Author Topic: Preservation of a 68 Camaro (Read 27107 times)

cook_dw · « **on:** December 01, 2021, 01:09:31 PM »

I’ve thought long and hard about this and I think, with the rising interest in proper restorations coupled with the surging popularity of survivor cars, while discussing with a core member we agreed it would be a good topic to discuss. While I have decided that since RGR is no longer in business and, myself, wanting to help the community, I wanted to start a new thread on how and when to try to attempt preservation on these survivors. I will be using my 68 Z as the platform for the processes I use. I recently brought this car home from a prolonged storage at a friends home and I, then, took a small vacation from my automotive duties. Now that the fog has settled, I have looked the car over and decided to abandon the original plan. Which was restoration that has now turned into a preservation attempt.
I thought seeing how far it had deteriorated to reviving the remaining original car and enjoy the path and hopefully learn some new info along the way. Overall I look forward and encourage additional input from some of the; as I like calling them, Automotive Preservationists. My approach will be from a person that likes to work in the garage and maybe doesn’t have limitless resources but I think an average enthusiast can do and feel good about doing it. Also if you have never attempted any of these processes do so on a test panel or junk part before moving to the desired part or area needing the work. Let me make it clear I am certainly no expert when it comes to preserving as this has always been a hobby. With that said, Let’s get started…

First let’s go over the history of the car to date 11/22/21. Car was originally ordered by Capitol Chevrolet in the fall of 1967 and left Van Nuys plant on 12/22/67.

Unfortunately no history has been found but the trail starts to pick up in the spring of 1970 with this article from the Austin Statesman newspaper. I believe that this is potentially the order in which the story goes at this point. Purely speculation to date.

01/20/70

Person w/ 68 Z writes into newspaper about hill climbing/gymkhana racing.
Columnist T.Q. Jones suggests going to Armstrong-Johnson Ford and meet up with the Cobra Colts Mustang Club.

While this is going on a salesman by the name Bill Pevey sends out a note in the paper that he was currently at Henna Chevrolet the other dealership in Austin aside from Capitol.

01/30/69

Bill Pevey ad for him moving to Henna Chevrolet

cook_dw · « **Reply #1 on:** December 01, 2021, 01:20:00 PM »

The cause for this info as he then writes another ad in the for sale section that he was back at Armstrong Johnson Ford in

03/14/70

Bill Pevey (salesman) ad listing he left Henna Chevrolet to work for Armstrong-Johnson Ford dealership

This becomes important as Mr. Pevey places another ad several months later of a, you guessed it, 68 Z.

07/16/70 - 07/18/70

Ad appears 68 Z for sale to contact Bill Pevey with A/J phone number 454-3711

Also of note is the company Armstrong Johnson is undergoing a name change from the 51% of Bob Armstrong’s ownership being bought by Leif Johnson (which already owned the remainder 49%) in July of 1970.

07/27/70

Article about Leif Johnson buying out Bob Armstrong's 51% share of company to become primary owner of Ford dealership which would include the name change from Armstrong-Johnson Ford to Leif Johnson Ford.

This is very important as the car still has the Armstrong Johnson of Austin dealer emblem on the tail pan. For the next month or so there are several ads with a 68 red Z28 for sale on the lot.

cook_dw · « **Reply #2 on:** December 01, 2021, 01:24:42 PM »

This is where the lead cools off for a couple years. We fast forward to April 1972 when I was able to obtain the last known registration of my Camaro’s vin in the Texas DMV database. A gentleman named Mr. Donald A. Dixon.

cook_dw · « **Reply #3 on:** December 01, 2021, 01:57:28 PM »

I have been searching for Mr. Dixon since 2013 as some of you might remember from previous posts. The summer of 2021 became another jumping off point and reignited the search when a friend gave me access to their newspapers.com search and ultimately subscribed myself. As I made my way through all this new found info I began the search again for Mr. Dixon. Mr. Dixon originally was from middle TN and went to Texas for basic training and met a young lady that he dated for a month or two and as it turns out went to his girlfriends house for dinner one night. As he pulled in there it sat in the yard like a shiny penny fresh off the press. He amazingly worked a deal with her father (traded is 69 Roadrunner and $50 for the 68 Z) which was a wheeler dealer of used cars on the side from being a Major. There were several training camps in the area as the Major was living in New Braunfels, Texas. Mr. Dixon said the first thing he did after getting back to the base was go to the local speed shop and bought a new Hurst shifter. Once Dixon finished training and was finally done with his service to our country he moved back in 1974. Upon coming back to middle TN he traded the 68 Z into EB Smith Chevrolet on a 72 Monte Carlo and as he put it the worst mistake he ever made..

No results were found on any transactions or listings for a 68 Z from EB Smith from 1974-1975. The belief is EB wholesaled it to another used car lot where the next owner bought it in 1975. His name was Randy Cassidy. From ‘75 until 2005 he owned the car and in the late 70’s decided to blow the car apart and begin a resto. Luckily for me, the car sat basically untouched until this fall. My father, along with myself, had been after the car for as long as I remember. With the passing of my father in Oct of 2006 the car was passed on to me for ownership. And with that, the preservation will begin.

cook_dw · « **Reply #4 on:** December 01, 2021, 02:56:13 PM »

To start the preservation I decided to work on the pass side roof and see how much the ole Matador Red will come back to life.

Steps used to accomplish this was the following:

1. Wash with your favorite dish soap. Mine is Dawn and dry with a microfiber towel
2. Pick a clay bar of your choice and go over the area you are preparing. Mine for this project is Pinnacle clay bar and Meguiars Quick Detailer as the lubricant.
3. Apply a generous coating of Meguiars #7 polish and hand polish it like you are mad at it and let it sit overnight and out of direct sunlight.
4. 800, 1500 and finally 2k wet grit paper - work backwards to make sure you don't go too far on prepping the painted surface and then go back in the order listed. Every car is different so I can't stress this enough but take your time and practice before you get aggressive with the paper.
5. Meguiars #105 with a wool pad on a DA polisher. Reason I do not use a buffer as you can burn the paint quickly if you are not used to operating one. DA polisher is much more forgiving in this regard.
6. Meguiars #105 with a firm microfiber pad on a DA polisher.
7. Meguiars #105 with a medium (maroon Meguiars) pad on a DA polisher.
8. Meguiars #205 with a soft (black Meguiars) pad on a DA polisher.
9. Finish the area again with #7

Now these are the steps I use and seem to have decent success with this. Realize that every car is different and other products will most likely do the same but for me I have had positive results using Meguiars so that is what I used.

Photo 1 - After washing and clay barring the application of the #7

Photo 2 - Roof after after wet sanding and #105 & #205 (steps 5-9)

cook_dw · « **Reply #5 on:** December 01, 2021, 02:58:52 PM »

Photo 3 - Sail panel after wet sanding and before polishing

Photo 4 - Sail panel after polishing

Photo 5 - Pass quarter before steps listed in previous post

Photo 6 - Pass quarter after

cook_dw · « **Reply #6 on:** December 01, 2021, 03:03:54 PM »

Photo 7 - Pass door before

Photo 8 - Pass door after

Photo 9 - Quarter and door after

janobyte · « **Reply #7 on:** December 01, 2021, 03:16:13 PM »

Looking like this is going to be a great thread.

169INDY · « **Reply #8 on:** December 01, 2021, 04:34:43 PM »

Keep AT IT!

lakeholme · « **Reply #9 on:** December 01, 2021, 04:37:22 PM »

Quote from: janobyte on December 01, 2021, 03:16:13 PM

Looking like this is going to be a great thread.

I agree! I love the before and after contrast on pass side in photo 8. Great idea to do this from the preservation approach. The result is what a truly original car looks like. Thank you for sharing your work!

cook_dw · « **Reply #10 on:** December 01, 2021, 05:32:07 PM »

Thanks gentlemen.

