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Author Topic: 68-69 Rally Sport Headlight Actuators  (Read 2797 times)
1968RallySport
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« on: April 01, 2007, 02:57:45 PM »

Does anyone know of a place that can rebuild the original GM vacuum actuators for the headlight doors. I have a pair of repops that the hose nipples are not positioned the same as the orignals. I was able to get the right one to work without any modifications. I had to cut the nipple on the rod end of the cannister back until it was straight for hose routing reasons. I tried to bend it to the correct angle but the cannister body started to deform. Also, does anyone know why the reproduction industry can't take an original part and copy it to the right dimensions? It seams that more often than not the repops are never fit like the originals, only close Huh
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Jerry@CHP
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« Reply #1 on: April 01, 2007, 03:53:19 PM »

Read this link, make sure you have the CHQ actuators.  They are far better than the GM units.

Jerry

http://www.camaros.org/forum/index.php?topic=626.0
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1968RallySport
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« Reply #2 on: April 01, 2007, 04:17:48 PM »

Jerry, what is CHQ?

Daryl
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1968RSZ28
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« Reply #3 on: April 01, 2007, 05:21:32 PM »

Daryl -

CHQ = Classic Headquarters:

http://www.chqreproductions.com/

You can buy their products at Rick's First Generation Camaro:

http://www.firstgen.com/

Paul
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1968RallySport
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« Reply #4 on: April 01, 2007, 06:34:56 PM »

Paul, thank you!

Daryl
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Dave69x33
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« Reply #5 on: April 06, 2007, 08:26:35 PM »

Has everyone had good luck with the repro vacuum actuators?  I purchased a set approx. size years ago during the restoration of my RS 69Z and they did not work well.  I returned them and put the originals back on the car.  I was told back at that time, the repros were not very reliable.

I would like to try a set of Rick's First Gen's actuators if most everyone has had good experience with them.

While we are on this topic, I have a unique problem with the function of my head light doors.  I must flip the Relay Switch valve from "normal" to "open" to get my head light doors to open, (which should simply hold the doors open for icy conditions) then switch the valve back to "normal" to get the doors to close.  I have double checked the hose routing on the head light switch, on the Relay Switch and on the actuators.  I tried a repro Relay Switch with no success - got same action results.

I tested my actuators by connecting a long vacuum hole direct from the intake fitting to the actuator open and close ports.  I replaced my hoses with a kit from Risk's.  I first set of hose dry cracked and leaked.

Any suggestions.
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