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Author Topic: Great report on bell housing alignment and a QUESTION  (Read 5343 times)
GaryL
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gandmal
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« on: April 03, 2007, 03:07:54 PM »

Thanks for the good report Jerry M.

Since I installed my transmission and rebuilt DZ I have had a stiff operating clutch when the car is fully warmed up. When cold it works fine. Could this be an alignment issue? The block, bellhousing and tranny never met each other before I introduced them. I am pulling the drivetrain during bodywork and will check the alignment for sure now, but is stiff, sticky and hard to shift the clutch when warmed up a symptom of mis-alignment?
« Last Edit: April 03, 2007, 10:04:28 PM by GaryL » Logged

Gary

Lemans Blue X33. DZ, M20, manual steering. Only BU code rear end is original.
Jerry@CHP
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« Reply #1 on: April 03, 2007, 08:10:54 PM »

It could be but you won't know until you check everything out.  Good luck, check the pilot bearing, and input retainer too.

Jerry
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sd1968z28
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« Reply #2 on: April 03, 2007, 09:05:44 PM »

hi jerry, jason from south dakota.  picked up my engine today, looks to be in good shape with all the correct markings.  this guy had more stuff than i have ever seen in my life.  everything from a zl1 corrvette complete with alunuimum 427 to a 1942 indian both in original driver condition!!!!  and everything in between including a boneville jet car.  man to have that much money!!!!! i will try to post pic this week.
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JohnZ
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« Reply #3 on: April 04, 2007, 12:18:41 PM »

If the O.D. of the front bearing retainer (where the T/O bearing slides) is galled, or the groove on the I.D. of the T/O bearing didn't get lubed, it'll cause exactly the symptom you describe.
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GaryL
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« Reply #4 on: April 04, 2007, 07:29:48 PM »

Thanks John. You are my second verification of this. The TO bearing has a plastic collar and the instructions said no grease. I plan on checking the bellhousing alignment (I already ordered the tool) and replace the TO bearing with a greasable metal unit. The bearing retainer was good by the rebuilder of the M20.
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Gary

Lemans Blue X33. DZ, M20, manual steering. Only BU code rear end is original.
GaryL
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« Reply #5 on: April 18, 2007, 07:13:28 AM »

So I have the alignment tool now. The flywheel dowel needs to come out to use it. Can I use Vice Grips to remove it and does it need to be replaced?
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Gary

Lemans Blue X33. DZ, M20, manual steering. Only BU code rear end is original.
JohnZ
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« Reply #6 on: April 18, 2007, 05:47:32 PM »

You don't need the dowel - it was only used on the 400 and 454 (and aftermarket 383's), which needed the unbalanced flywheel indexed to the crank flange.
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GaryL
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« Reply #7 on: April 18, 2007, 10:23:25 PM »

John, my 1178 crank has the dowel.

Does GM make 2 different 403 bellhousings? The alignment tool ring is too big for mine, by about 1/32". Back to square one now. Huh
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Gary

Lemans Blue X33. DZ, M20, manual steering. Only BU code rear end is original.
JohnZ
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« Reply #8 on: April 19, 2007, 11:32:51 AM »

John, my 1178 crank has the dowel.

Does GM make 2 different 403 bellhousings? The alignment tool ring is too big for mine, by about 1/32". Back to square one now. Huh

Nope, just one 403 - the hole should be 4.684"- 4.687" in diameter.
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GaryL
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« Reply #9 on: April 19, 2007, 07:40:11 PM »

Dead nuts on John. The largest measurement I could get was 4.687"

Another question. This alignment procedure is assuming the block and transmission mating surfaces are parallel. What about that plane?
« Last Edit: April 20, 2007, 10:05:59 AM by GaryL » Logged

Gary

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TODD
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« Reply #10 on: April 27, 2007, 07:31:20 AM »

Gary;
 Did you finish alignment?
How much was the tool from Browell?
I need to check mine.

Todd
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GaryL
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« Reply #11 on: April 27, 2007, 10:07:43 AM »

I had to send the ring back to get machined. Browell machined it to 4.685". I received it yesterday and checked the alignment last night. It was right on. All done. Now I just need to get a good throwout bearing and put it back together.

Todd, email me and we can work something out if you are interested. No sense in buying one for a one time alignment. If you restore these engines on a regular basis the investment is worth it. It was about $140 with shipping.
« Last Edit: April 27, 2007, 10:09:40 AM by GaryL » Logged

Gary

Lemans Blue X33. DZ, M20, manual steering. Only BU code rear end is original.
TODD
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« Reply #12 on: April 27, 2007, 04:44:45 PM »

Gary;
 Which clutch are you using?
I'm using the Centerforce II and Centerforce thowout bearing.
Very good quality stuff.

Todd
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GaryL
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« Reply #13 on: April 28, 2007, 07:19:26 AM »

I used a Luk clutch. They are the OEM. The TO bearing is a Timken unit. I would bet that only Timken or a couple of other mfgrs. make TO bearings for everyone.
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Gary

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TODD
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« Reply #14 on: April 28, 2007, 07:55:43 AM »

Gary;
 One other question what did you use for an engine cradle when you loaded your bellhousing.
All the ones I've looked at support the back at the bellhousing flange a few are oil pan rail supported.

Todd 
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GaryL
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« Reply #15 on: April 28, 2007, 09:55:19 AM »

I used the hoist for installing the clutch, bellousing etc. I also made a cradle from a 2x6 bottom and 1x6 sides to support from the oil pan rail. The engine can sit on the ground but not on the pan. John Z gaves this recommendation for jacking up an engine in the engine bay. I used it for another purpose. Smiley
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Gary

Lemans Blue X33. DZ, M20, manual steering. Only BU code rear end is original.
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