I was fortunate enough for a fellow CRG'er had a good eye and located me an original dealer emblem from Capitol Chevrolet. Thanks Bentley. As you can see although the emblem is a newer design without the attachment pins for the emblem which would have been later replaced by adhesive the location of the ejector pin locations match up perfectly with the original holes that were placed in the tail pan.

jwbavalon · « **Reply #11 on:** December 01, 2021, 08:19:07 PM »

I'm looking forward to following this thread.

adjudimo · « **Reply #12 on:** December 02, 2021, 02:47:07 AM »

This will be definitely worth following. thanks.

cook_dw · « **Reply #13 on:** December 02, 2021, 01:27:26 PM »

While I work my way around the backside of the car I continue to use the same procedures mentioned above. Some things to note. The car, at some point (I can confirm prior to April '72 when Dixon bought the car), had been tapped in the rear and I believe that is when the spoiler was added and the trunk lid reshot and a touchup area on the pass side quarter. I will leave it as found as I do not want to disturb the condition of its history. You can also note the original paint along with stripes which were under the spoiler and once an emblem is in place you can see what's left of the cut out of the stripe for said emblem. I will not this later on as I had to find an original replacement emblem as they did not move the emblem when the spoiler was installed. Underside is still original and the remnants of the jacking instructions along with glue residue from the posi traction decal. I will document those later in the process when I begin the trunk area clean up. Now to the photos.

Photo 10 - Another shot of the roof after final process. It's still show imperfections like stains etc. Unfortunately I do not know of anything that will rid them from the paint surface as it embeds deep into the paint.

Photo 11 - Trunk Lid before.

Photo 12 - A little sanding brought out the original stripe under the repaint on the lip of the lid.

cook_dw · « **Reply #14 on:** December 02, 2021, 02:56:13 PM »

Photo 13 & 14 - Trunk lid after. You can see how the reshot did not hold up well over the years. But again will not refinish. You can also see that the pass side bumper guard does not sit flush on the bumper. This is due to what I believe was also part of the rear end bump it obtained. I will have to replace it with an original replacement due to the lower bracket that is welded to the guard broke its welds. I have several used guards so this will not be an issue. The primer sprayed on the drivers quarter and upper quarter and sail panel will be addressed. I will remove this primer and keep whatever is underneath up to the surface.

cook_dw · « **Reply #15 on:** December 02, 2021, 03:17:02 PM »

Photo 15 - is the tail panel before being stripped down to begin cleaning of this area.

Photo 16 & 17 - That decal is a parking sticker for a local University here in TN. Middle Tennessee University and is dated to expire in Aug 15 1976. This was when the previous owner finished high school and attended MTSU in '75 but never finished as he was hired on full time with the postal service in Nashville, TN.

cook_dw · « **Reply #16 on:** December 02, 2021, 03:20:32 PM »

Photo 18, 19 - are the tail panel cleaned and prepped. Again using the same procedures listed in previous posts.

Photo 20 - you can see how the panel was popped outward around the guard mounting hole due to previously discussed tap. I will address this once I am ready to reinstall the components of the tail section. Also not that every bumper to body bolt and bracket had dum dum around the opening.

rocco376 · « **Reply #17 on:** December 02, 2021, 03:27:43 PM »

Amazing stuff. Keep the photos coming please.

cook_dw · « **Reply #18 on:** December 02, 2021, 03:52:20 PM »

Photo 21 & 22 - While the trunk lock is out I went ahead and did a cleaning and polishing of it. Granted there is some residue in the key hole after polishing but will be removed and clean when reinstalled.

cook_dw · « **Reply #19 on:** December 02, 2021, 03:55:44 PM »

Photo 23 - 25 - Also while out I cleaned the tail light bezels and housings. Bezels were done with Zep Citrus Degreaser (can be purchased anywhere I'd assume but I get it at Home Depot) and a hand polish. Then the housings I did the same Zep cleaning and after wiping them down I used #0000 steel wool and a soap water solution and cleaned the galvanized. I think they turned out ok being originals.

cook_dw · « **Reply #20 on:** December 02, 2021, 04:00:22 PM »

Photo 26 - 29 - Rear side marker lights were soaked in dawn soap and hot water to get them cleaned and then I used the da polisher and #205 to clean up the lenses. Sorry no before photos on these.

cook_dw · « **Reply #21 on:** December 02, 2021, 05:08:59 PM »

Photo 30 - 32 - Last updates for today. This was the original license plate light before cleaning. Cleaning procedure is pretty much the same citrus degreaser but then I soak it in evaporust. Once out of the evapo I coat it down with RPM (Rust Preventative Magic). From my experiences the evapo will remove zinc plating or cad plating. I decided to proceed as I was going to protect it with RPM.

cook_dw · « **Reply #22 on:** December 02, 2021, 05:10:23 PM »

Photo 33 - Lens was the same citrus degreaser and then a minor polish.

Photo 34 - Assembled and ready to install

cook_dw · « **Reply #23 on:** December 03, 2021, 01:25:24 PM »

Continuing on. As mentioned previously the passenger side bumper guard was damaged and wasn't repairable without welded and damaging the chrome on the shiny side. So I dug around my pile of parts and found a suitable replacement as well as a set of very clean original rubbers and installed them. I am pleased with the finished product.

Steps of cleaning were:

1. Citrus degreaser
2. Evaporust bath (submerge into 5 gal bucket). This took a solid 2 days with the weather in the 30-60F
3. Hard metals polish (green stick) on a buffing wheel on a pedestal mounted grinder.
4. Finish with RPM on the back sides of the guards and hand polish the chrome

Hardware for the guards while using all the original components consist of markings of RBW (bolt supplier). Something to note while I was going through my other guards I had 2 "A" lettered bolts from one of the sets. Food for thought.

EDIT: Like to mention the upper bracket and bolt were zinc plated and required soaking in evapo on the bracket and a cleaning & polishing of the bolt Lower bolt is phosphate and only soaked in evapo and then coated in a silicone based lubricant. I used PB Blaster Silicone Lubricant.

Photo 35 - 37- Before photos of the chosen replacement and the original guard from the drivers side.

cook_dw · « **Reply #24 on:** December 03, 2021, 01:31:06 PM »

Photo 38 - 41 - After results

cook_dw · « **Reply #25 on:** December 03, 2021, 01:42:46 PM »

Before I get too far ahead I wanted to go back and clean up the passenger door handle and lock. The handle had a very small amount of micro pitting but I feel like I was able to reduce it some. So a thorough cleaning with, yep you guessed it, citrus degreaser and then hard polish on the buffing wheel. Something I'm not sure many realize or maybe its me and I had forgotten but don't forget to button gasket. Luckily mine was not damaged and still pliable so I reused it.

Photo 42 - Before handle and sorry didn't get a shot of the lock prior.

Photo 43 & 44 - After.

cook_dw · « **Reply #26 on:** December 03, 2021, 01:47:09 PM »

Photo 45 - 46 - Door lock clip in its original finish along markings

Photo 47 - Trio shot including the trunk lock.

cook_dw · « **Reply #27 on:** December 03, 2021, 06:25:04 PM »

As I mentioned yesterday I was going to have to source a trunk lid emblem and a header panel emblem which came in the first part of this week. No pitting and a little worn. Should fit perfect with the layout of the car.

Photo 48 - Header panel emblem

Photo 49 - 51 - Trunk emblem. You can see the original painted stripes have the contour cutout for the emblem which is why I removed most but not all of the body work that had been done prior to me getting my hands on it.

cook_dw · « **Reply #28 on:** December 06, 2021, 03:48:35 PM »

Not much of an update over the weekend due to other projects but I did want to tie up the loose end of the door handle bolts and their markings. Cleaned in Evaporust and then soaked with PB Blaster Silicone Lubricant.

