Dwell Meters

[Henry Cloutier]

So I'm curious here. I've never used a dwell meter, have always just gapped points in the middle of the range specified. If I were to decide to go by dwell and not gap is there a meter that is reliable and accurate these days? I've read where two meters on the same installation give up to a 5 degree difference. Is there a way to verify the accuracy of a meter? At least gapping you know you got what you set the points too.

Thanks!

Hank

[Mike S]

 For my 67 L35 the specs are 28-32 degrees. I gap at 30 degrees. I use a Bosch tune-up digital meter and also have a Sears / Penske analog tune-up meter and they register the same. The mechanical meter gives a more steady reading whereas the digital shows some very minor variances being it displays much faster than an analog gauge. 

Mike

[169INDY]

I found this at  a Swap meet years ago and then I refurbished it to working order, more modern Sears unit I bought in 80's below, but on the fly I use INNOVA 5568 Pro Digital Timing Light with Storage Case. I swear by Jerry's refurb & curve and I keep a set of points in the glove box. Checking Setting Adjust'g is part of the Fun and earning your chops with these old cars, I Love it!

[z28z11]

The demise of new tach/dwell meters kind of snuck up on me (one of those deals where when you have multiple meters, why look for a new one ?). Cruise through eBay, there are about 50 different units online, including Sun and Snap-on units, new ones and pre-owned examples. Take your pick - 

Unless you are just into nostalgic points, and love to risk getting things caught in v belts and fan blades, convert your distributor to electronic, and never worry about setting dwell again - it will remain at 30 degrees regardless of wear factors like points experience.

Regards,
Steve

[Henry Cloutier]

I agree electronic would be the way to go  except I sort of feel the need to keep the Z closer to original build. My 68 had early electronic ignition, seemed like it was a kit from Mallory (maybe) which was actually a beam/light trigger mechanism with an electronic box mounted on the fender. I put that in because I was tired of messing with the Mallory dual point distributor. Turns out the electronic ignition kit had to be replaced twice and I went back to a single point Chevy distributor. Turned out the distributor I dropped in was from a bbc and my oh my the 327 really liked it. Don't know if it was the curve or the can but WOW!
I remember the Sun testing equipment and distributor machines, seemed like they were everywhere back then. I can't help but think they are worth some money these days especially to those who know how to use them. Thanks for the input guys, not sure my course of direction just yet. I've got to clock the distributor different anyway as last time it was dropped in the adjustment window is hidden by the rear float bowl. I may just send it to Jerry and have him work his magic.

Best regards,

Hank

[z28z11]

Here's the link as we discussed several times in the past - you can keep you stock distributor, coil and wiring for appearances, but enjoy the benefits of breakerless ignition and controlled dwell. Keep your distributor advance curve that you utilize now, and eliminate changing points. Everything makes perfect sense except the price - it would only be better if it was cheaper.

https://www.lectriclimited.com/breakerless-se-electronic-ignition-conversion

Regards,
Steve

[GMAD_Van Nuys]

I was wondering how the stock distributor in the 1969 Z28 compared to the transistor unit used in the 1968 Z28 as I believe my friend's car had the original distributor and it had no problem reving it beyond 7000 rpm.

[Henry Cloutier]

Thanks for the link. The price may not be so bad if I consider changing points, condenser, rotor and cap. I haven't gone shopping for them officially yet so I'm unclear on cost. What's installed now doesn't look that old. For sure the new electronics should provide a much higher reliability than the stock stuff. I do remember always carrying the removed points, condenser, rotor in the glove box just in case one of them fried driving around.
I think the aftermarket kits I installed didn't like the heat causing failure, RPM didn't seem to impact it at all. I usually shifted @6500 since the 327 was a 2 bolt main. Anyway the electronic left me stranded twice and I finally reverted back to the point system cause I could fix it right there. Perhaps I need to reconsider...


Thanks as always,

Hank

[Henry Cloutier]

 Hi Steve,
Just wanted to say I visited the site and read the tech stuff. I've got to say I'm impressed with the system. Hall effect is used in Aircraft electrical systems and is virtually fool proof. You have converted me and will be placing a conversion kit on order.

Thanks for enlightening me!

Best Regards,

Hank

[TODD]

I'm still running stock points, seems my stock tach didn't like the Lectric-Limited breakerless setup. Consistently off on rpm.

[Henry Cloutier]

Hi Todd,

Any idea why?

Thanks,

Hank

[TODD]

Hank;
 Seems some vehicles have a problem with a breakerless without a filter? See here; http://www.camaros.org/forum/index.php?topic=8132.0. I like the stock points plus its way easier to set them up on my Sun distributor machine with points. I don't have the set-up for breakerless for my distributor machine.
Todd 

[Henry Cloutier]

Hi Todd,

Thanks for the response. As usual the potential to create a problem by modifying something in an attempt to solve another problem is present here as well. Fortunately this is not a decision I need to make today.
Good thing is the weather is supposed to fantastic today. Blue sky and 76 degrees, must be time to crank up the Z and take a drive!

Best regards,

Hank