, as well as the other Camaro site. My 20 year old incorrect bowtie ones are rock solid. Own a classic, use your head and figure it out. Piece of cake.

[Chuck-68-Cam]

I soaked it in mineral spirits. I put it in about 8pm. Realized (Just now) I left my drink in the garage. While I was in there, I picked it up and the mirror was already detached. an hour is not bad. Turned out mine has only silicone in two places caddy-cornered. Mine has rivets. Figures

[bertfam]

That sounds like a repop. Look on the glass itself. Is there something like 4 DMI 8 or similar?

Ed

[David K]

Well that’s a bummer because it’s rivets and not screws. I guess we learned something new. Do you think you could drill out the rivets and install screws?

[Chuck-68-Cam]

I will check this morning for any markings. And that is my hope Dave. I'm going to look and see if that seems doable.

[camaronut]

I don’t think they’re rivets, just metal tabs smashed down on the pressure piece against the ball.  You’re only recourse is to get a hammer and re-mash them down again with the mirror against a piece of wood.  If it’s a repo, I’d just get new one… not worth the effort.

[David K]

Upload pictures of what you used, what vessel you soaked it in, and if found and any markings. Did you finish your drink?

[Chuck-68-Cam]

No markings on the glass ed.

As for the rivets, I don't think they are rivets.  I think they are part of the casting and they are peened down like camaronut said. I could be wrong but that is what I see. Anyway, padded it in the vice and did a bit of smashing. It looks like someone already did a repair as one "rivet" looks a bit beat up. That would also explain the caddy-cornered silicone. Nice and tight now, no damage to mirror or housing and mirror is drying right now.

And who is Scott Drake?

[Chuck-68-Cam]

Oh yea, I did finish my Drink Dave...lol

[bertfam]

Yeah, it's a reproduction. Scott Drake is one of several manufacturers that reproduce outside rear view mirrors. Toss it and buy a new one.

Ed

[Chuck-68-Cam]

It's already fixed and drying. I'm a happy camper with the results of the fix. 

[David K]

I would do what Ed recommends, because we don’t need a “I told ya so”. It’s not slam on your ability (although someone believes you have very little mechanical skills),  but I’d hate to read that post about your mirror glass jumping out of a perfectly good housing. Because then you’ll have to “reflect”on this post. 🫣🫣. Either way, upload some pictures of how your assembly project progresses to the car…and that park brake switch bracket too.

[Chuck-68-Cam]

 ;)Again, I have nothing to lose by trying it. I either do it now, or when the glass falls out. If it don't fall out, yea for me...lol And the way they make things today, who's to say the mirror won't fall out on the new one. I'll have pics of completed job by tomorrow.

[bertfam]

If it's not all pitted up and still looks good, then yes, by all means get it working again. Repops are like 60 bones now!

Ed

[KurtS]

I own a shop and do this everyday. Most hobby people do not and have very little mechanical skills

Absolutely no need to insult 'hobby people'. That's not constructive.

[william]

Why is that considered an insult? I have worked on cars owned by smart, successful people happy to pay others to do what they can't-or don't want to.

"A man's got to know his limitations."

Some thin-skinned people here.

[william]

https://www.yenko.net/forum/showthread.php?p=1596878#post1596878

[bcmiller]

Nobody knows everything. Each of us has ability that varies. I try to be nice (doesn’t always come across that way though). I figure if I answer questions to a few things I know - hopefully I might get help later on.

[Chuck-68-Cam]

Well it seems to be GTG, Here are the finished photos. As you can see, it was worth the effort to try and save it. It's a clean mirror.

[bertfam]

Great job!

Ed

[David K]

Nice!!!

[169INDY]

Victory always Love a 749 trimmed 68!

[Chuck-68-Cam]

Thanks gents. You guys make me look good.

[David K]

No Chuckman…that mirror makes YOU look good. So what glue did you use to hold the glass? You showed us the disassembly, what about the assembly? Somebody out there will probably do this to their car.

[Chuck-68-Cam]

Thanks Dave. There was not much involved in assembly, just cleaned and applied IMPERIAL High-Temp Sealant. Now how long the fix applied last, will have to wait and see.

[David K]

We won’t make that decision, Scott Drake will. Got a picture of that imperial stuff? I also assume you out it in all 4 post? And I found out how to put a signature on my posts….all because of this thread.
What’s next for the car?

[Chuck-68-Cam]

Yea, I applied silicon to all four posts this time. Picture of silicon below.

What's next, Not sure really. I am thinking getting the front and rear windows resealed. Whoever did it the last time should stick to their day job. Hopefully it's not already his day job or that would be really bad. See pictures. Front seal is leaking on trans so that is on the list also. Those are 2 things that I will be farming out.

Things I am going to do is replace the kick panels. I found a really clean pair for $125.00 shipped on ebay.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/165596008931?nma=true&si=wZmiY90CKocUawQcEReODZ5405Q%253D&orig_cvip=true&nordt=true&rt=nc&_trksid=p2047675.l2557

The flaps on mine are horrible, and they also cut horrible looking holes in them for speakers. I think I am going to pull the console back out. AMP gauge does not work and the bulbs on all 4 barely illuminate the gauges. I also have one gremlin to track down, interior light does not come on when door is opened.

I bought this in late June, and though July I have done the following..
Installed a new shifter (wrong one was installed)
Installed new Shifter cable
Installed new console (old one was chopped up to fit the wrong shifter)
Installed console gauges
Installed Tic-Toc-Tach with new circuit film
Installed new console harness (to support the gauges and low fuel)
Installed under-dash harness  (to support the gauges and low fuel)
Installed both under hood Harnesses (HEI ready)
Installed low fuel light and the warning lens
Installed Tach filter for Tic-Toc-Tach
Installed hood liner
Installed new parking lamps up front
Installed glovebox lamp
Installed trunk mat
Installed driver door window guides
Installed rear window package tray and liner
Installed rear seat-Trunk divider and insulation
Installed new kickdown harness
Installed period looking USA-230 radio and four speakers

The nice part is that with all the work I did, everything works. From all the posts I thought I was going to have a hard time with the Tach and low fuel, but they are right on the money.

[David K]

Well done on that list. I surmise that reply #12 does not apply to you, or 99% of the people on this site.

[Chuck-68-Cam]

No, not at all. I was a mechanic for some 26 years. ASE certified in brakes, suspension and electrical. I even had my own shop for 3 years until the bank sold the property without even letting me make an offer. After that I managed a Meineke for 7 years. So, I know my way around. It's the Camaro specifics that you see I need help on.

[David K]

I also have credentials but don’t need to shove them into peoples faces. And nobody knows everything.
I just linked your mirror repair to Camaros.net because someone needs to fix their mirror before they sell the car.

[Chuck-68-Cam]

Thanks guys. Works like a charm.