Photos 52 - 54 - Pass side door handle bolts

cook_dw · « **Reply #29 on:** December 06, 2021, 04:16:37 PM »

Next major milestone in this project will be building a small form to soak the rear bumper in Evaporust and see how well it can be revived. Here are some before photos of the bumper brackets, bolts and nuts. Again soaked in evapo and the sprayed with silicone lubricant.

Photos 55 - 58 - Before photos of the brackets etc. Note the overspray on the outer bumper bracket due to the repair on the quarter.

cook_dw · « **Reply #30 on:** December 06, 2021, 04:17:18 PM »

Photo 58

cook_dw · « **Reply #31 on:** December 06, 2021, 04:21:52 PM »

Photo 59 - 61 - Removed the overspray and was able to keep the original finish on the brackets. I coated in them RPM after being soaked in evapo. Notice a trend yet? lol

BTW screws are for the license plate light.

Kelley W King · « **Reply #32 on:** December 06, 2021, 04:31:19 PM »

What did we do before evaporust?

68camaroz28 · « **Reply #33 on:** December 06, 2021, 10:03:26 PM »

Great detail and effort Darrell.....

cook_dw · « **Reply #34 on:** December 10, 2021, 08:18:41 PM »

Thanks. Working around the car to the drivers quarter. Still some of the same. Wash, rinse, repeat.

Photo 62 - Before

cook_dw · « **Reply #35 on:** December 10, 2021, 08:20:49 PM »

Photo 63 - 65 - After

cook_dw · « **Reply #36 on:** December 13, 2021, 05:10:43 PM »

Got a couple hours yesterday to rough in the drivers door and get the drivers side of the roof sanded and polished and then my Meguiars maroon pad that was on its last leg finally let go so I had to order a few new ones.. Oh well... Again same of the previous, wash rinse, sand, buff repeat.

Photo 66 - Driver side roof before

Photo 67 - Roof after cleaning, sanding and polishing and loaded up with #7 a left to sit overnight

Photo 68 - Drivers door before

Photo 69 - Drivers door after wet sanding and before polishing

cook_dw · « **Reply #37 on:** December 14, 2021, 01:14:58 PM »

After allowing the #7 to soak in overnight I hand buffed it off the rest of the car (doors and roof back minus the drivers door). Also polished the drivers door handle and lock so at least that mini project is now finished.

Photo 70 - Door handles and locks finished

Photo 71 - 72 - Roof & quarter after #7 soaking

cook_dw · « **Reply #38 on:** December 14, 2021, 01:17:33 PM »

Photo 73 - 76 - After hand buffing

cook_dw · « **Reply #39 on:** December 14, 2021, 01:19:37 PM »

Photo 77 - 79 Roof after hand buff

lasereye · « **Reply #40 on:** December 19, 2021, 12:43:03 AM »

Following for sure
Preservationists …love it. My only question thus far is what DA stands for? And what care or procedure
should be used around the nonpainted portion of the D-90 stripe? Thanks

firstgenaddict · « **Reply #41 on:** December 19, 2021, 02:21:19 AM »

DA is dual action, which means oscillating as well as rotating.
There are two types of DA actions one is free spinning and the other is geared - the geared cuts hard and fast, the free spinning is more finesse.
On the geared the pad will not spin, it oscillates and gear drives the head in a circular motion.
Makita makes one which will do both, perhaps other companies make similar DA's? The makita brand gearDA is over $500.

cook_dw · « **Reply #42 on:** December 20, 2021, 02:23:30 AM »

As always James is correct. I’m not fancy and when I decided to start playing around with preserving many years ago I didn’t wanna spend a ton on a DA polisher so I went to Harbor Freight (yeah I know..). Only things I did were by the advice of Mike Phillips of Auto Geek which was blow the unit apart and lube the drive gears with hi temp grease and swap the backing plate to a 5” Lake Country and I’ve been using Meguiars 5” foam pads ever since. I’ve tried several pads and meguiars for me last the longest and work the best for what I wanna do. The HF da is a free spinning unit so there is no worry (for me anyways) when it comes to taped portion of stripes. But with everything always try on a junk or spare part before using on whatever you actually are working on.

Also new updates coming tomorrow.

cook_dw · « **Reply #43 on:** December 20, 2021, 12:51:58 PM »

Over the weekend between periods of rain and Christmas shopping I was able to get a couple things done and started. New pads finally showed up Friday afternoon so I was able to wrap up the drivers door.

Photo 68 - again this was before

Photo 69 - was after wet sanding

Now with new photos

Photo 80 - After da polishing

cook_dw · « **Reply #44 on:** December 20, 2021, 12:52:54 PM »

Photo 81 - 82 - Continuation of after

cook_dw · « **Reply #45 on:** December 20, 2021, 12:54:49 PM »

I then moved my attentions to getting the remainder of the parts that I had inside the trunk and interior so I can move forward in the cleaning to the insides of the car.

Photo 83 - 84 - Trunk area after removing parts and before cleaning

cook_dw · « **Reply #46 on:** December 20, 2021, 01:01:30 PM »

As you will notice in the previous photos the tail light harness was just hanging outside of the trunk. Well... That was due to me not being able to get the thing out of the trunk drop off. It was hung on something.. So with my trusty archeological digging tools (screwdriver, flash light and magnet) I began the excavation of what was causing the resistance. I also found one of the (what I believe to be the original) barrel nuts that fit into the tailpan for the dealer emblem. And yes I have all the tools soaking in evapo so I can have them with the car as who knows how long they have been in there and I think it's fitting for them to continue to travel with the car just not in the drop off of the trunk..

Photo 85 - 86 - Tools found

cook_dw · « **Reply #47 on:** December 20, 2021, 01:13:00 PM »

Now that the harness is out of the way I figured I'd see just how well the trunk would clean up.

Photo 87 - drivers side cleaned vs untouched passenger side

Photo 88 - Both sides after starting the cleaning process.

cook_dw · « **Reply #48 on:** December 20, 2021, 01:18:38 PM »

Keep in mind this is just the beginning of the cleaning of the trunk and you will more than likely see areas that still need attention but rest assured I will be going back and doing a deeper dive into the trunk over the next few nights if time allows with the holidays quickly approaching.

Photo 89 - 90 - Misc Trunk photos

cook_dw · « **Reply #49 on:** December 20, 2021, 01:23:41 PM »

My apologizes for the photo sizing issues. These trunk photos have too much detail in them for me to keep them at their normal size for the restriction of the forum so the size had to suffer.

Photo 91 - 92 - Misc Trunk

cook_dw · « **Reply #50 on:** December 20, 2021, 01:43:31 PM »

Photo 93 - 94 - Misc Trunk

cook_dw · « **Reply #51 on:** December 20, 2021, 01:44:13 PM »

Photo 95 - 96 - Misc Trunk

cook_dw · « **Reply #52 on:** December 20, 2021, 01:45:02 PM »

Photo 97 - 98 - Misc Trunk

x55cam · « **Reply #53 on:** December 24, 2021, 06:36:06 PM »

Quote from: Kelley W King on December 06, 2021, 04:31:19 PM

What did we do before evaporust?

It was Naval Jelly for me and/or a wire wheel. If you left the jelly on too long it would crust up and turned white. The results
were ok but messy to clean up.

firstgenaddict · « **Reply #54 on:** December 24, 2021, 08:52:24 PM »

the undercoat in the quarter looks exactly like the one in the NOS 67 convertible quarter in the thread on the forums.

cook_dw · « **Reply #55 on:** December 28, 2021, 12:52:12 PM »

Slid out to the garage today while the in-laws were visiting and knocked out a couple small tasks.

