L78 M22 pacer - some firewall shots.

[firstgenaddict]

Here are some shots of the firewall on the pacer I am doing for Bergy - Bruce. It's a L78 M22 3.73  endura bumper pacer bought new in Ct. and drag raced early in it's life.
This is going to go together quickly, as the engine trans subframe rear end, top frame, dash cluster, glass mechanisms and etc are restored and ready to go - I believe he has the seats covered as well.

[firstgenaddict]

couple more -
I had to turn the lights in the booth off to get a decent shot of the transition...

[169INDY]

If is not bad form for me to ask What product do you prefer for the body joint sealing, ?

[firstgenaddict]

I use 3M Fast and Firm  Beige - it looks exactly like the factory and tools nearly identically. I take a chip brush dip it in lacquer thinner and drag it through the bead I lay down. You cannot be slow and timid... get on with the job and it will come out correct, the slower you are the worse it will look. I also look at the original photos so I get the order correct - down from the top of the cowl at the sides, and then mid firewall under the cowl tag to the fender mount, then from the pass side fender mount on firewall face across to the middle with a curved end where it crosses the drivers side.

[169INDY]

OH Got it, I have had that very problem, Messing with it I like the Thinner Tip that would help the lubricity and encourage flow and smoothness.

Thanks for sharing.

Jim

[bergy]

James is an artist AND an engineer.  Rare combination of skill sets - perfect for restoring these cars :-)

[cook_dw]

As always amazing work.

[ric1969]

   I'm a big fan of James work and his knowledge awesome stuff.

[Edgemontvillage]

Details look great James, nice work.

[70L34]

Nice details.

[69Z28-RS]

What prep work was done to the body that removed the original seam sealer?   Was it blasted or dipped or ??

[firstgenaddict]

I scraped all of the seam sealer out to kill the rust in the seam - then blasted the seam - etched it to remove the rust in the pits then - neutralized - then 1:1 epoxy sealed everything -
Most of the photos will not load here as they are too large (bit wise) to put up more than one or two per post.

Here is a link to the thread Bruce started on Yenko.net
https://www.yenko.net/forum/showthread.php?t=163458

I sectioned in the dash through the first two slots in the speaker grille and through the defroster ducts.




This shows the state of the seam just prior to seam sealing it.













Testing techniques to match the satin Chrome finish of the top catches - sunvisor mounts
I think I nailed it...


Original header molding with satin break line


Heater box with original markings -


Restored -

[69Z28-RS]

Thanks for the details...     ..  VERY nice work!

[firstgenaddict]

Some more -- wiper orange and dash texture -
I put the same "problems" in the restoration as the original - finger marks etc
Chipped the paint out of the vin because the original is stamped after paint  and is chipped.

[RichSS2006]

Can't wait to stop by and see this one.

[JohnDS]

Impressive detailing work James!

Couple of questions:

- For the Conv. Top Latch Catch, satin chrome finish. What did you use to achieve this finish?

- For the top of dash, I understand the original finish suede, flat. Is this the same as the under dash heater box finish?
  Any tips on how to achieve this with the suede additive without having it come out too grainy looking?

Your contributions are tremendously helpful to others striving to replicate factory correct appearances.

Thanks!

John
SR71 -at- comcast.net

[firstgenaddict]

JohnDS,
The frosted look is achieved by using 20# of air pressure in a blast cabinet with recycled crushed bottle glass as the medium.
IT takes a little while to get my technique right(dusting from about 8-10" away) in achieving the correct look and of course the air pressure is highly dependent on the size of the orifice on the nozzle.

RE: textured paint
Yes the texture is the same as the heater box inside. If I feel it appears like the texture has too much "grit"- I shoot a coat or two of black without the texture but with flattener added in order to "fill" some of the texture.

James

[william]

I have seen rubber cement goobered over the cowl VIN stamp, same stuff used on the foam pads.

[Sauron327]

I have used SEM texture paint in quarts, not aerosol, and reduce accordingly to achieve the texture desired, then topcoat. Last year my good friend Chuck Fisher (a few of his over 50 car collection has been in Hot Rod) supplied me with Restoration Shop texture paint to shoot the blackout on one of his Ranchero Hoods. They were textured unlike Mustang hood blackout. Produced a nice consistent finish. Seam sealer is a matter of preference. I use 1K and 2K and many produce various results depending on how it is tooled and wiped with lacquer thinner or wax and grease remover. Lost track of how many tubes I've burned through in 40 years. Have fun.