Photo 99 - 101 Defrost duct

cook_dw · « **Reply #56 on:** December 28, 2021, 12:53:26 PM »

Photo 102 - 104 Defrost duct

cook_dw · « **Reply #57 on:** December 28, 2021, 12:58:38 PM »

Photo 105 - 107 Gas tank before. What I originally thought was black overspray on the gas tank I had a hard reminder to double check and always question cause you will eventually make mistakes. I removed the original assembly line blackout from the gas tank. Thank you Jon for reminding about this because the details matter and although it sucks I'm glad it was me and not someone else. Ive learned from my mistake. Oh well Moving on Ill leave it clean or once I go back for a restoration I'll take care of it then. Its documented so nothing to hide. Me ignorantly removing blackout and the clamp dates and sending unit before.

cook_dw · « **Reply #58 on:** December 28, 2021, 01:00:07 PM »

Photo 108 - 110 Gas tank after

cook_dw · « **Reply #59 on:** December 28, 2021, 01:01:24 PM »

Photo 111 - 113 Tank after continued - Seq number for the car #20

cook_dw · « **Reply #60 on:** December 28, 2021, 02:55:58 PM »

Photo 114 - 116 Gas tank straps

cook_dw · « **Reply #61 on:** December 28, 2021, 02:57:01 PM »

Photo 117 - Gas tank strap hardware

Photo 118 - Strap on tank

rocco376 · « **Reply #62 on:** December 28, 2021, 08:07:44 PM »

I'd hate to see what you consider a large task. Keep up the good work!

BULLITT65 · « **Reply #63 on:** December 29, 2021, 12:17:18 AM »

Just went through the pics. Great job DW. I am thrilled you went the preservation route. Keep up the good work. 😁

hrlyfxdl · « **Reply #64 on:** December 29, 2021, 08:36:51 PM »

Sure am enjoying this thread. Hope to get my 68 restored soon, and seeing the quality of care and info. here really helps me to know what I should be asking for/looking for in my restoration. Thank you for taking the time.

cook_dw · « **Reply #65 on:** January 02, 2022, 09:25:14 PM »

Quote from: rocco376 on December 28, 2021, 08:07:44 PM

I'd hate to see what you consider a large task. Keep up the good work!

It's not that big of a project as long as you don't burn yourself out doing it.

Quote from: BULLITT65 on December 29, 2021, 12:17:18 AM

Just went through the pics. Great job DW. I am thrilled you went the preservation route. Keep up the good work. 😁

Quote from: hrlyfxdl on December 29, 2021, 08:36:51 PM

Sure am enjoying this thread. Hope to get my 68 restored soon, and seeing the quality of care and info. here really helps me to know what I should be asking for/looking for in my restoration. Thank you for taking the time.

Thanks guys.

Photo 119 - 120 Got a strip of magnet with double sided tape along with some dum dum and semi permanently mounted the dealer emblem.

cook_dw · « **Reply #66 on:** January 02, 2022, 09:26:54 PM »

Photo 121 - 122 Emblem mounted

cook_dw · « **Reply #67 on:** January 02, 2022, 09:33:35 PM »

Turned my attentions to the interior

Photo 123 - 124 - Interior after removing all parts and before cleaning.

Photo 125 - Passenger door interior before

cook_dw · « **Reply #68 on:** January 02, 2022, 09:37:48 PM »

Hard to believe this thing was a raccoon hotel a little over 3 years ago while being stored at my mothers home.

Photo 126 - 130 - Interior after cleaning

cook_dw · « **Reply #69 on:** January 02, 2022, 09:39:52 PM »

cont.

cook_dw · « **Reply #70 on:** January 02, 2022, 09:43:13 PM »

Photo 131 - Pass side door after cleaning

Photo 132 - 133 What's left of the tape covering the shock hole while being leaked tested.

Tinkerr · « **Reply #71 on:** January 02, 2022, 10:51:51 PM »

Darrel,
What is the clip attached with a single screw for? (picture 132 upper left corner of the door). I wish I had your attention to detail, good work.

cook_dw · « **Reply #72 on:** January 02, 2022, 11:16:03 PM »

Going off memory I’m pretty sure its to help with clipping of the deluxe door panel. Someone will correct me if I’m wrong.

cook_dw · « **Reply #73 on:** January 02, 2022, 11:26:29 PM »

Photo 134 - 135 - Trunk mat

cook_dw · « **Reply #74 on:** January 02, 2022, 11:29:09 PM »

Photo 136 - 138 - Driver rear side marker light installed

cook_dw · « **Reply #75 on:** January 02, 2022, 11:32:06 PM »

Photo 139 - 141 - Passenger rear side marker light installed

cook_dw · « **Reply #76 on:** January 02, 2022, 11:35:25 PM »

Photo 142 - 144 - Misc trunk photos

cook_dw · « **Reply #77 on:** January 02, 2022, 11:39:16 PM »

Photo 145 - 147 - Misc trunk

cook_dw · « **Reply #78 on:** January 04, 2022, 01:05:53 PM »

148 - 150 - Reinstalled tail light housings

cook_dw · « **Reply #79 on:** January 04, 2022, 01:07:40 PM »

151 - 153 - Clamps sending unit to main fuel line. Note black spray from blackout of tank.

cook_dw · « **Reply #80 on:** January 04, 2022, 01:12:02 PM »

154 - 156 - Screws for the fill tube ring and flange. These were NOT re-zinc'd. Only cleaned.

cook_dw · « **Reply #81 on:** January 04, 2022, 01:13:48 PM »

157 - 158 - Trunk front corners

cook_dw · « **Reply #82 on:** January 04, 2022, 01:16:32 PM »

159 - 160 - Trunk, Pass qtr, Drvr qtr date codes T49, H48, H4? (0, 2, 3, 6, 9)

cook_dw · « **Reply #83 on:** January 04, 2022, 01:17:27 PM »

161 - 162 Dash face after #7 application

cook_dw · « **Reply #84 on:** January 04, 2022, 01:25:33 PM »

163 - 165 - Glovebox and tire pressure decal

cook_dw · « **Reply #85 on:** January 04, 2022, 03:39:28 PM »

While Im adding photos this morning here is the top of dash as you can see the texture that is applied and the break lines.

Photo 166 - 168 - Top of dash suede finish

cook_dw · « **Reply #86 on:** January 04, 2022, 03:40:24 PM »

Lasts ones for today. More interior and trunk before cleaning.

Photo 169 - 171 - Interior and trunk before

cook_dw · « **Reply #87 on:** January 05, 2022, 05:28:46 PM »

Not certain if this is original spray on the heater box cover but its consistent all over it and the blower motor.

Photo 172 - 173 - Heater box cover and blower motor before cleaning

cook_dw · « **Reply #88 on:** January 05, 2022, 05:30:45 PM »

Photo 174 - 175 - Cover and motor after

I will probably go at the cover with thinner or reducer once I can confirm this isn't original. We don't need another gas tank mishap..

cook_dw · « **Reply #89 on:** January 05, 2022, 05:34:39 PM »

Photo 176 - 177 - Closeups of date & part number

cook_dw · « **Reply #90 on:** January 05, 2022, 05:39:51 PM »

Photo 178 - Fastener blower motor

Up next is the heater assembly inner. I'll have a follow up with details of the blower coil and bracket as well as floor duct.

Photo 179 - 181 - Assembly before cleaning.

Note the #7 on the box. The tank had 20. mixing of assembly parts as they don't really matter as long as its a non big block or A/C. Idk what it is at this point but documenting it nontheless..

cook_dw · « **Reply #91 on:** January 05, 2022, 05:41:30 PM »

Photo 182 - 185 - After cleaning

The inner box does have that textured finish like the dash top to note as well. And yes I do plan to soak it.

cook_dw · « **Reply #92 on:** March 08, 2022, 01:40:37 PM »

Been pretty stagnant here on the preservation but I was able to snag a correct dated jack assembly (Thanks Sport!) and also a used trunk mat which I will be picking up this weekend.

Photo 186 - Trunk mat

cook_dw · « **Reply #93 on:** March 08, 2022, 01:41:17 PM »

Photo 187 - 188 - Jack assembly

Gars68Tux · « **Reply #94 on:** March 09, 2022, 08:45:41 AM »

I take it the car had a deluxe interior, Darrell ? I didn't catch the cowl tag. Curious what other options (RPO's) you've noted...

cook_dw · « **Reply #95 on:** March 09, 2022, 01:01:14 PM »

Yes deluxe interior. If you look back at photos 87-88 you will see the insulating pad that's placed in the trunk for trunk matted cars. Here is the trim tag. As far as options go it's not much. U63, Z28-2 (Cowl Plenum), J50, & J52.

hrlyfxdl · « **Reply #96 on:** March 09, 2022, 03:31:13 PM »

I sure am enjoying this guided thread through this rebuild, it's going to be so helpful once I dig into mine. Thanks again for keeping this going.

Gars68Tux · « **Reply #97 on:** March 09, 2022, 06:08:17 PM »

Quote from: cook_dw on March 09, 2022, 01:01:14 PM

Yes deluxe interior. If you look back at photos 87-88 you will see the insulating pad that's placed in the trunk for trunk matted cars. Here is the trim tag. As far as options go it's not much. U63, Z28-2 (Cowl Plenum), J50, & J52.

Sparsely optioned seems to be the way the majority were. Z87 is a biggy in my book, especially on a 68!

Cowl plenum is cool one... Guess if the engine was gone, there's a good chance there may've been some headers on top of the mat too!?

cook_dw · « **Reply #98 on:** March 09, 2022, 06:56:37 PM »

idk if it came with headers or not so I don't wanna assume anything. I have a set of what I believe are Appliance or possibly Blackjack headers that are 1 3/4" primaries and 4 bolt square flange collectors that were on the car from when it was parked in the mid to late 70's. On a side note since this car was not ordered with a console and because of that no gauges, I have 2 different styles of tach and gauges to choose from. Just can't make up my mind which one to go with. I also have an NOS Mallory Double Life distributor with tach drive I will use as well. Black face SW's triple gauges were in the car when parked and I picked up the tach from a member here and the fuel pressure gauge from our own ko-lek-tor aka Bentley.

Photo 189 - Headers

Photo 190 - Black Face Stewart Warners

Photo 191 - Green Line Stewart Warners

Gars68Tux · « **Reply #99 on:** March 09, 2022, 09:22:54 PM »

Yeah, tough decision....I like the green line as it matches the OE dash pod fairly well, but sounds like the black face may be "day2" original. Maybe same with the headers.

Kinda interesting on 68Z factory installed gauges... From what I've seen, it's about 50/50%. Your thoughts? I wonder what the CRG data shows....?

cook_dw · « **Reply #100 on:** March 11, 2022, 02:52:13 PM »

Quote from: Gars68Tux on March 09, 2022, 09:22:54 PM

Yeah, tough decision....I like the green line as it matches the OE dash pod fairly well, but sounds like the black face may be "day2" original. Maybe same with the headers.

Kinda interesting on 68Z factory installed gauges... From what I've seen, it's about 50/50%. Your thoughts? I wonder what the CRG data shows....?

Idk if I'd go as far to say 50/50. I haven't looked through my data for any comparisons but my gut says 65/35. 35% with gauges but I could be off. One of the core members will have to speak on what is in their db but I can tell you it isn't always an easy task to do percentages from db's as there is always holes in the data (at least in my experience).

69Z28-RS · « **Reply #101 on:** March 11, 2022, 03:36:59 PM »

From the CRG data: http://www.camaros.org/geninfo.shtml#HowMany

RPO 1967 1968 1969 Description Option Dependencies
CODE QTY List$ DH$ QTY List$ DH$ QTY List$ DH$ Requires N/A With

U16 n/a n/a 1410 $50.00 2.70 Tachometer-availMay69) V8 (U17, U35)
(added to AIM on 20SEP68,
n/a before May 69

U17 27078 $75.00 4.00 20263 $90.00 4.80 29524 $90.00 4.80 Special instruments: V8 D55 (U57, AL4)
amp, temp, oil pressure,
fuel, clock, tach.

Official Chevrolet production records show a total of 220,906 Camaros built in 1967; 235,147 Camaros built in 1968; and 243,085 Camaros built in the last year of the first generation, 1969.

Total % for U17 are much closer to 10%....

janobyte · « **Reply #102 on:** March 11, 2022, 05:10:34 PM »

You probably already know, but you can utilize the two screws underdash (ash tray mount) for your gauge bracket. Very secure. I'll send you a pic how they mounted the tac in place of the fuel gauge,,,in 68. Very simple and I like it anyway. Lose the amp gauge, throw a 0-90 ohm fuel gauge in it's place. Just an opinion, the way I like it set up.

Green or black on you lol, I Iike the both.

cook_dw · « **Reply #103 on:** March 11, 2022, 06:06:57 PM »

Yes sir, that was the plan to mount the gauges using those screw locations. I'll probably keep the amp gauge just because that is what was in it when it came to me but I completely understand your logic. I'll most likely go black face at this point but will keep the green lines as a backup option.

janobyte · « **Reply #104 on:** March 11, 2022, 06:19:50 PM »

Black face in mine..
Also didnt spot the fuel gauge top pic,,nice

169INDY · « **Reply #105 on:** March 11, 2022, 07:05:57 PM »

Black S/W
&
Kustom Headers

Gars68Tux · « **Reply #106 on:** March 11, 2022, 08:37:09 PM »

Quote

Total % for U17 are much closer to 10%....

Was just questioning 68Z's, Gary. I know there's no official documentation on that. I do have 9% U17 on total 68 production written down in my White Book from years ago.

One would think that U17 would be more commonly ordered on performance oriented cars. Kinda surprising that many (possibly the majority) 68Z's didn't get U17. I guess the feeling was that aftermarket gauges were more accurate/precise not to mention more economical.

Gars68Tux · « **Reply #107 on:** March 11, 2022, 09:06:56 PM »

Quote from: 169INDY on March 11, 2022, 07:05:57 PM

Black S/W
&
Kustom Headers

Is yours and Darrell's car twins ??

I gotta take time to check yur build thread out closer!

169INDY · « **Reply #108 on:** March 11, 2022, 10:18:13 PM »

According to Darrell they were very close at the LOS plant, both 12 d's, If my memory serves me correctly,
I got the U17/D55 in mine.

I added the Header & A/C of RPO Z284 (For fun)

The "OLD" statistical analysis of the obtained sample groups 1967/68 dated 2006/2007 indicated:
1967 w/ gages 58%
1968 w/ gages 56%

Gars68Tux · « **Reply #109 on:** March 11, 2022, 11:07:53 PM »

Ah, was thinking yours was red as well (guess it's just the avatar), but now see it was white, red interior. Definitely siblings none the less!

Thanks for stats, although I'm not sure where they came from...

One of my childhood buddies was a Gilmore, btw LOL

cook_dw · « **Reply #110 on:** March 23, 2022, 11:44:02 AM »

Starting the long and slow process of the undercarriage cleaning. Be prepared to be underwhelmed with photos of dirty and then clean floorpans.

Photo 192 - 193 - Before Cleaning

Photo 194 - 195 - After 3rd Pass

cook_dw · « **Reply #111 on:** March 23, 2022, 11:47:16 AM »

Photo 196 - 199 - After 5th pass across area

As I said this will be a slow moving train down the tracks so I probably wont post much if any until I get the full mid section completed. And yes the plan is to pull the subframe, springs and diff out of the car but that will have to wait until I can pull the front sheetmetal as well.

169INDY · « **Reply #112 on:** March 23, 2022, 05:06:07 PM »

AWSOME!

cook_dw · « **Reply #113 on:** March 25, 2022, 12:54:03 PM »

A little more progress over the last 2 nights.. Almost have the center section of the tub getting close. Hope to dedicate some time over the weekend on some more cleaning.