[69Z28-RS]

I have seen rubber cement goobered over the cowl VIN stamp, same stuff used on the foam pads.

William?  WHY would someone put rubber cement over the cowl VIN stamp?   Was it an attempt to prevent rust where the vin was stamped???   Does it work?

[william]

Probably a crude attempt at rustproofing. Up here in the rust belt, didn't work very well.

[firstgenaddict]

Conv alignment wedges


disassembled and cleaned the contacts in the original column ignition switch



cleaned original ducts

original A pillar moldings cleaned all traces of dirt from the grain

same with the dash grab handle - which was so grimy and sticky it looked like it had honey on it.

original door glass regulators cleaned and gearboxes relubed

kick panel sealer... I doubt you could use too much


Pinchweld sealer tape - for well trim.


Glass in and aligned everything works so smoothly.


Top frame on and 98% aligned and working smoothly




cylinders in - since rotated 180 degrees - (fittings were pointed wrong)


Dash mat (firewall pad) fitted along with re-bushed and lubed pedal box.

[Tinkerr]

James, what did you use to clean the goo from the grab handles? Thanks

[firstgenaddict]

I used Scrubbing Bubbles stuff that turns colors when it's done working - and a new stiff tooth brush which I heat the shank and bend the head about 75 degrees - Work in small circles with not a lot of pressure -   
I also use a sonic care tooth brush which I bought just to clean interior parts... it works incredibly for small difficult to reach areas.
Then I will use Sprayaway aerosol window cleaner   - Spray away and a tooth brush is my go to for first attempt at cleaning anything in the interior -


 

[janobyte]

"Autograph your work with excellence"

Prime example👍

[bobs69z]

Great pics!!  And great work!! 

[firstgenaddict]

Here is how I bend a tooth brush and how I hold it... it allows application of light pressure on the head and by using small circular patterns both clock wise and anti clock wise you can really clean very well.

Light pressure allows the ends of the bristles to get into the grain and work, heavy pressure rolls the ends of the bristles over and negates their ability to "pick" dirt out of the recesses.

[firstgenaddict]

A few more of the firewall from inside and also the header molding satin finish break line.

[uscrichter]

I'm curious, what do the letters/numbers represent just above the heater box on the firewall in the engine compartment? I had found numbers as I was bead blasting my firewall recently, but not sure what they represent? By the way nice job of keeping them looking obscure as they were underneath the factory blackout and barley show through.   

[firstgenaddict]

Found on this firewall were M22 ZL2 Z22 N10 D80 and WHITE.
ALSO above the heaterbox there could be the sequence number for the chevrolet side of operations- which is also on the heaterbox and the fuel tank (22 is on this car's heaterbox, didn't see a 22 on the firewall)

[firstgenaddict]

Firewall and cowl going together...

[firstgenaddict]

Drivers Windshield header detail...


Original rad support dated 7th week.


Converted std watershields to DLX version with plastic "cups" for the DLX door handle releases


Building up the rad support with wiring, vacuum hoses, and HL washer hoses.


Pass side of rad support


Drivers side of rad support -- will be changing the HL harness plug to original brown ones.


Mated the subframe and the body up.


trans and floors.

[70z28lt1]

Is your fan on backwards??

[firstgenaddict]

Is your fan on backwards??

It is, the engine trans sub frame assembly was delivered to me as pictured.

[70z28lt1]

That's funny!  Maybe even work better!  Hidden 5 HP.

[Dusk Blue Z]

Thanks for the detail pictures of the RS equipment on the core support. I'll reference those when I build out my Z10.

Mike

[firstgenaddict]

More photos of the pacer -
I replated the shifter levers gold dichromate - The RS hoses are not all correct colors the actuator hose should be orange striped - so I changed it.
Striped the drive shaft -

NOALOX is what I use on all electrical connections and grounds.
The tail lamp housings are often distorted so I heat them in some boiling water then clamp them into position and set it with cold water.