Photos 200 - 203 - More of the same center section of the tub

cook_dw · « **Reply #114 on:** March 25, 2022, 01:03:34 PM »

Photos 204 - 205

cook_dw · « **Reply #115 on:** March 25, 2022, 01:04:17 PM »

Photos 206 - 207

x55cam · « **Reply #116 on:** March 28, 2022, 07:06:47 PM »

Very nice job with the underside - what process/method did you use?

cook_dw · « **Reply #117 on:** March 29, 2022, 12:32:59 PM »

Thanks, Zep citrus degreaser with a blue Scotchbrite pad and then wiping with cheapy microfiber rags and then hitting it with #7 Meguiars.

maroman · « **Reply #118 on:** March 29, 2022, 03:31:27 PM »

You forgot the most important thing, patience.

169INDY · « **Reply #119 on:** March 30, 2022, 03:29:29 AM »

Quote from: maroman on March 29, 2022, 03:31:27 PM

You forgot the most important thing, patience.

& a Neck Pillow,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,

cook_dw · « **Reply #120 on:** April 16, 2022, 10:21:33 PM »

I took some time away from laying on my back and cleaning and pulled the front clip off the car. Also shot a quickie video of ole green while I let her warm up this morning. Memories of my father flood back to me every single time I hit the key.

https://youtu.be/-7iHqDngCO4

Photos 208 - 209 - Removal of doghouse

cook_dw · « **Reply #121 on:** April 16, 2022, 10:23:14 PM »

Photo 210 - Overview and a shot of my garage helper (Stella)

cook_dw · « **Reply #122 on:** April 20, 2022, 05:27:02 PM »

Last night I spent a few hours working on removing the black overspray off the top of the cowl and tulip areas. Word of advice, if you still have any MEK make sure you have whatever you are working on in a well ventilated area as you are gonna burn some brain cells.. I almost felt a buzz afterward and I had fans going in the garage. Either way it worked sorta well but I am going to try oven cleaner next. If you have any experience and success with spray bomb removal chime in as I am open to suggestions.

Photo 211 - Pass tulip before removal

Photo 212 - After a few attempts at removal

Photo 213 - Plug removal showing original white for the white out for the stripes

Photo 214 - Upper cowl after a few passes with MEK and a scotchbrite pad and a few with 800 grit paper.

Photo 215 - Fan shroud after cleaning. There was a ton of overspray on it and I still see spots I missed but I needed to "tap out" for the night and called it for now. Will show done done photos once I'm done done.. lol

maroman · « **Reply #123 on:** April 20, 2022, 06:01:27 PM »

I use cold oven cleaner for engines, but it usually takes off the paint. Be careful. Sure hope you are using gloves too as MEK will soak into your skin. I have been using it on a hundred year old car, has factory paint with a preservative brushed on top. It's the only thing I have found that will take this crap off without ruining the original enamel.

mls68z28 · « **Reply #124 on:** April 21, 2022, 02:37:22 PM »

Hi,if you need a gas tank filler neck hose,cut to fit,let me know,,,Mitchell

cook_dw · « **Reply #125 on:** April 22, 2022, 11:49:32 AM »

I appreciate the offer but I good friend just located an original one for me just the other night. Thanks

cook_dw · « **Reply #126 on:** May 03, 2022, 12:56:39 PM »

Some progression although slow it is moving forward. Needed to continue with firewall cleaning and removal of old black spray bomb paint so I pulled the steering column, e-brake assembly and master, metering valve and distribution block for cleaning.

Photo 216 - Original e-brake assembly after removal

cook_dw · « **Reply #127 on:** May 03, 2022, 12:59:53 PM »

Photo 217 - 219 - E-brake assembly after soaking in Evaporust overnight. Also to note that the bottom tooth on the gear is also painted black as it follows the same line as the painted arm.

cook_dw · « **Reply #128 on:** May 03, 2022, 01:01:26 PM »

Next I pulled the master, metering valve and distribution block back off the car for cleaning and rebuilds.

Photo 220 - As found setup on the car.

cook_dw · « **Reply #129 on:** May 03, 2022, 01:03:22 PM »

Photo 221 - 223 - Metering valve during rebuild and after soaking in evaporust. Date on valve is either 36 or 38. Original Bendix rubber cap over rear of valve shaft.

cook_dw · « **Reply #130 on:** May 03, 2022, 01:09:20 PM »

Photo 224 - 226 - Master will have to be sent off to be sleeved. I've used White Post in the past and will most likely use them again as the last one they did came back great and they left it unrestored as I requested. Ordered a rebuild kit for the distribution block last night and Scott (Muscle Car Research) sent me an email this morning and the kit will go out today. But everything has been cleaned and soaked in Evaporust and I stuck everything back together just to not have everything laying around to get lost or misplaced. Cast date on master is D1.

cook_dw · « **Reply #131 on:** May 03, 2022, 09:52:50 PM »

Photo 227 - 229 - Cleaned the master lid.

cook_dw · « **Reply #132 on:** May 15, 2022, 02:11:40 AM »

Received my distribution block rebuild kit from Musclecar Research a couple weeks ago and got it rebuilt. However upon installing the new seat; it failed to hold and pushed past the resting shoulder and became useless. Maybe I wasn't holding my mouth right when installing it but I pulled the new now damaged seat and reinstalled the old seat and it tightened up just like it should so that issue was corrected. Sorry I failed to get photos of the new o-rings on the piston but you get the idea as far as that goes.

Photos 230 - 233 - Removal of seat and piston in distribution block

cook_dw · « **Reply #133 on:** May 15, 2022, 02:15:11 AM »

Photos 234 - 236 - Springs, piston o-rings and old seat reinstalled and then distribution block treated with a little RPM (Rust Prevention Magic)

cook_dw · « **Reply #134 on:** May 15, 2022, 02:19:36 AM »

Next on the multitude of things to do I decided to clean up the e-brake cable to go along with the e-brake assembly I previously cleaned.

Photos 237 - 239 - Before cleaning of e-brake cable

cook_dw · « **Reply #135 on:** May 15, 2022, 02:22:12 AM »

Photos 240 - 243 - Cable after cleaning. BTW the wet look on the cable is the RPM that hasn't dried yet.

cook_dw · « **Reply #136 on:** May 15, 2022, 02:26:24 AM »

Last thing for today was to get the kick panels cleaned up and ready to be installed once the time comes.

Photos 244 - 245 - Panels before cleaning

cook_dw · « **Reply #137 on:** May 15, 2022, 02:32:10 AM »

Photo 246 - Panels after cleaning

cook_dw · « **Reply #138 on:** May 15, 2022, 02:33:15 AM »

Photo 247 - 248 _ Couple of detail shots

cook_dw · « **Reply #139 on:** May 24, 2022, 03:42:59 PM »

Photos 249 - 250 - Original calipers before teardown and cleaning.

Photo 251 - Results of bracket line brackets and lines after cleaning. These are original finishes. Nothing was rezinc'd or refinished.

cook_dw · « **Reply #140 on:** May 24, 2022, 03:45:27 PM »

Photos 252 - 254 - Calipers after cleaning. I did have to buy new pad pins as the originals were MIA as noted in previous photo as someone had installed a nail in place of one of them in the cars past. I will have to send these out as 2 of the 8 bores are pitted so stainless sleeves will be needed. Note black paint still present on the rears of the calipers.

cook_dw · « **Reply #141 on:** June 09, 2022, 02:30:27 AM »

Photo 255 - 257 - Finally got the master back from White Post and I assembled the components.

cook_dw · « **Reply #142 on:** June 09, 2022, 02:33:10 AM »

Next I decided to bounce back and clean up the cowl panel & wiper transmission.

Photo 258 - 259 - Panel & linkage before cleaning.

cook_dw · « **Reply #143 on:** June 09, 2022, 02:37:21 AM »

Photo 260 - 263 - After cleaning, Meguiars #7, wet sanding with 2K, Meguiars 105 & 205, and Meguiars #7 again.

cook_dw · « **Reply #144 on:** June 09, 2022, 02:40:49 AM »

Photo 264 - 266 - screws, squirters and cowl seal added after they were cleaned.

cook_dw · « **Reply #145 on:** June 09, 2022, 02:44:24 AM »

Photo 267 - 270 - Lastly are details on the wiper transmission linkage after cleaning.

cook_dw · « **Reply #146 on:** June 09, 2022, 02:47:51 AM »

Photo 271 - 274 - Details continued. Cleaning consisted of citrus cleaner, evaporust, Meguiars #7 & Rust Prevention Magic (RPM).

cook_dw · « **Reply #147 on:** June 22, 2022, 10:21:15 PM »

Small update. Thanks to Jose for hooking me up with an early shifter assembly along with a handle. Here’s one before before photos

Photo 275 - 276 - As received before cleaning.

Photo 277 - 278 - After Cleaning and greasing/rebuilding.

cook_dw · « **Reply #148 on:** June 22, 2022, 10:26:45 PM »

One other quick purchase to note is a vintage Mallory Rev Limiter. Stay tuned as more to come!!

Photo 279 - 280 - Mallory Rev Limiter

cook_dw · « **Reply #149 on:** June 26, 2022, 07:58:02 PM »

Although the weather down here in TN wasn’t the best to hang out in the garage for long periods of time I was able to get a couple more items marked off the list.

Photo 281 - Driveshaft after cleaning but before soaking in evaporust.

Photo 282 - 283 - Yoke after removing from shaft.

Photo 284 - Broke out the pvc pipe to soak the shaft while the yoke was soaked in a smaller container as well as the original u joint.

cook_dw · « **Reply #150 on:** June 26, 2022, 08:04:06 PM »

Photo 285 - Driveshaft after soaking and reinstalling yoke.

Photo 286 - 288 - Yoke after soaking and during rebuild of u-joint. Absolutely zero play in the cups and no wear in the needles or cups. Unfortunately I wasn’t so lucky on the diff side joint so I will source a new grease-able one from a local parts house.

cook_dw · « **Reply #151 on:** June 26, 2022, 08:35:40 PM »

Now for some driveshaft marking details.

Photo 289 - 292 - What’s left of the white stripe, then oddly enough what appears to be remnants of a stenciled part number but unable to make it out completely and then at the end of the stencil is the remains of the orange stripe.

cook_dw · « **Reply #152 on:** June 26, 2022, 08:38:41 PM »

Photo 293 - 295 - Additional photos of stencil

cook_dw · « **Reply #153 on:** June 26, 2022, 08:43:53 PM »

Last thing for today are the front brake lines and clips that had black overspray on them and surprisingly it saved them from pitting and corrosion.

Photo 296 - Crossover brake line to the passenger side front and the drivers side front line. Sorry no photos of before paint removal.

Photo 297 - 299 - Clips and bolts before removal of paint showing detail of stamped “3” and then after cleaning.

cook_dw · « **Reply #154 on:** June 26, 2022, 09:01:53 PM »

Photo 300 - 302 - close ups of the brake lines.

cook_dw · « **Reply #155 on:** June 28, 2022, 11:53:07 AM »

Small update overnight. Pulled the main fuel line and gave it a good once over.

Photo 303 - 305 - Fuel line before cleaning

cook_dw · « **Reply #156 on:** June 28, 2022, 11:57:03 AM »

As you can tell that line looked pretty cruddy but with a little pedestal mounted grinder with a wire wheel and hitting the whole line with Wenol Blue and Red metal compounds made it come out decent enough for this ole hunk of junk.

Photo 306 - 309 - Details of fuel line after cleaning

David K · « **Reply #157 on:** June 30, 2022, 01:55:23 AM »

Way cool! What did you use to clean the driveshaft?

KurtS · « **Reply #158 on:** June 30, 2022, 02:52:47 AM »

That line turned out great!

mgreenz · « **Reply #159 on:** June 30, 2022, 03:32:16 AM »

I’m blown away. Best thread of 2022.

cook_dw · « **Reply #160 on:** June 30, 2022, 12:10:27 PM »

Thanks guys.

Quote from: David K on June 30, 2022, 01:55:23 AM

Way cool! What did you use to clean the driveshaft?

4" pvc, pvc cap, and evaporust.

Couple of things when soaking driveshafts is #1 make sure to keep an eye on it and not to let it sit in there too long. And #2 when wiping down after soaking pay special attention to where markings are because you will wipe them off if you touch them while they are still wet. I've done 4 or 5 shafts now and the 1st one I done I lost all the markings but thankfully had photos prior to doing so.

Quote from: mgreenz on June 30, 2022, 03:32:16 AM

I’m blown away. Best thread of 2022.

I wouldn't go that far but thank you nonetheless.

cook_dw · « **Reply #161 on:** June 30, 2022, 12:19:41 PM »

Finally the last of the hard lines to clean which is the main brake line. Same process of wire wheel grinder & Wenol blue & red compounds.

Photo 310 - 311 - Main brake line before cleaning

Some reason website isn't allowing me to upload another photo.. Hopefully it's just something I am doing.

cook_dw · « **Reply #162 on:** June 30, 2022, 02:41:23 PM »

Photo 312 Main line before cleaning

cook_dw · « **Reply #163 on:** June 30, 2022, 02:42:30 PM »

Photo 313 - 315 - After cleaning and polishing using Wenol

cook_dw · « **Reply #164 on:** June 30, 2022, 02:51:34 PM »

Photo 316 - 317 - All hardlines are now preserved.

maroman · « **Reply #165 on:** June 30, 2022, 02:55:32 PM »

Is Wenol your preservative for protection? Are you clearing them to protect? I am impressed with your patience and ability.

cook_dw · « **Reply #166 on:** June 30, 2022, 04:50:26 PM »

Mainly cleaning. I will either use RPM (Rust Preventative Magic) or Rust Veto (Cosmoline Aerosol) for the protection once its time to reinstall the lines. And thank you, not sure its much ability vs just cutting up the project into small bite size sections to work through the madness. I'm just a dumb hillbilly that likes trying to preserve old junk.

David K · « **Reply #167 on:** July 01, 2022, 01:56:01 AM »

If I pay for shipping and send cookies, you’ll do my lines and driveshaft right?

cook_dw · « **Reply #168 on:** July 05, 2022, 06:12:09 PM »

Sorry not for hire.

Moving forward I was had a couple hours yesterday free so I went ahead and pulled the sub before it got too miserable outside and before I had to get the grass cut.

Photo 318 - Subframe upon initial removal

Photo 319 - 320 - Frame after a quick pressure wash with no cleaners

cook_dw · « **Reply #169 on:** July 05, 2022, 06:15:41 PM »

Photo 321 - 322 - Close up photos of the firewall and toe boards

cook_dw · « **Reply #170 on:** July 05, 2022, 06:16:10 PM »

Photo 323 - 324 - No signs of tape on the subframe to body bolt holes. But previously noted tape still in and around rear shock holes.

rich69rs · « **Reply #171 on:** July 05, 2022, 07:17:29 PM »

Just out of curiosity - what condition were the sub frame mounting bolts in?

Back when I removed mine in 2004 they were in pretty sorry/corroded condition. I had soaked them in penetrating fluid for several hours prior to trying to remove them. They did come free without breaking but were heavily corroded. Looks like yours must have come out without too much trouble.

Great thread

Richard

cook_dw · « **Reply #172 on:** July 05, 2022, 09:25:51 PM »

Funny you should ask. I just pulled them from soaking overnight. I have hosed them down with PB Blaster silicone spray to keep them hydrated for now.

Photo 325 - Subframe bolts bushings

Photo 326 - Misc clips & bolts from brake & fuel lines

Tinkerr · « **Reply #173 on:** July 06, 2022, 12:40:03 AM »

Darrell,

Does the subframe bolt with washer that has the notch cut out go in a specific location, serve a purpose? I had one in my bucket of bolts thought it was a manufacturers fluke.

cook_dw · « **Reply #174 on:** July 06, 2022, 11:51:39 AM »

Quote from: Tinkerr on July 06, 2022, 12:40:03 AM

Darrell,

Does the subframe bolt with washer that has the notch cut out go in a specific location, serve a purpose? I had one in my bucket of bolts thought it was a manufacturers fluke.

I do not believe it serves a purpose. It was in the pass side front mounting location. If I had to guess probably a manufacturer tooling issue when the washers were stamped.

Not much in the way of progress overnight but I did get the accelerator pedal, clutch rod & some additional bolts (& nuts) soaked. Also cleaned all the ground straps and bolts for them.

Photo 237 - Pedal before cleaning

Photo 238 - 239 - Pedal and clutch rod after soaking (sorry failed to grab a before of the rod but it was rusty with black spray bomb on a portion of the rod exposed to the engine compartment)

cook_dw · « **Reply #175 on:** July 06, 2022, 11:59:16 AM »

Photo 240 - 243 - Ground straps and bolts (for the record I have not confirmed if these engine ground straps are correct as they seem long but they can be place holders for now. Frame to body strap is correct)

cook_dw · « **Reply #176 on:** July 06, 2022, 12:01:45 PM »

Photo 244 - Nuts that hold the booster to firewall, clutch & brake assembly (and steering column to dash), clutch boot, pivot mount bolts and accelerator lever bolt. All are wet due to being sprayed down with silicone lubricant

Also want to say it once again that none of these components have been or will be refinished. All this is just cleaning and preserving.

NAPA68 · « **Reply #177 on:** August 28, 2022, 10:11:19 PM »

Any updates Darrell? As you can imagine, I love your processes.

Tim

cook_dw · « **Reply #178 on:** August 29, 2022, 01:41:22 PM »

Updates? Gonna sell everything I own and moving to Wyoming or Montana. Writing my manifesto now.

Tinkerr · « **Reply #179 on:** August 29, 2022, 09:35:43 PM »

I hear Montana is beautiful, remote and parts are devoid of people. To some that's a positive, with me the jury is still out.

cook_dw · « **Reply #180 on:** September 14, 2022, 01:05:07 PM »

Decided to take advantage of some downtime at the house and work on removing heavy spray-bomb off the firewall area. I did not get very far in the 4 hours I spent but I think there is some noticeable improvements. A concoction of lacquer thinner, xylene and some blue Scotchbrite pads allowed me to work the area without going too far (for the most part) without getting into the original firewall finish. And sorry Tim if my humor missed the mark on the Montana/manifesto remarks..

Photo 245 - The before shot of the worked area

Photos 246 - 248 - After some removal and hydration with #7

cook_dw · « **Reply #181 on:** October 07, 2022, 01:53:48 PM »

Photo 249 - Original voltage regulator before clean up. I used lacquer cleaner to remove overspray and then polished original finish back to a shine or to the best it could be.

cook_dw · « **Reply #182 on:** October 07, 2022, 01:55:15 PM »

Photo 250 - 252 - Finished product

Z282NV · « **Reply #183 on:** October 07, 2022, 03:35:30 PM »

What a great job you are doing. I must admit if I was doing this it would be difficult for me to hold back and refinish some of these parts.
I am assuming you are replacing some of the rubber parts and gaskets etc if they are cracked, torn or degraded.

cook_dw · « **Reply #184 on:** October 07, 2022, 03:59:36 PM »

Thank you. Yes unfortunately there will be some items that will have to be replaced.

cook_dw · « **Reply #185 on:** November 29, 2022, 03:57:08 PM »

Haven't updated this thread in a little while. Frankly just been busy with life and other projects and selling parts. I did start polishing the windshield and back glass trim.

Photo 353 - 354- Before starting the polishing process.

cook_dw · « **Reply #186 on:** November 29, 2022, 03:59:18 PM »

Photo 354 - Mid progress of lower windshield trim. I use an 8" (2 actually butted together) stitched cotton polishing wheels on a pedestal mounted bench grinder along with green polishing compound.

cook_dw · « **Reply #187 on:** November 29, 2022, 04:01:33 PM »

Photo 355 - 356 - 1 step of the polishing is now complete.

cook_dw · « **Reply #188 on:** November 29, 2022, 04:04:15 PM »

Photo 357 - All trim now done with step one of polishing. Next will be evaluating any shadowing, dings and remaining scratches and moving to a final polishing compound on the buffing wheel and I will finalize it with some hand applied of Wenol paste polish.

FRANKTHECRANK · « **Reply #189 on:** December 03, 2022, 10:59:01 PM »

Great thread. I have obviously seen many "restorations" and "modifications" when talking about working on old Camaros, (or any old vehicle or item)...but now I have heard of, and am a fan of "Preservations".

cook_dw · « **Reply #190 on:** December 13, 2022, 03:13:11 PM »

Thanks.

Small update.

Photos 357 - 358 - Before comparison on the left side and the right side after applying some citrus cleaner allowing it to soak before removal.

cook_dw · « **Reply #191 on:** December 13, 2022, 03:15:18 PM »

359 - 361 - after some additional cleaning but before Meguiar's #7 application

cook_dw · « **Reply #192 on:** December 13, 2022, 03:16:19 PM »

362 - 364 -#7 applied

cook_dw · « **Reply #193 on:** December 13, 2022, 03:18:10 PM »

365 - 367 - #7 continued. Still a lot of cleaning to go but baby steps in the process.

cook_dw · « **Reply #194 on:** December 14, 2022, 06:35:25 PM »

Slowly chipping away on the firewall as well.. This has been the worst and hardest process to deal with. Removal of overspray without damaging the original finish. I have been working with everything from Xylene to lacquer thinner to just citrus degreaser to wet sanding to blue and green Scotchbrite pads to rags. I have even busted out the razor blade and had some success with that method as well. I have ordered some plastic razor blades which should be here before Christmas so I hope to have plenty to work on while on my break and hopefully have some decent updates for the thread.

Photo 368 - Firewall as found

Photo 369 - Progress to this point.

I am struggling with the reality of having bare metal on the firewall due to overspray removal and I might consider air brushing in some black into the bare areas but I am not going to jump into any decisions just yet. I have time before any thing needs to be done.

cook_dw · « **Reply #195 on:** December 16, 2022, 04:21:57 PM »

Photo 370 - 371 - More photos of the driver side rear footwell. Still more cleaning required but showing potential.

cook_dw · « **Reply #196 on:** December 19, 2022, 02:04:52 PM »

Roughly 3 days at around 8hrs total of cleaning over the weekend I managed to get the rear floor tubs cleaned along with the remainder of the tunnel. I still need to go back over the pass side forward of the seatbelt retainer but other than that and a few touch-ups here and there I hope to either move back to the firewall and then sub so I can get that back under the car and then begin on the rear of the car.

Photo 372 - Rear tubs before cleaning. Not sure if there is a difference in Texas dirt and TN but this was very compacted. I found success with soaking it down with my favorite citrus degreaser and then gently peeling of the layers with a razorblade on the flat surfaces making sure not to damage the original finish.

cook_dw · « **Reply #197 on:** December 19, 2022, 02:07:57 PM »

Photo 373 - 376 - After removing the majority of the dirt with the blade I hit the surfaces again with degreaser and then gave it a work over with a blue Scotchbrite pad. Once the surface was bare and clean I then coated it with Meguiar's #7.

cook_dw · « **Reply #198 on:** December 19, 2022, 02:09:16 PM »

Photos 377 - 379 - Finished product - I still need to go back and hit the pass side front tub in the photo with the red arrow.

jwbavalon · « **Reply #199 on:** December 19, 2022, 08:11:24 PM »

What great progress in less than 13 months.

Merry Christmas

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Author Topic: Preservation of a 68 Camaro (Read 27107 times)